Thursday, May 24, 2007

Vega Sicilia Vertical Tasting in Raffles Wine & Food Experience

I have known Pablo Álvarez, owner of the most prestigious estate of Spain, Vega Sicilia for several years. In those days, his winemaker was Mariano García, who has now become a famous flying consultant in Spain. Vega Sicilia has an historical significance in Spain rarely equaled by others. The estate dates back all the way to 1848 and the present proprietor, the Álvarez Mezquíriz family assumed control since 1982 and is currently managed by Pablo Álvarez. The new winemaker, Xavier Ausás has since continued the duties left by García in 1998.

The tasting held on February 17 at Raffles Hotel saw some 40-50 attendees. It was moderated by the famous international auction house Sotheby’s head of wine department, Serena Sutcliffe M.W. and local wine guru, Dr. NK Yong. One could effortlessly spot the differences in winemaking style between the hands of García and Ausás: the former adopting more traditional winemaking approach, crafting wines tailored for the long haul (and consequently more formidable when young) while Ausás’ winemaking leans toward modern Spain, alta expresión style (and this was especially evident with their new wine from Toro called, Pintia). Liqueur dark berries, tar in a seamless, exuberant palate, I much preferred the Alion 2001, which though was equally modern; it had better freshness and elegance resembling Burgundy. My favorite of the night was the 1976 Unico Riserva, which had very sexy and captivating sweet nose which, reminded me of vintage port. Opulent, lush and quite massive, it sported a penetrating port-like, glycerin sweetness, which was hard to resist. It was the most complete and profound wine that night yet the spine of acidity kept the palate focused and balanced. 1953 Unico Riserva has demonstrated how capable this wine can age. Still youthful on the palate, the nose was very complex, with smoked meat, cedar and distinctly more balsamic vinegar. Though less voluminous and dramatic than the 1976, it actually came across as more youthful than the former wine. Impressive. 1996 was, according to their international sales agent, Christopher Cannan, another legend in the making and may potentially join the ranks of classics such as 1968 and 1975. Let it be told that it is never an easy task to access a young Vega. Firstly, the nose was strongly influenced by the vanilla imparted by American oak. There are not many wine regions practices to age their wine in American oak, which often comes across too strong and pungent. Only Spain’s Tempranillo and Aussie’s Shiraz seem capable to absorb such wood treatment and successfully turning it into greatness. Since traditionally Spanish wines had been aged in American oak barrels, in spite of the current trend of new alta expresión producers who tend to use French oak instead, like Australia, I much prefer the traditional American oak version Spaniard as it had became part of the unique nuance of the constitution for its wine. It is like comparing Penfold’s Grange versus RWT. The later does seem to fit into conventional aspect of Australian Shiraz but rather a half-breed. Apart from the sweet vanillin aspect, I also detect tar, toffee, liqueur-dark berries, smoke and earth in the 1996 Unico Riserva. The potential of this wine could well be foretold from the textures and palate volume. The crisp acidity and mounting tannins, especially after some aeration, all bodes well to the towering future of this maiden. 1986 Unico Riserva seemed to be less consistent. One specimen came across to be “brett” influenced: leather, sweaty saddle, musty nose with a touch of licorice. The palate showcased more aged plum and balsamic, with obvious viscosity and tasted spicier than most earlier examples. The wine is neither particularly rich nor powerful. The different glass tasted later from my neighbor showed more pristine nose, with more fatness and layered texture. Could it have been overly decanted? I was far less enthusiastic with the Unico 1965 and 1942, with 1965 tasted slightly rich but overall the flavors are less penetrating than any of the former wines. It started impressively, with a complex nose of soy, earth, licorice and aged meat. Yet the palate has neither the scale nor palate staining richness like 76s and in fact, it tasted quite diluted toward the finish. Perhaps the worse show of all is the 1942, showing every sign that it is nearing its grave. More chocolatey than others and in an elegant yet soon faded palate.

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