Among all the Chardonnay made in Australia. I admire the recent work of Sandro Mosele racy, chalky, Chablis-like Fautline Chardonnay; Rick Kinzbrunner delicious, leesy Giaconda Chardonnay; Geoff Weaver's restrained, aged worthy Leeswood Chardonnay; Turbo-charged, oaked, Meursault-like Vanya Cullen's Chardonnay; Recently, Jeff Grosset has also been turning out some sumptuous, almost Giaconda look alike Piccadilly Chardonnay and with some luck, you might find a bottle or two of European-inspired, very fine Chardonnay from Sorrenberg. However, there are still many monotonous, one-dimensional, overly-wooded, overly-acidified, yeast-driven fruit cocktail, uninspiring chardonnay coming out from Australia. Also, some over hyped, over priced chardonnay such as Penfold's Yattarna Chardonnay and Mount Mary Chardonnay, which try to emulate burgundy, making more subtle, elegant, so-called Puligny-Montrachet-like chardonnay. However, beside the obvious acidification, which could somehow resemble the 04 white burgundy malic-component, they lack the real material to support and balance those acidity! Ridiculously, they are charging for a primeur or grand cru burgundy price.
Over the years, I have come to appreciate Chardonnay made by Leeuwin Estate in Margaret River. Granted, there were years that, the chardonnay could be too full-blown, too fat, too butterscotch-ish (too much batonnage) for my liking. However, they have witness their chardonnay aged amazingly well, despite the precautious personality. Having been tasted in few occasion of their 1980, 1984, 1987, 1990, and interesting, either due to their fruit has better integrated with the woods, or the early oily, fatty baby-fat has disappeared? Those chardonnays seem to turn more refine and elegant with age. In a number of occasion, I have even mistaken it for burgundy!
Few years ago, I have the privilege to be invited by Leeuwin Estate to participate in the chardonnay blending exercise with the former serious winemaker of Leeuwin and now, winemaker for Chalice Bridge Estate and consultant for Leeuwin, Bob Cartwright. Bob is the guy that largely credits his success of creating one of the nation best chardonnay. He told me that, he has adopted all the burgundian technique when it comes to making his chardonnay. That means, preliminary cold soak, cold settling before fermentation takes place in barrel. Several yeast strain is inoculated. Malolactic is carry out but rarely 100%, in year, they might block the malos to preserve better acidity. After fermentation, the must remained with its lees, and batonnage (yeast stirring) is constantly carried out for the next 12 months. For Leeuwin estate Chardonnay, each plot of fruits is vinified and treated separately. Toward the end of elevage, the team of Leeuwin winemaking team will come up with the final blend. However, block 20, due to it's old-vine quality (30 over year-old with clone that's originally from Houghton vineyard) has consistently been the backbone, component blend for Leeuwin Chardonnay.
Over the years, I have come to appreciate Chardonnay made by Leeuwin Estate in Margaret River. Granted, there were years that, the chardonnay could be too full-blown, too fat, too butterscotch-ish (too much batonnage) for my liking. However, they have witness their chardonnay aged amazingly well, despite the precautious personality. Having been tasted in few occasion of their 1980, 1984, 1987, 1990, and interesting, either due to their fruit has better integrated with the woods, or the early oily, fatty baby-fat has disappeared? Those chardonnays seem to turn more refine and elegant with age. In a number of occasion, I have even mistaken it for burgundy!
Few years ago, I have the privilege to be invited by Leeuwin Estate to participate in the chardonnay blending exercise with the former serious winemaker of Leeuwin and now, winemaker for Chalice Bridge Estate and consultant for Leeuwin, Bob Cartwright. Bob is the guy that largely credits his success of creating one of the nation best chardonnay. He told me that, he has adopted all the burgundian technique when it comes to making his chardonnay. That means, preliminary cold soak, cold settling before fermentation takes place in barrel. Several yeast strain is inoculated. Malolactic is carry out but rarely 100%, in year, they might block the malos to preserve better acidity. After fermentation, the must remained with its lees, and batonnage (yeast stirring) is constantly carried out for the next 12 months. For Leeuwin estate Chardonnay, each plot of fruits is vinified and treated separately. Toward the end of elevage, the team of Leeuwin winemaking team will come up with the final blend. However, block 20, due to it's old-vine quality (30 over year-old with clone that's originally from Houghton vineyard) has consistently been the backbone, component blend for Leeuwin Chardonnay.
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