Vintage overviewed –
The overwhelming anticipation for Bordeaux 2005 has been brewing amongst the producers, wine brokers and consumers. The media and the press are equally excited and eager to be the first to announce another so-called legendary year, or vintage of the century. Ever since the millennial year of 2000, both 2001 and 2002 hardly came close to repeating the former’s glory. 2003, though favored by most American press, failed to live up to its early hype. Many of the 2003s today have been viewed as less classical in style, and have turned out somewhat like New World’s Californian cabernets – which explain why they are currently struggling to sustain the high price they once commanded initially.
I for one have never been a fan of 2003 Bordeaux. The intense heat waves and drought-plagued growing conditions have resulted in an unusually rich, ultra-ripe (leaning toward jammy), somehow exotic, alcoholic, dehydrate-sweet style of Bordeaux. The usually fine, elegant, mineral-scented, balanced Bordeaux was absent from this frightfully low-acid vintage. I remember tasting some 2003 reds last year together with the newly birthed 2004s. The fresh, delicate, bright-berries, well-delineated 2004 reds when compared side by side with the 2003s made the latter taste clumsy, chunky, jammy, unexcitingly dull fruited and heavy. The lack of freshness in this acid-deficient vintage produced wines which were clearly not my cup of tea.
Global warming is surely making its effects felt in European vineyards. Never have I seen a string of great vintages (or warm year) produced in France, Germany, Italy and Spain. Warmer growing condition has created more favorable and consistent vintages for these vineyards who used to struggle to ripen their fruits and often falling short in achieving desired alcohol levels. However, the change of growing condition also raises the concern as to how these vineyards would adapt to or cope with the newly changed environment. Let us not forget that most European vineyards had been cultivated to deal with cooler growing condition with minimal sun exposure. Quite often the prime vineyards are those which are better exposed to the daylight, with vines trained low to further benefit from the heat retained from the ground as the day sets into cool nights. Additionally, most prime vineyards are often well drained – meaning poor in water retention – which over time causes the vines to be stressed and therefore have to work harder to establish a deeper root system to obtained nourishment. As a result, they often yield smaller crops, with small but intense, flavorful berries. The general vineyard practices are also engineered toward lower fruit bearing ratio for each vine, with short pruning or crop trimming (also known as green harvest) to reduce the load of the vine so as to channel the finite vigors of the vines into the fewer remaining fruits and hence intensify them.
The new weather pattern has made these vineyards vulnerable to intense and excessive heat, which was never a problem previously. Potential challenges include grape being ‘burnt’ (berries shrivel and collapse), rapid growth (causes halt of vegetative development and addition to the sugar to overtake the pace of phenolic ripeness), loss of acidity, high alcohol wine, etc. The record-low rainfall (less than half previously) and the prolonged dry and drought growing condition in 2005 make me wonder, “Are the 2005 as freakish as 2003?”
Before leaving for Bordeaux for the en primeur tasting. I did some research on the official sites of most first and second growths in order to get myself ready for this tasting. I noted that many of the Chateaus are in fact very optimistic about the 2005. Some compare 2005 with the legendary vintages such as 1947, 1961…. Others call this the return of modern-day Bordeaux of 1982, 1990, 2000… The reason given was that although all chateaus admit that the 2005 vintage was characterized by the record shortage of rainfall (only 590 mm of rain instead of the usual 900 mm of rain in the region), the vines had adapted remarkably well to the severe drought. But how did this happen?
Firstly, the heat in 2005 was not as extreme as the scorching heat waves of 2003 (2 centigrade lower than 2003, according to Ducru-Beaucaillou). Secondly, during the harvest periods of September and October, the nights were cool as normal, unlike in 2003 whose nights were equally warm. Showers did actually occur in some occasions (between 8th and the 12th September) and this brought in some 23 mm of added rainfall beneficial in allowing the Chateaus to have a better control of the ripening. To top these up, the root system of the vines has been extended ever since the past two drought years of 2000 and 2003. It appears as though the vines could now survive better on drier conditions as their roots have gone some 3 or 4 meters deeper to search for nutrients while at the same time they are now less susceptible to the fluctuations on surface soil. The dry and windy weather throughout the harvest also ensured a disease- and parasite-free year in 2005. The same wind also helped to further intensify the berries by way of evaporation resulting in higher skin to juice ratio – another characteristic of the wines in this vintage.
The exceptional climate of 2005 has produced unusual grapes. 2005 produces wines of uncanny richness and power yet balanced and fresh. The drought was responsible for the lower-than-average yields and smaller-sized berries (20% smaller than usual). The skin to juice ratio was particularly high, which explains the deep color and big tannins for this vintage. The cool September was thought to contribute the sound acidity and freshness - attributes one could easily spot from this vintage. I also believe the Cabernet Sauvignon particularly thrives from alternating cool-nights-hot-days weather and the scattered showers in early September brought in a slow and gentle ripening.
I am however less optimistic – in fact quite skeptical – regarding the over-enthusiasm over Merlot grapes from the American critics and some Chateaus. There is no doubt that merlot has attained exceptional quality levels in 2005. This vintage produced the highest alcohol levels ever recorded for merlot which came in at 15.5%, according to Chateau Margaux. The richness, power and high alcohol found in 2005 merlots were unprecedented. As you might recall I have previously remarked that for any wine that reaches 14.5% alcohol, it is unavoidable that you will detect a burning sensation (or we call it a ‘hot finish’). It will not only mask the details and terroir of the wine, but also strips it off its grace and elegance which otherwise would have defined the character of the wines. The better Chateaus however had opted to include more to their blend the equally impressive but less freakish Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in order to balance their wines. Fine examples where such a decision was taken include Chateau Margaux (85% instead of the usual 75%), Chateau Lafite-Rothschild (89% instead of 70%), Pichon Lalande (64% instead of 45%) and Cheval Blanc.
The following are my impressions and thoughts about 2005 Bordeaux. Let’s all bear in mind that these wines were barrel samples, not finished wines. As a matter of fact, I encountered numerous samples in St.-Emilion where the wines had not fully finished with their malolactic-fermentation. It is also worth noting that although majority of the samples had finished their malo, in order to present the wines in a more appealing and attractive fashion during this en primeur campaign, they were mostly not sulfured. Such samples can be unstable and tend to degrade due to rapid oxidation. Whenever in doubt, I would revisit the wine or simply re-taste from a fresh bottle.
My principle in assessing en primeur wines does not look out for richness, tannins or alcohol strength of the wine but rather the overall balance, the quality of the ripeness (the balance of fruit/acid/tannin); the persistence of flavor in the palate; and, last but not least, the individuality, or terroir of the Chateau.
My Impression -
After my four days tasting in Bordeaux, all I can say is: 2005 is an outstanding vintage. Never have I seen so many high quality wines, limited not just to the first and super-second growths, but is so across all levels – a clear indication of a truly great vintage. I also encountered some of the best second wines I have ever tasted in my career assessing Bordeaux. The scale, density and complexity of 2005 wines were simply unprecedented. Madame Corinne Mentzelopoulos of Chateau Margaux told me during the dinner at her Chateau on Tuesday’s night (April 4th), one of her clients after tasting her 2005 Chateau Margaux enthused, “I am fortunate to be here witnessing one of the greatest vintages ever made in history of Bordeaux!” It might sound like an overstatement, yet I somehow had to agree.
2005 produces wines of huge concentration and big tannins. But the tannins are polished and ripe, plus the unusual freshness and brightness which clearly set them apart from the 2003s. The finest examples offer wines endowed with huge density, luminosity and silky palate, with sound acid-spine hidden underneath the wealth of ripe fruits, all lending the wines purity and elegance. The finishing balance is so exquisite and precise that the wines taste almost weightless in spite of its volume. Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux told me that in his 23 years of winemaking career he had never encountered a vintage of such mind-boggling juxtaposition – combing power and richness, yet amazingly equally fresh and in perfect harmony. “This could well be the best Chateau Margaux I have ever made,” added Pontallier.
It is indeed very hard to really single out which commune did best in this fabulous vintage. I am however quite certain that the overall quality on the left bank is higher than the right bank. I also do not subscribe to the opinion that Margaux is the strongest area for 2005, notwithstanding the unusually high number of voluptuously rich and massive wines found in this appellation in this vintage. But if I were put on the spot, I will cast my vote for Pauillac which is where I found the most consistency in overall quality and many of my favorite 2005s.
The overwhelming anticipation for Bordeaux 2005 has been brewing amongst the producers, wine brokers and consumers. The media and the press are equally excited and eager to be the first to announce another so-called legendary year, or vintage of the century. Ever since the millennial year of 2000, both 2001 and 2002 hardly came close to repeating the former’s glory. 2003, though favored by most American press, failed to live up to its early hype. Many of the 2003s today have been viewed as less classical in style, and have turned out somewhat like New World’s Californian cabernets – which explain why they are currently struggling to sustain the high price they once commanded initially.
I for one have never been a fan of 2003 Bordeaux. The intense heat waves and drought-plagued growing conditions have resulted in an unusually rich, ultra-ripe (leaning toward jammy), somehow exotic, alcoholic, dehydrate-sweet style of Bordeaux. The usually fine, elegant, mineral-scented, balanced Bordeaux was absent from this frightfully low-acid vintage. I remember tasting some 2003 reds last year together with the newly birthed 2004s. The fresh, delicate, bright-berries, well-delineated 2004 reds when compared side by side with the 2003s made the latter taste clumsy, chunky, jammy, unexcitingly dull fruited and heavy. The lack of freshness in this acid-deficient vintage produced wines which were clearly not my cup of tea.
Global warming is surely making its effects felt in European vineyards. Never have I seen a string of great vintages (or warm year) produced in France, Germany, Italy and Spain. Warmer growing condition has created more favorable and consistent vintages for these vineyards who used to struggle to ripen their fruits and often falling short in achieving desired alcohol levels. However, the change of growing condition also raises the concern as to how these vineyards would adapt to or cope with the newly changed environment. Let us not forget that most European vineyards had been cultivated to deal with cooler growing condition with minimal sun exposure. Quite often the prime vineyards are those which are better exposed to the daylight, with vines trained low to further benefit from the heat retained from the ground as the day sets into cool nights. Additionally, most prime vineyards are often well drained – meaning poor in water retention – which over time causes the vines to be stressed and therefore have to work harder to establish a deeper root system to obtained nourishment. As a result, they often yield smaller crops, with small but intense, flavorful berries. The general vineyard practices are also engineered toward lower fruit bearing ratio for each vine, with short pruning or crop trimming (also known as green harvest) to reduce the load of the vine so as to channel the finite vigors of the vines into the fewer remaining fruits and hence intensify them.
The new weather pattern has made these vineyards vulnerable to intense and excessive heat, which was never a problem previously. Potential challenges include grape being ‘burnt’ (berries shrivel and collapse), rapid growth (causes halt of vegetative development and addition to the sugar to overtake the pace of phenolic ripeness), loss of acidity, high alcohol wine, etc. The record-low rainfall (less than half previously) and the prolonged dry and drought growing condition in 2005 make me wonder, “Are the 2005 as freakish as 2003?”
Before leaving for Bordeaux for the en primeur tasting. I did some research on the official sites of most first and second growths in order to get myself ready for this tasting. I noted that many of the Chateaus are in fact very optimistic about the 2005. Some compare 2005 with the legendary vintages such as 1947, 1961…. Others call this the return of modern-day Bordeaux of 1982, 1990, 2000… The reason given was that although all chateaus admit that the 2005 vintage was characterized by the record shortage of rainfall (only 590 mm of rain instead of the usual 900 mm of rain in the region), the vines had adapted remarkably well to the severe drought. But how did this happen?
Firstly, the heat in 2005 was not as extreme as the scorching heat waves of 2003 (2 centigrade lower than 2003, according to Ducru-Beaucaillou). Secondly, during the harvest periods of September and October, the nights were cool as normal, unlike in 2003 whose nights were equally warm. Showers did actually occur in some occasions (between 8th and the 12th September) and this brought in some 23 mm of added rainfall beneficial in allowing the Chateaus to have a better control of the ripening. To top these up, the root system of the vines has been extended ever since the past two drought years of 2000 and 2003. It appears as though the vines could now survive better on drier conditions as their roots have gone some 3 or 4 meters deeper to search for nutrients while at the same time they are now less susceptible to the fluctuations on surface soil. The dry and windy weather throughout the harvest also ensured a disease- and parasite-free year in 2005. The same wind also helped to further intensify the berries by way of evaporation resulting in higher skin to juice ratio – another characteristic of the wines in this vintage.
The exceptional climate of 2005 has produced unusual grapes. 2005 produces wines of uncanny richness and power yet balanced and fresh. The drought was responsible for the lower-than-average yields and smaller-sized berries (20% smaller than usual). The skin to juice ratio was particularly high, which explains the deep color and big tannins for this vintage. The cool September was thought to contribute the sound acidity and freshness - attributes one could easily spot from this vintage. I also believe the Cabernet Sauvignon particularly thrives from alternating cool-nights-hot-days weather and the scattered showers in early September brought in a slow and gentle ripening.
I am however less optimistic – in fact quite skeptical – regarding the over-enthusiasm over Merlot grapes from the American critics and some Chateaus. There is no doubt that merlot has attained exceptional quality levels in 2005. This vintage produced the highest alcohol levels ever recorded for merlot which came in at 15.5%, according to Chateau Margaux. The richness, power and high alcohol found in 2005 merlots were unprecedented. As you might recall I have previously remarked that for any wine that reaches 14.5% alcohol, it is unavoidable that you will detect a burning sensation (or we call it a ‘hot finish’). It will not only mask the details and terroir of the wine, but also strips it off its grace and elegance which otherwise would have defined the character of the wines. The better Chateaus however had opted to include more to their blend the equally impressive but less freakish Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in order to balance their wines. Fine examples where such a decision was taken include Chateau Margaux (85% instead of the usual 75%), Chateau Lafite-Rothschild (89% instead of 70%), Pichon Lalande (64% instead of 45%) and Cheval Blanc.
The following are my impressions and thoughts about 2005 Bordeaux. Let’s all bear in mind that these wines were barrel samples, not finished wines. As a matter of fact, I encountered numerous samples in St.-Emilion where the wines had not fully finished with their malolactic-fermentation. It is also worth noting that although majority of the samples had finished their malo, in order to present the wines in a more appealing and attractive fashion during this en primeur campaign, they were mostly not sulfured. Such samples can be unstable and tend to degrade due to rapid oxidation. Whenever in doubt, I would revisit the wine or simply re-taste from a fresh bottle.
My principle in assessing en primeur wines does not look out for richness, tannins or alcohol strength of the wine but rather the overall balance, the quality of the ripeness (the balance of fruit/acid/tannin); the persistence of flavor in the palate; and, last but not least, the individuality, or terroir of the Chateau.
My Impression -
After my four days tasting in Bordeaux, all I can say is: 2005 is an outstanding vintage. Never have I seen so many high quality wines, limited not just to the first and super-second growths, but is so across all levels – a clear indication of a truly great vintage. I also encountered some of the best second wines I have ever tasted in my career assessing Bordeaux. The scale, density and complexity of 2005 wines were simply unprecedented. Madame Corinne Mentzelopoulos of Chateau Margaux told me during the dinner at her Chateau on Tuesday’s night (April 4th), one of her clients after tasting her 2005 Chateau Margaux enthused, “I am fortunate to be here witnessing one of the greatest vintages ever made in history of Bordeaux!” It might sound like an overstatement, yet I somehow had to agree.
2005 produces wines of huge concentration and big tannins. But the tannins are polished and ripe, plus the unusual freshness and brightness which clearly set them apart from the 2003s. The finest examples offer wines endowed with huge density, luminosity and silky palate, with sound acid-spine hidden underneath the wealth of ripe fruits, all lending the wines purity and elegance. The finishing balance is so exquisite and precise that the wines taste almost weightless in spite of its volume. Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux told me that in his 23 years of winemaking career he had never encountered a vintage of such mind-boggling juxtaposition – combing power and richness, yet amazingly equally fresh and in perfect harmony. “This could well be the best Chateau Margaux I have ever made,” added Pontallier.
It is indeed very hard to really single out which commune did best in this fabulous vintage. I am however quite certain that the overall quality on the left bank is higher than the right bank. I also do not subscribe to the opinion that Margaux is the strongest area for 2005, notwithstanding the unusually high number of voluptuously rich and massive wines found in this appellation in this vintage. But if I were put on the spot, I will cast my vote for Pauillac which is where I found the most consistency in overall quality and many of my favorite 2005s.
St.-Estèphe
I did not quite taste enough samples to conclude the overall quality of this appellation. Here are my views and ratings. My ratings are scored as Excellent, in which most of my highly recommended and wines not to be missed for this vintage are; followed by Very Good, and last but not least, Good. Those that do not qualify within this three-tier rating scheme are not included in this review. (The following wines are lined up chronologically according to my visits at the Chateaus but I have sorted the tasting notes by appellation.)
I did not quite taste enough samples to conclude the overall quality of this appellation. Here are my views and ratings. My ratings are scored as Excellent, in which most of my highly recommended and wines not to be missed for this vintage are; followed by Very Good, and last but not least, Good. Those that do not qualify within this three-tier rating scheme are not included in this review. (The following wines are lined up chronologically according to my visits at the Chateaus but I have sorted the tasting notes by appellation.)
Château Montrose, 2nd Growth of St.-Estèphe Very Good
Montrose is one of those who claim Merlot was the chief contributor to this vintage. In spite of the medium to full ruby color, it was however among the lightest of all the super-seconds. The wine is very expressive and opulent; very charming and sexy, featuring red and black berry fruits. I tasted Montrose right after my first glimpse of 2005 at Pontet-Canet and in no way was it comparable to the latter in terms of sheer size and extract. Could it simply be a different expression of this huge vintage? Or does this remind what Marcel Ducasses of Chateau Lagrange once told me that “Merlot is the grape that has the shortest window periods to pick… often within three days before both the color and the fruits deteriorate”? In comparison, Cabernet Sauvignon can enjoy a luxurious time of 15 days. Or did they just pick too late, which could possibly explain the weaker color and the somehow exotic, dehydrate-sweet personality? Nonetheless this is an awesome juice to drink with pleasure in near term.
Château Cos d’Estournel, 2nd Growth of St.-Estephe Excellent
I must qualify that it was not because of Jean-Guillaume Prat who so warmly greeted us at the doorstep that influenced my preference on Cos over Montrose. I honestly enjoyed the Cos 2005, especially when compared to last year’s version wherein its wines were forbiddingly tough and tannic. In spite of the impressive color, Cos 2005 displayed the typical mineral-scented berries. Very stylish, with excellent purity and pristine personality, this avoided the usual damp earth and ashy smoke element typically found in Cos. The rather reserved intensity expanded with air, and so did the promising, persistent palate of flavors. The well defined acid spine also lent this wine with a “racy” feel. Indeed very elegant and full of finesse.
Pauillac
Château Pontet-Canet, 5th Growth of Pauillac Very Good
Many people I met in the tasting considered 2005 to be the finest effort from this Chateau – currently owned by the Tesseron family, who also happens to produce a cognac. Alfred Tesseron was at the Chateau to welcome us. He was satisfied with their result in 2005, but was however quick to point out that they might have tried too hard in this vintage. The yield was lower than the average yield he would have preferred (it was 35 hectoliters per hectare instead of the usual 45 hectoliters per hectare). He told me, “As a vigneron, you do your best to protect the best interests of the Chateau,” for which he pruned hard on summer to deal with an usually wet and unpredictable harvest time. What he had done was to prepare for the worse weather possible which was to reduce the load off his vineyard. However the weather remained dry and hot throughout the harvest. Nonetheless I am pleased with the result although I was hoping to find some elegance in this massively constructed, voluptuously rich, cassis-cedar intertwined, big, chewy and tannic wine.
Château Lynch-Bages, 5th Growth of Pauillac Excellent
Never have I seen so many Chateau owners were present during the three days en primeur campaign, which tells you a lot regarding this highly anticipated vintage. Jean-Michel Cazes was not traveling and was in the tasting room welcoming the guests. During my entire tasting of 2005, I realized the finest dozen of Chateaus who achieved extraordinary quality levels in this vintage share a common feature: they are quite likely among the brighter, fresher, more luminous, silky, almost glossy palate, rich but weightless, voluptuous yet elegant wines. The balance is extraordinary given such contradicting attributes. 2005 Lynch-Bages is one example. Saturated color, with almost candied sweet nose, the palate was loaded with beautiful blackcurrants in a lush yet well focused frame. Nothing was over the top and the balance was simply outstanding. I can’t remember how many times I went back and refilled my glass. Yummy.
Château Pichon-Baron, 2nd Growth of Pauillac Good+
Many people told me how wonderful this wine is in this vintage. I did find it pleasurable but I thought it lacked the x-factor. Opulently sweet palate loaded with cassis and blackcurrants. Seamless and layered, with hardly noticeable (ripe) tannins. Quite voluminous, but I did not find persistent flavors. The finishing also showed more obvious alcohol, which to some extent had compromised the grace and details of the wine.
Château Clerc-Milon, 5th Growth of Pauillac Good
I really like Clerc Milon this year. Solid frame which was less showy than the rest. Wonderful quality of fruits as well as purity – which I rarely find with this wine. The palate was quite appealing with sweet blackcurrants and cedar, but at the same time well buffered with acidity and focused tannic frame. With more broadness and density, this wine could easily compete with its more illustrious big brother Mouton-Rothschild.
Château Mouton-Rothschild, 1st Growth of Pauillac Very Good
I feel that the last two vintages Mouton had failed to live up to its reputation; in fact quite often it was the least exciting first growth of all. I am not referring to the sheer volume – it just lacks the stuffing to be great. The 2005 version displayed the usual Mouton’s cedar, blackcurrant, smoke, and leather flavors. Positively ripe and nicely concentrated. Not the typical rich body, big tannin 2005 but possessed a good display of underlying acidity to highlight fruit purity and vibrancy. However, it still lacks the scale and class when compared to its peers and it seems somewhat lighter in style. A more elegant expression of Mouton perhaps?
Château Pichon-Lalande, 2nd Growth of Pauillac Very Good
To me, Pichon Lalande was among the most accurate and most candid in presenting the vintage report as well as the wine quality. I totally agreed with the Chateau that 2005 Pichon-Lalande resembled the style of 1996 or 1986, both of which I have had the opportunity to taste several times in my winetasting career. In spite of the dense color and black fruits quality, the wine was surprisingly very well focused, elegant and stylish. Atypical for the vintage, its racy acidity helped to safeguard the details and fruit purity in this subtle beauty. Who says great wine can only be viewed from it profoundness, texture, weight, but not grace and balance? After all, what Pichon-Lalade technical director, Thomas Do Chi Nam was after is finesse not power.
Château Latour, 1st Growth of Pauillac Excellent
This wine could easily be spotted as a first growth. The massiveness, scale, and density were unmistakable and hardly surprising given the consistency in quality this Chateau displays year after year. It is almost hard to imagine that this Chateau during the 80s was plagued with quality inconsistency which was addressed after the arrival of new owner, François Pinault and the installation of the new President, Frédéric Engerer. Dense, pure blackcurrant in a large-scale format. Plenty of dark Cabernet fruits coated in a chewy, edge-free palate. The depth of this giant was amazing and so was the overall equilibrium. The extra freshness found in this vintage has added a rare touch of purity and luminosity which made it more appealing than prior vintages. This is an obvious yet authoritative wine.
Château Lafite-Rothschild, 1st Growth of Pauillac Excellent
This wine is undoubtedly my finest Bordeaux of 2005. After witnessing some wood-charged, extra concentrated, garagiste, loud Lafite in the late 90s and early 2000, I finally saw the return of the old, familiar, elegant, subtle Lafite. Telltale tobacco, currant and mineral notes. The palate was dense yet subtle. Overall, it also came across more reserved than most 2005. Featured pure blackcurrant in a silky yet tangy palate, the well buffered acidity blessed the wine with good energy and precision. I was however more intrigued by the raciness, elegance and stylish personality found in this Lafite, qualities which were somewhat missing in Latour. The subtleness and overall balance were both exclusive and admirable. Compared to Latour, this is the Audrey Hepburn versus Elizabeth Taylor.
Château Batailley, 5th Growth of Pauillac Good
I was pleasantly surprised with this wine which I’d hardly associate with top quality. Very focused and solidly constructed with blackcurrants and cedar. Quite full bodied, but it was the persistent flavors on the palate which drew my attention to this sleeper.
Montrose is one of those who claim Merlot was the chief contributor to this vintage. In spite of the medium to full ruby color, it was however among the lightest of all the super-seconds. The wine is very expressive and opulent; very charming and sexy, featuring red and black berry fruits. I tasted Montrose right after my first glimpse of 2005 at Pontet-Canet and in no way was it comparable to the latter in terms of sheer size and extract. Could it simply be a different expression of this huge vintage? Or does this remind what Marcel Ducasses of Chateau Lagrange once told me that “Merlot is the grape that has the shortest window periods to pick… often within three days before both the color and the fruits deteriorate”? In comparison, Cabernet Sauvignon can enjoy a luxurious time of 15 days. Or did they just pick too late, which could possibly explain the weaker color and the somehow exotic, dehydrate-sweet personality? Nonetheless this is an awesome juice to drink with pleasure in near term.
Château Cos d’Estournel, 2nd Growth of St.-Estephe Excellent
I must qualify that it was not because of Jean-Guillaume Prat who so warmly greeted us at the doorstep that influenced my preference on Cos over Montrose. I honestly enjoyed the Cos 2005, especially when compared to last year’s version wherein its wines were forbiddingly tough and tannic. In spite of the impressive color, Cos 2005 displayed the typical mineral-scented berries. Very stylish, with excellent purity and pristine personality, this avoided the usual damp earth and ashy smoke element typically found in Cos. The rather reserved intensity expanded with air, and so did the promising, persistent palate of flavors. The well defined acid spine also lent this wine with a “racy” feel. Indeed very elegant and full of finesse.
Pauillac
Château Pontet-Canet, 5th Growth of Pauillac Very Good
Many people I met in the tasting considered 2005 to be the finest effort from this Chateau – currently owned by the Tesseron family, who also happens to produce a cognac. Alfred Tesseron was at the Chateau to welcome us. He was satisfied with their result in 2005, but was however quick to point out that they might have tried too hard in this vintage. The yield was lower than the average yield he would have preferred (it was 35 hectoliters per hectare instead of the usual 45 hectoliters per hectare). He told me, “As a vigneron, you do your best to protect the best interests of the Chateau,” for which he pruned hard on summer to deal with an usually wet and unpredictable harvest time. What he had done was to prepare for the worse weather possible which was to reduce the load off his vineyard. However the weather remained dry and hot throughout the harvest. Nonetheless I am pleased with the result although I was hoping to find some elegance in this massively constructed, voluptuously rich, cassis-cedar intertwined, big, chewy and tannic wine.
Château Lynch-Bages, 5th Growth of Pauillac Excellent
Never have I seen so many Chateau owners were present during the three days en primeur campaign, which tells you a lot regarding this highly anticipated vintage. Jean-Michel Cazes was not traveling and was in the tasting room welcoming the guests. During my entire tasting of 2005, I realized the finest dozen of Chateaus who achieved extraordinary quality levels in this vintage share a common feature: they are quite likely among the brighter, fresher, more luminous, silky, almost glossy palate, rich but weightless, voluptuous yet elegant wines. The balance is extraordinary given such contradicting attributes. 2005 Lynch-Bages is one example. Saturated color, with almost candied sweet nose, the palate was loaded with beautiful blackcurrants in a lush yet well focused frame. Nothing was over the top and the balance was simply outstanding. I can’t remember how many times I went back and refilled my glass. Yummy.
Château Pichon-Baron, 2nd Growth of Pauillac Good+
Many people told me how wonderful this wine is in this vintage. I did find it pleasurable but I thought it lacked the x-factor. Opulently sweet palate loaded with cassis and blackcurrants. Seamless and layered, with hardly noticeable (ripe) tannins. Quite voluminous, but I did not find persistent flavors. The finishing also showed more obvious alcohol, which to some extent had compromised the grace and details of the wine.
Château Clerc-Milon, 5th Growth of Pauillac Good
I really like Clerc Milon this year. Solid frame which was less showy than the rest. Wonderful quality of fruits as well as purity – which I rarely find with this wine. The palate was quite appealing with sweet blackcurrants and cedar, but at the same time well buffered with acidity and focused tannic frame. With more broadness and density, this wine could easily compete with its more illustrious big brother Mouton-Rothschild.
Château Mouton-Rothschild, 1st Growth of Pauillac Very Good
I feel that the last two vintages Mouton had failed to live up to its reputation; in fact quite often it was the least exciting first growth of all. I am not referring to the sheer volume – it just lacks the stuffing to be great. The 2005 version displayed the usual Mouton’s cedar, blackcurrant, smoke, and leather flavors. Positively ripe and nicely concentrated. Not the typical rich body, big tannin 2005 but possessed a good display of underlying acidity to highlight fruit purity and vibrancy. However, it still lacks the scale and class when compared to its peers and it seems somewhat lighter in style. A more elegant expression of Mouton perhaps?
Château Pichon-Lalande, 2nd Growth of Pauillac Very Good
To me, Pichon Lalande was among the most accurate and most candid in presenting the vintage report as well as the wine quality. I totally agreed with the Chateau that 2005 Pichon-Lalande resembled the style of 1996 or 1986, both of which I have had the opportunity to taste several times in my winetasting career. In spite of the dense color and black fruits quality, the wine was surprisingly very well focused, elegant and stylish. Atypical for the vintage, its racy acidity helped to safeguard the details and fruit purity in this subtle beauty. Who says great wine can only be viewed from it profoundness, texture, weight, but not grace and balance? After all, what Pichon-Lalade technical director, Thomas Do Chi Nam was after is finesse not power.
Château Latour, 1st Growth of Pauillac Excellent
This wine could easily be spotted as a first growth. The massiveness, scale, and density were unmistakable and hardly surprising given the consistency in quality this Chateau displays year after year. It is almost hard to imagine that this Chateau during the 80s was plagued with quality inconsistency which was addressed after the arrival of new owner, François Pinault and the installation of the new President, Frédéric Engerer. Dense, pure blackcurrant in a large-scale format. Plenty of dark Cabernet fruits coated in a chewy, edge-free palate. The depth of this giant was amazing and so was the overall equilibrium. The extra freshness found in this vintage has added a rare touch of purity and luminosity which made it more appealing than prior vintages. This is an obvious yet authoritative wine.
Château Lafite-Rothschild, 1st Growth of Pauillac Excellent
This wine is undoubtedly my finest Bordeaux of 2005. After witnessing some wood-charged, extra concentrated, garagiste, loud Lafite in the late 90s and early 2000, I finally saw the return of the old, familiar, elegant, subtle Lafite. Telltale tobacco, currant and mineral notes. The palate was dense yet subtle. Overall, it also came across more reserved than most 2005. Featured pure blackcurrant in a silky yet tangy palate, the well buffered acidity blessed the wine with good energy and precision. I was however more intrigued by the raciness, elegance and stylish personality found in this Lafite, qualities which were somewhat missing in Latour. The subtleness and overall balance were both exclusive and admirable. Compared to Latour, this is the Audrey Hepburn versus Elizabeth Taylor.
Château Batailley, 5th Growth of Pauillac Good
I was pleasantly surprised with this wine which I’d hardly associate with top quality. Very focused and solidly constructed with blackcurrants and cedar. Quite full bodied, but it was the persistent flavors on the palate which drew my attention to this sleeper.
No comments:
Post a Comment