Dionysus has particularly been kind to Tuscany over the past years. After the great success in 1997 for both Chianti regions in Firenze (Florence) and Brunello di Montalcino in Siena. The following vintage of 1999 has nothing shortcoming. Perhaps not as obvious ripeness and charm like 97s, however, 1999 was supplemented with better acid/sugar ratio and fresher aromas in comparison to some 97s, which often has the influence of (sopramaturita) surmaturite and more obvious alcohol. To many growers, 1999 is a more classical vintage, featuring both the richness and finesse. However, one should notice that, Tuscan, which stretch from Pisa to Florence, Siena to coastal Gosseto, is a vast region with different micro-climate, terraces. One cannot simply generalize the vintage, like the case in 1998, which was a difficult vintage for most of the high altitude, northern Chianti hills (altitudes ranging from 150 to 170 meters), where the long stretching heat has caused some serious drought. It was however spare for those western, southern lower altitudes Chianti regions such as Castelnuovo Berardenga (like Fattoria di Felsina, San Felice), Barberino Val d'Elsa (Isole e Olena). The early harvest on those properties also prevents them from being caught by the damaging harvest rain. In addition, 1998 also saw some world-class Merlot being made from Bolgheri (in the case of Redigaffi & Masseto). 2001 is another great vintage not to be miss by oenophne of Italian Wine. This vintage to me, combined the ripe, profoundness of 1997 and backbone, coolness of 1999. It reminded me a lot like the great 1990 vintage, seductively ripe yet with crisp acidity. 2001 start off with late spring frost, where yields were reduced. A hot summer and followed by cool September, which prolongs vegetative cycle and better accumulation of natural acidity. This is the vintage that offers both early appeal personality and at the same time posed the underlying material for future development. 2003 look to be a return to 1997, where the vintage featured extreme heat and drought-threat growing condition. Despite the impressive color, dark fruit aromas and wonderful textured, it somehow fall into that "international appeal" style. It is more blurry when terroir is concern. However, the sexy-appeal personality, will please many less patience drinker and for those that are new to Italian wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah fetch better in this vintage than say, Merlot and Sangiovese. What can I say about 2004 vintage? quoted from Tua Rita's Stefano Frascolla comment, "almost perfect, with plenty of sunshine and the right amount of rain". According to a friend who visited the estate recently told me, Tua Rita's superb Merlot - Redigaffi has achieved such a quality height that the estate was tempted to do a separate, luxury-cuvée Merlot bottling. However, in order not to further confuse the market and to push the quality envelope further for Redigaffi. Only one bottling was made. Don't miss! The following, are some brief introduction on Tuscan that one should take note when buying wine from this area.
Sangiovese is the true heart (il vero cuore) of Tuscan, which is responsible for majority of wine coming from this beautiful countryside. Chianti Classico, as we commonly known, was in fact part of the seven subzone of "Chianti". Chianti Rufina is from the hill nearer to Florence, follow by Coli Fiorentini (near San Gimigano, which produced an unique white call Vernaccia), Colli Senesi (near Siena), Colli Pisane (near Pisa), Colli Arentini (near Arezzo, which is famous for their syrah) and Montalbano. However, the finest Chianti came from Classico and Rufina. Many connoisseur considers Sangiovese to be quite similar in character with pinot noir from Burgundy, which both are very sensitive to travel and oak treatment, prefer to feature finesse as opposed to power; purity than vanillalization. I also happen to think that, by blending them with Syrah, Cabernets or Merlot. The unique tobacco-smokiness, earthiness, meaty, spicy character can easily be dominanted by those "loud" varieties. However, unlike Burgundy, which was a mono-cepage (singular variety) region, Sangiovese has been traditionally blended with Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo, and some white variety like Trebbiano and Malvasia. This mixture, which was invented by Baron Bettino Ricasoli in 1850s has gradually been evolved over the years. Today, almost no one added the white variety into Chianti blend.
I have been in the past visited this region several times starting from early 90s. I have witnessed the quality renaissance in this area. How the whole modernization begins to corrupt this traditional wine growing region. I saw winery switching old chestnut wood fermenters to temperature-controlled, stainless steel vat. Thousand of barrels squeezing into the small and mouldy Tuscan's cellars, which was of course, supplied by the French. In my early visit, growers were more interested to show me their newly concocted Sangiovese blend, which was not a surprise, blended with those familiar international grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah; They also proudly tell me how many month those wines were charged in New French oak cask (228 litre barrique), which cooperage, oak forest, degree of toastiness...blah, blah, blah. Honestly, those new found taste clearly fresher, more inviting than those occasionally oxidized, coarse, obviously sulphide, fruitless Chianti. However, I was concerned that, those new breeds seem hammer with too much of oak, lack personality and what Matt Kramer would say, "there were "international" in the same boring way that all airport, however well designed, look alike".
I must credit, Dr. NK Yong for being the person who first introduced me Isole e Olena, during then (1992 or 93?), he wrote an article on two Sangiovese based wine in the daily news paper featuring both Isole e Olena's Cepparello and Fontodi's Flaccianello della Pieve. I later persuaded an importer, Latin Asia to bring in the wine (I believe is 1990 vintage). Little did I realized, the Latino importer eventually ceased his business and ran away without paying Paolo's wine money.
I visited Paolo de Marchi in the early 90s. His property is just behind his two main plot of vineyards - Isole & Olena. As I do not drive and I am completely hopeless when I am in Tuscan. Paolo's wife, Martha was so gracious to pick me up in Florence and drive me to the estate. The early De Marchi office/warehouse/laboratory were all in one crammed facility. However, the Piedmontest Paolo (he was originated from Piedmont) was filled with passion. We spend brief time in his garage's barrel room, which he claims to be nothing, but just bunch woods. We quickly hopped into his truck and head straight to his vineyards. Paolo was among the few I visited that did not display me with his modern gadgets, instead, he is very keen to show me his vineyards, his experiment with various trellising, his clonal select for his beloved Sangiovese. During then, he was already working with University of Agriculture to develop better clonal to replace the existing, more vigorous R-10 clone for Sangiovese. Obviously, smaller berries with higher skin to juice ratio, low yield were his aim. Interestingly, when everyone one else is chasing to produce a short-path IGT super-Tuscan, masking their indigenousness variety with universal grape and charcoal (toasted oak). Over the year, I witness no change on Paolo's approach in his winemaking. His wine has always been meant for long-haul. They can be austere and formidable when young, much like those young Médoc. However, it will continue to evolved and improved in the glass. Paolo's humblest Chianti Classico is consistently among the very best Chianti in the region that is marked by unusual intensity, power and longevity. His Cepparello (cheh-pah-rel-Loh), is without doubt, one of the greatest Sangiovese in Tuscan. Profoundly rich and powerful, yet the hallmark of Sangiovese; wild berries, violet, tobacco, earthy with occasionally underbrush and game are so unmistakable. In the modern world, when wines are made to suit their reviewers. In the case of Isole e Olena, it was the wine that thought the critics how to appreciate the true potential.
Sangiovese is the true heart (il vero cuore) of Tuscan, which is responsible for majority of wine coming from this beautiful countryside. Chianti Classico, as we commonly known, was in fact part of the seven subzone of "Chianti". Chianti Rufina is from the hill nearer to Florence, follow by Coli Fiorentini (near San Gimigano, which produced an unique white call Vernaccia), Colli Senesi (near Siena), Colli Pisane (near Pisa), Colli Arentini (near Arezzo, which is famous for their syrah) and Montalbano. However, the finest Chianti came from Classico and Rufina. Many connoisseur considers Sangiovese to be quite similar in character with pinot noir from Burgundy, which both are very sensitive to travel and oak treatment, prefer to feature finesse as opposed to power; purity than vanillalization. I also happen to think that, by blending them with Syrah, Cabernets or Merlot. The unique tobacco-smokiness, earthiness, meaty, spicy character can easily be dominanted by those "loud" varieties. However, unlike Burgundy, which was a mono-cepage (singular variety) region, Sangiovese has been traditionally blended with Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo, and some white variety like Trebbiano and Malvasia. This mixture, which was invented by Baron Bettino Ricasoli in 1850s has gradually been evolved over the years. Today, almost no one added the white variety into Chianti blend.
I have been in the past visited this region several times starting from early 90s. I have witnessed the quality renaissance in this area. How the whole modernization begins to corrupt this traditional wine growing region. I saw winery switching old chestnut wood fermenters to temperature-controlled, stainless steel vat. Thousand of barrels squeezing into the small and mouldy Tuscan's cellars, which was of course, supplied by the French. In my early visit, growers were more interested to show me their newly concocted Sangiovese blend, which was not a surprise, blended with those familiar international grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah; They also proudly tell me how many month those wines were charged in New French oak cask (228 litre barrique), which cooperage, oak forest, degree of toastiness...blah, blah, blah. Honestly, those new found taste clearly fresher, more inviting than those occasionally oxidized, coarse, obviously sulphide, fruitless Chianti. However, I was concerned that, those new breeds seem hammer with too much of oak, lack personality and what Matt Kramer would say, "there were "international" in the same boring way that all airport, however well designed, look alike".
I must credit, Dr. NK Yong for being the person who first introduced me Isole e Olena, during then (1992 or 93?), he wrote an article on two Sangiovese based wine in the daily news paper featuring both Isole e Olena's Cepparello and Fontodi's Flaccianello della Pieve. I later persuaded an importer, Latin Asia to bring in the wine (I believe is 1990 vintage). Little did I realized, the Latino importer eventually ceased his business and ran away without paying Paolo's wine money.
I visited Paolo de Marchi in the early 90s. His property is just behind his two main plot of vineyards - Isole & Olena. As I do not drive and I am completely hopeless when I am in Tuscan. Paolo's wife, Martha was so gracious to pick me up in Florence and drive me to the estate. The early De Marchi office/warehouse/laboratory were all in one crammed facility. However, the Piedmontest Paolo (he was originated from Piedmont) was filled with passion. We spend brief time in his garage's barrel room, which he claims to be nothing, but just bunch woods. We quickly hopped into his truck and head straight to his vineyards. Paolo was among the few I visited that did not display me with his modern gadgets, instead, he is very keen to show me his vineyards, his experiment with various trellising, his clonal select for his beloved Sangiovese. During then, he was already working with University of Agriculture to develop better clonal to replace the existing, more vigorous R-10 clone for Sangiovese. Obviously, smaller berries with higher skin to juice ratio, low yield were his aim. Interestingly, when everyone one else is chasing to produce a short-path IGT super-Tuscan, masking their indigenousness variety with universal grape and charcoal (toasted oak). Over the year, I witness no change on Paolo's approach in his winemaking. His wine has always been meant for long-haul. They can be austere and formidable when young, much like those young Médoc. However, it will continue to evolved and improved in the glass. Paolo's humblest Chianti Classico is consistently among the very best Chianti in the region that is marked by unusual intensity, power and longevity. His Cepparello (cheh-pah-rel-Loh), is without doubt, one of the greatest Sangiovese in Tuscan. Profoundly rich and powerful, yet the hallmark of Sangiovese; wild berries, violet, tobacco, earthy with occasionally underbrush and game are so unmistakable. In the modern world, when wines are made to suit their reviewers. In the case of Isole e Olena, it was the wine that thought the critics how to appreciate the true potential.
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