Someone has recently asked me whether or not I am a "Euro-beautiful" snob? Since I have frequently declared my love for Burgundy, Piedmont, Bordeaux, Rhône...etc.
Yes, I confess my love for wine coming from the former mentioned regions. However, I equally admire and has great respect for numerous producers coming from the new-world counterparts. What I often stress was, my preferences have everything to do with what Matt Kramer , famous quote of Wine of Fear or Wine of Conviction. Wine of fear refers to wine that is made based on market-calculation, in other words, wine made primary on the interest of marketplace. Wine of predictability. Wine of conviction on the hand is from man and woman that has courage to voice their beliefs, offer wine of individualistic, prized distinction above everything else. Wine that reflects it's sense of place.
Recently, I read Matt Kramer's column in Wine Spectator (probably "The" most interesting page of the entire magazine) questioning many Californian Syrah to be lack of varietal distinction. His statement later was argued by one of the famous Pinot Noir (recently into making Syrah) specialist, Adam Lee of Siduri Vineyard that those "white peppery" missing Syrah can equally be as thrilling.
For me, there are far too many guys out there are making Wine of Fear, with predictable fragrance of ripe fruits and cosmetic-enhanced new oaks sweetness. All those wines warrant one thing - "the return of sameness". There are too afraid to make something that works against the current fashion, too fearful of offending those influential critics. They trade-in the potential chance of showing their unique site to their own self expression. These days, not only did those wines reflect anything about their lands, very often, they don't even taste like their grape. So, my question is, if you like Syrah (in this case, cool-climate Syrah), why compromise a syrah that has no "pepper" notes? It's like, if you thirst for pinot noir, would you do without the pure bright berries fruit of this variety has to offer? The absent of varietal distinction, is already a deficiency.
Yes, I confess my love for wine coming from the former mentioned regions. However, I equally admire and has great respect for numerous producers coming from the new-world counterparts. What I often stress was, my preferences have everything to do with what Matt Kramer , famous quote of Wine of Fear or Wine of Conviction. Wine of fear refers to wine that is made based on market-calculation, in other words, wine made primary on the interest of marketplace. Wine of predictability. Wine of conviction on the hand is from man and woman that has courage to voice their beliefs, offer wine of individualistic, prized distinction above everything else. Wine that reflects it's sense of place.
Recently, I read Matt Kramer's column in Wine Spectator (probably "The" most interesting page of the entire magazine) questioning many Californian Syrah to be lack of varietal distinction. His statement later was argued by one of the famous Pinot Noir (recently into making Syrah) specialist, Adam Lee of Siduri Vineyard that those "white peppery" missing Syrah can equally be as thrilling.
For me, there are far too many guys out there are making Wine of Fear, with predictable fragrance of ripe fruits and cosmetic-enhanced new oaks sweetness. All those wines warrant one thing - "the return of sameness". There are too afraid to make something that works against the current fashion, too fearful of offending those influential critics. They trade-in the potential chance of showing their unique site to their own self expression. These days, not only did those wines reflect anything about their lands, very often, they don't even taste like their grape. So, my question is, if you like Syrah (in this case, cool-climate Syrah), why compromise a syrah that has no "pepper" notes? It's like, if you thirst for pinot noir, would you do without the pure bright berries fruit of this variety has to offer? The absent of varietal distinction, is already a deficiency.
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