By now, you should know that alongside Chambolle-Musigny, Gevrey-Chambertin is my favorite red wine commune in Côte de Nuits. Any experienced taster of Burgundy can easily spot a Gevrey-Chambertin. It has the minerality of Chambolle-Musigny, the spicy flamboyance of Vosne-Romanée and the finesse and purity of Morey-St.-Denis. Perhaps, add a little touch of Nuits-Saint-Georges’ earth will complete the concoction. The famous French historian, Gaston Roupnel has this to say about Chambertin, “On its own, it is all that is possible in a great Burgundy. Tough and powerful like the greatest of Cortons, it has the delicacy of Musigny, the velvet of Romanée, and the perfume of a high Clos Vougeot.”
Gevrey Chambertin is also home of what is known as the King of Burgundy – Le Chambertin – for whom one of its most loyal notable devotees was one such person called Napoleon Bonaparte, who used to drink nothing other than his favorite bottles of Chambertin. It was once said that his death was caused by his having nothing but Bordeaux to drink when he was expelled to the Island of St. Helena!
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest commune of the Côte de Nuits. It is also among the commune blessed with the most number of grands crus – a total of nine, namely, Chambertin (12.28 ha), Chambertin-Clos de Bèze (14.95 ha). Chapelle-Chambertin (5.49 ha), Charmes or Mazoyères-Chambertin (27.95 ha), Griotte-Chambertin (2.76 ha), Latricières-Chambertin (7.31 ha), Mazis-Chambertin (8.97 ha) and finally, Ruchottes-Chambertin (2.86 ha).
Additionally, there are a total of 26 premiers crus, which could largely be divided into three groups. The Combe de Lavaut section, the northwest knoll of Ruchottes and Mazis-Chambertin with its cold and damp air that flows through the Combe causes the temperature to drop several degrees lower than other sections. In such a microclimate, the prolonged ripening cycle of this section performs best in warmer years and is largely considered as the finest of all the three sections. A total of 12 premier crus hails from this section. It is also a fact that year-in-year-out, these 12 premier crus have consistently produces some of the finest, most individualistic, most minerally-scented and highest-pitch of all Gevrey premier crus. Here are some recommended producers and premier cru lieu-dit to look out for:
La Bossière (0.45 ha) – Harmand-Geoffroy
Les Cazetiers and Petits Cazetiers (9.1 and 9.5 ha) – Bruno Clair, Armand Rousseau, Christian Serafin
Les Champeaux (6.7 ha) – Dugat-py, Fourrier, Maume, Denis Mortet
Combe-aux-Moines (4.77 ha) – Faiveley, Fourrier, Gallois, René Leclerc
Estournelles St. Jacques (2.1 ha) – Humbert Frères
Les Goulots (1.8 ha) – Fourrier, Michel Magnien
Le Poissenots (2.2 ha) – Humbert Frères, Geantet-Pansiot
La Romanée (1.1 ha) – des Varoilles (monopole)
Clos St. Jacques (6.7 ha) – Rousseau, Fourrier, Sylvie Esmonin
Lavaut St. Jacques (9.5 ha) – Claude Dugat, Denis Mortet
Les Vérroilles or Clos des Varoilles (6 ha) - des Varoilles (monopole)
A second section consisting of eight premier crus, lies above the Route des Grands Crus with soils similar to those of its grand cru neighbors:
Bel-Air (2.65 ha) – de la Vougeraie
Champonnets (3.32 ha) – Lucien Boillot, Faiveley
Clos du Chapitre (0.98 ha) -
Aux Combottes (4.6 ha) – Pierre-Amiot, Dujac, Hubert Lignier, Raphet
Les Corbeaux (3.21 ha) – Denis Bachelet, Bruno Clavelier, Christian Serafin
Craipilot (2.75 ha) – Humbert Frères
Fontenys (3.7 ha) – Bruno Clair, Joseph Roty
Plantigone ou Issarts (0.62 ha) – Faiveley
Like many Vosne-Romanée producers who also produce Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau (Anne Gros, Bruno Clavelier) and Nuits-St.-Georges Aux Boudots (Méo-Camuzet, Mongeard-Mugneret), Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes is made famous by producers based in the neighbouring commune Morey-St.-Denis. This could be partly due to the fact that this premier cru is located at the southern edge of Gevrey, adjacent to the commune of Morey.
The third section, which lies beneath of Route Nationale, or RN 74 is largely considered the least favorable sections. It has frequently been blended with other premier crus or simply marketed as ‘generic’ Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru. It is rare that single lieu-dit bottlings emerge from this section. For the rare ones that do, I have appended the recommended producers correspondingly below:
Les Cherbaudes (2.2 ha) – Lucien Boillot, Fourrier
Au Closeau (0.53 ha)
Clos Haut-Prieur (1.98 ha)
En Ergot (1.17 ha)
La Perrière (2.5 ha)
Petite Chapelle (4 ha) – Dugat-py, Humbert Frères
The villages vineyards account for some 369 ha with an average production of 135,000 hl or 18.3 million bottles. Due to its quantity, the quality here is highly variable. To the diligent observers, it is found that a large portion of villages level vineyards are planted on the wrong side of RN 74, whose lands tend to be largely flat, consisting more of clay than limestone, and consequently do not drain particularly well. I have noticed that in 2004, the quality gap between villages and premier cru level are quite significant. Interestingly, in the case in 2002, I found the villages vineyards to be particularly successful, especially those climats situated in the Brochon commune (such as Fourrier & Humbert Frères). The village climats are largely divided into three sectors: the north, Brochon side of the village (the finest, producing wines of richness and power); the south, just underneath the grands crus (lighter, more fragrant and feminine wine); and from the opposite side of RN 74 (less defined and lighter). All these said, in the hand of truly skillful producers, some less ideal villages climats can in always produce something worth seeking, as exemplified by the case of La Justice made by Domaine de la Vougeraie and En Reniard by Alain Burguet.
Jean-Louis Trapet looks very much like Christopher Lambert (Highlander), the French-born, Hollywood-based actor. The even sound alike. This domaine is located at the main road of Route des Grand Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin. Together with Dominque Lafon, Anne-Claude Leflaive and Benjamin Leroux of Comte Armand, Trapet has adopted the approach of la biodynamie farming. They meet regularly to exchange experiences and philosophy.
Trapet suggested to start the tasting with the 2005 and poured me his personal pride - Latricières Chambertin, whose vines are more than a century old. According to Trapet, his 2005s had not started its fermentation yet. The wine displayed very promising dense color along with an attractive sweetness that recalled a young vintage port. The palate was sensuous and vibrant at the same time. Trapet agreed with my views, which goes to say that his 2005 reds unusually combine both extremes of warmth & freshness. My subsequent discussion with Benjamin Leroux of Comte Armand also confirmed this observation. He told me that 2005 is a vintage where the grapes achieve a potential alcohol higher than 2003 but combined with an unusual acidity that was higher than vintage 1996! Balanced and charming would be how I later sum up my tasting.
2004 Chapelle-Chambertin (from a vine age between 40-65 year-old) offered smoke wood, nut and some sous bois quality. This contrasted with the palate, with pure and pristine red fruit that came across as very delicate and profound. Trapet agreed that Chapelle-Chambertin is possibly the easiest Gevrey grand cru to assess young. It ripens the earliest and is the simplest to appreciate Chambertin. 2004 Latricières-Chambertin was a different breed. The wine showed more depth on the nose, displaying precise red raspberry (many producers told me that, 2004 red burgundies display distinctly red fruits) in a well-spine palate that sported good acidity transcending into an elegant palate. I am not entirely sure if the fine and subtle characteristics of Latricières-Chambertin is due to its elevated exposition, where the topsoil tends to be thinner, or it was the fact that a portion of Latricières-Chambertin in fact lies next to Morey Saint-Denis’ only white-wine climat of Monts Luisants. Trapet 2004 Chambertin was unique. The nose was distinctly more mineral, with an intriguing ginger like flavor. Clearly more dark fruit laden with impressive mineral quality. The wine had yet to fully unveil its potential, but it clearly demonstrated more muscles and minerals than all the previous wines. Trapet does not destem entirely and there are no standard rules here. In 2004, he included 25% whole cluster fermentation and in 2005 increased it to 35% (the ripening was less even in 2004 compared to 2005, in addition to problems such as oidium and hail). He also occasionally practices cold soak prior to the alcoholic fermentation. After tasting through all the barrel samples of 2004 and 2005, Trapet suggested to try the bottled 2003s, the wines of which were already opened earlier in the day. I was surprised to at how different his 2003s tasted from the rest and simply put, they were the best I have tasted from this trip. The regular 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin showed more creamy wood, confectionery fruits and came across more dehydrate-sweet, with a seamless but relatively short finish. 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru displayed better precision, but its reductive personality made it difficult to assess. 2003 Chapelle-Chambertin typified 2003s jammy quality, but the wine was equally opulent and attractive. 2003 Latricières-Chambertin was less showy, with delicate and gentle palate that demonstrated better elegance and balanced, especially coming from this vintage. The subtle wood in this red also displayed better fruit purity with none of the heat-stressed chalky tannins. Atypical for 2003, and perhaps so due to the old vines’ deep root system which enabled it to be less affected from the intense heat. 2003 Chambertin with its dark raspberry, almost currant, liquorices and seamless, delicate palate is not the usual character of this grand cru (I thought it tasted more like a Charmes-Chambertin). Nonetheless, the wine was very sexy and not excessively rich nor as extreme as many 2003s I have encountered from this trip. All in all, I enjoy Trapet’s style. His Chambertin consists of old style elements of underbrush (more sous-bois than sauvage), smoke, earth, and yet it is admirably graceful and refined. Although all his wines are quite rich in texture, you could still find elegance, purity and details in each of his wines, and more importantly, it is well delineated, weightless and balanced. There is this sense of sensuousness and gracefulness which permeates all of his cuvées. My favorite of all is his Latricières-Chambertin: very elegant, precise and with such pronounced minerality to few Latricières-Chambertin I’ve come across manages to display.
Day Two (November 15, 2005)
Before I went about with my morning tasting session at Domaine Fourrier, I would like to highlight that this domaine is a Gevrey-Chambertin producer although Jean-Marie also makes wines from Vougeot, Morey-Saints-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny. The 9 hectares estate is currently managed and run by Jean-Marie Fourrier, a fifth generation vigneron. Jean-Marie is assisted by his English wife, Vicki.
I knew nothing about this domaine before my appointment. I was indeed excited by the passionate Jean-Marie Fourrier and emotionally affected by his well-crafted burgundies. A brief background of Jean-Marie: He is among the very few privileged enough to be taught by the great Henri Jayer before the latter announced his retirement in 1989 (as we all know, he physical retirement was very well extended till 1999). Afterwards, he had a stint in Domaine Drouhin in Oregon in 1993. When he returned to his family domaine in 1994, he was immediately put in charge of the domaine by his father, Jean-Claude Fourrier. He never looked back since.
Fourrier’s style reminded me a lot of Pascal Lachaux’s of Domaine Arnoux. It is a sexy juice – spicy, occasionally earthy with lush and seductively sweet personality, sappiness, exceptional purity, firmness acidity and precision. Perhaps Fourrier’s wine has an edge better vibrancy and clarity, and the mineral quality which is not found in Arnoux’s wines.
He adopts a few philosophies from Jayer. Low yield, Fourrier only produces 7 hectares out of his estate 9 hectares of vineyard; and old vine, he sold all his grape that vine is less than 30 years of age to the local négociants. In his portfolio, the younger vines of all is his Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots, which is already a 40-year-old; Like Jayer, he does not practice green harvest. As much as he would like to turn his vineyard to la biodynamie, the tiny vineyard holdings, and with his neighbors using chemical sprays that are likely to contaminate his own vines, he has opted instead for the use of clonal to combat the disease. His clone was select through sélection massale, or mass selection from his older parcel of vineyard whose vines average between 40 to 94 year-old.
Fourrier is very strict about grape sorting or triage, and is quite sure that it should be done in the vineyard in order to avoid hail or disease contamination. Yet at the same time he worries about the risks of oxidation. So in the meantime, it is done in the cuvèrie. The timing for harvesting is extremely crucial for him, which explains why he hires the largest team of harvesters in the whole of Gevrey to ensure he pick at the optimal ripeness window without losing the natural acidity.
Fourrier’s style of winemaking is the first I have heard of and is clearly unique in Burgundy. He destems 100%, followed by a cold maceration for 6 days with 3-4 punch-downs per day. The more vigorous pump-over was not practiced by this producer, as well as extended maceration. Color is never the main concern in Fourrier’s wine. Unlike Jayer, who is not shy to utilize 100% new oak barrels, Fourrier uses only up to 20% of new barrels for aging. Fourrier dislikes his wines to carry too much new oak flavor and for him, oak barrels are but a tool to perform micro-oxygenation. Another interesting point is that like Jacques Lardière of Louis Jadot, he believes that the better the cru, the less new oak is required. This flies in the face of most burgundians who advocate new oak treatment.
There are no racking or bâtonnage conducted here, as Fourrier believes in retaining the carbon dioxide to protect his wines again oxidation. As a result, no sulphur was added until bottling. Fourrier’s preference of working with CO2 in contrast to the modern trend of pre-oxidizing of wines to make it more supple, such as the use of micro-oxygenation is very much welcome by me indeed as I appreciate acidity, purity, vibrancy and details as opposed to premature oxidized-sweetness, or dehydrate-sweetness. Since the wines would naturally clear after 16-20 months without racking, no fining or filtrationis carried out for his wines. As a result, there are potential traces of CO2 which can be found in the finished wine, the reason for which Fourrier highly recommends decanting his wines when it is young.
You can always expect Fourrier’s wines to possess a transparent and elegant personality. Very often it is vibrantly bright, often leaning toward red rather than black fruits. Exceptionally fresh, pure and racy, it is a wine of finesse, details and clarity. To sum up, a truly terroir-driven wine that will be admired and appreciated by all hardcore burgundy fanatics.
Gevrey Chambertin is also home of what is known as the King of Burgundy – Le Chambertin – for whom one of its most loyal notable devotees was one such person called Napoleon Bonaparte, who used to drink nothing other than his favorite bottles of Chambertin. It was once said that his death was caused by his having nothing but Bordeaux to drink when he was expelled to the Island of St. Helena!
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest commune of the Côte de Nuits. It is also among the commune blessed with the most number of grands crus – a total of nine, namely, Chambertin (12.28 ha), Chambertin-Clos de Bèze (14.95 ha). Chapelle-Chambertin (5.49 ha), Charmes or Mazoyères-Chambertin (27.95 ha), Griotte-Chambertin (2.76 ha), Latricières-Chambertin (7.31 ha), Mazis-Chambertin (8.97 ha) and finally, Ruchottes-Chambertin (2.86 ha).
Additionally, there are a total of 26 premiers crus, which could largely be divided into three groups. The Combe de Lavaut section, the northwest knoll of Ruchottes and Mazis-Chambertin with its cold and damp air that flows through the Combe causes the temperature to drop several degrees lower than other sections. In such a microclimate, the prolonged ripening cycle of this section performs best in warmer years and is largely considered as the finest of all the three sections. A total of 12 premier crus hails from this section. It is also a fact that year-in-year-out, these 12 premier crus have consistently produces some of the finest, most individualistic, most minerally-scented and highest-pitch of all Gevrey premier crus. Here are some recommended producers and premier cru lieu-dit to look out for:
La Bossière (0.45 ha) – Harmand-Geoffroy
Les Cazetiers and Petits Cazetiers (9.1 and 9.5 ha) – Bruno Clair, Armand Rousseau, Christian Serafin
Les Champeaux (6.7 ha) – Dugat-py, Fourrier, Maume, Denis Mortet
Combe-aux-Moines (4.77 ha) – Faiveley, Fourrier, Gallois, René Leclerc
Estournelles St. Jacques (2.1 ha) – Humbert Frères
Les Goulots (1.8 ha) – Fourrier, Michel Magnien
Le Poissenots (2.2 ha) – Humbert Frères, Geantet-Pansiot
La Romanée (1.1 ha) – des Varoilles (monopole)
Clos St. Jacques (6.7 ha) – Rousseau, Fourrier, Sylvie Esmonin
Lavaut St. Jacques (9.5 ha) – Claude Dugat, Denis Mortet
Les Vérroilles or Clos des Varoilles (6 ha) - des Varoilles (monopole)
A second section consisting of eight premier crus, lies above the Route des Grands Crus with soils similar to those of its grand cru neighbors:
Bel-Air (2.65 ha) – de la Vougeraie
Champonnets (3.32 ha) – Lucien Boillot, Faiveley
Clos du Chapitre (0.98 ha) -
Aux Combottes (4.6 ha) – Pierre-Amiot, Dujac, Hubert Lignier, Raphet
Les Corbeaux (3.21 ha) – Denis Bachelet, Bruno Clavelier, Christian Serafin
Craipilot (2.75 ha) – Humbert Frères
Fontenys (3.7 ha) – Bruno Clair, Joseph Roty
Plantigone ou Issarts (0.62 ha) – Faiveley
Like many Vosne-Romanée producers who also produce Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau (Anne Gros, Bruno Clavelier) and Nuits-St.-Georges Aux Boudots (Méo-Camuzet, Mongeard-Mugneret), Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes is made famous by producers based in the neighbouring commune Morey-St.-Denis. This could be partly due to the fact that this premier cru is located at the southern edge of Gevrey, adjacent to the commune of Morey.
The third section, which lies beneath of Route Nationale, or RN 74 is largely considered the least favorable sections. It has frequently been blended with other premier crus or simply marketed as ‘generic’ Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru. It is rare that single lieu-dit bottlings emerge from this section. For the rare ones that do, I have appended the recommended producers correspondingly below:
Les Cherbaudes (2.2 ha) – Lucien Boillot, Fourrier
Au Closeau (0.53 ha)
Clos Haut-Prieur (1.98 ha)
En Ergot (1.17 ha)
La Perrière (2.5 ha)
Petite Chapelle (4 ha) – Dugat-py, Humbert Frères
The villages vineyards account for some 369 ha with an average production of 135,000 hl or 18.3 million bottles. Due to its quantity, the quality here is highly variable. To the diligent observers, it is found that a large portion of villages level vineyards are planted on the wrong side of RN 74, whose lands tend to be largely flat, consisting more of clay than limestone, and consequently do not drain particularly well. I have noticed that in 2004, the quality gap between villages and premier cru level are quite significant. Interestingly, in the case in 2002, I found the villages vineyards to be particularly successful, especially those climats situated in the Brochon commune (such as Fourrier & Humbert Frères). The village climats are largely divided into three sectors: the north, Brochon side of the village (the finest, producing wines of richness and power); the south, just underneath the grands crus (lighter, more fragrant and feminine wine); and from the opposite side of RN 74 (less defined and lighter). All these said, in the hand of truly skillful producers, some less ideal villages climats can in always produce something worth seeking, as exemplified by the case of La Justice made by Domaine de la Vougeraie and En Reniard by Alain Burguet.
Jean-Louis Trapet looks very much like Christopher Lambert (Highlander), the French-born, Hollywood-based actor. The even sound alike. This domaine is located at the main road of Route des Grand Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin. Together with Dominque Lafon, Anne-Claude Leflaive and Benjamin Leroux of Comte Armand, Trapet has adopted the approach of la biodynamie farming. They meet regularly to exchange experiences and philosophy.
Trapet suggested to start the tasting with the 2005 and poured me his personal pride - Latricières Chambertin, whose vines are more than a century old. According to Trapet, his 2005s had not started its fermentation yet. The wine displayed very promising dense color along with an attractive sweetness that recalled a young vintage port. The palate was sensuous and vibrant at the same time. Trapet agreed with my views, which goes to say that his 2005 reds unusually combine both extremes of warmth & freshness. My subsequent discussion with Benjamin Leroux of Comte Armand also confirmed this observation. He told me that 2005 is a vintage where the grapes achieve a potential alcohol higher than 2003 but combined with an unusual acidity that was higher than vintage 1996! Balanced and charming would be how I later sum up my tasting.
2004 Chapelle-Chambertin (from a vine age between 40-65 year-old) offered smoke wood, nut and some sous bois quality. This contrasted with the palate, with pure and pristine red fruit that came across as very delicate and profound. Trapet agreed that Chapelle-Chambertin is possibly the easiest Gevrey grand cru to assess young. It ripens the earliest and is the simplest to appreciate Chambertin. 2004 Latricières-Chambertin was a different breed. The wine showed more depth on the nose, displaying precise red raspberry (many producers told me that, 2004 red burgundies display distinctly red fruits) in a well-spine palate that sported good acidity transcending into an elegant palate. I am not entirely sure if the fine and subtle characteristics of Latricières-Chambertin is due to its elevated exposition, where the topsoil tends to be thinner, or it was the fact that a portion of Latricières-Chambertin in fact lies next to Morey Saint-Denis’ only white-wine climat of Monts Luisants. Trapet 2004 Chambertin was unique. The nose was distinctly more mineral, with an intriguing ginger like flavor. Clearly more dark fruit laden with impressive mineral quality. The wine had yet to fully unveil its potential, but it clearly demonstrated more muscles and minerals than all the previous wines. Trapet does not destem entirely and there are no standard rules here. In 2004, he included 25% whole cluster fermentation and in 2005 increased it to 35% (the ripening was less even in 2004 compared to 2005, in addition to problems such as oidium and hail). He also occasionally practices cold soak prior to the alcoholic fermentation. After tasting through all the barrel samples of 2004 and 2005, Trapet suggested to try the bottled 2003s, the wines of which were already opened earlier in the day. I was surprised to at how different his 2003s tasted from the rest and simply put, they were the best I have tasted from this trip. The regular 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin showed more creamy wood, confectionery fruits and came across more dehydrate-sweet, with a seamless but relatively short finish. 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru displayed better precision, but its reductive personality made it difficult to assess. 2003 Chapelle-Chambertin typified 2003s jammy quality, but the wine was equally opulent and attractive. 2003 Latricières-Chambertin was less showy, with delicate and gentle palate that demonstrated better elegance and balanced, especially coming from this vintage. The subtle wood in this red also displayed better fruit purity with none of the heat-stressed chalky tannins. Atypical for 2003, and perhaps so due to the old vines’ deep root system which enabled it to be less affected from the intense heat. 2003 Chambertin with its dark raspberry, almost currant, liquorices and seamless, delicate palate is not the usual character of this grand cru (I thought it tasted more like a Charmes-Chambertin). Nonetheless, the wine was very sexy and not excessively rich nor as extreme as many 2003s I have encountered from this trip. All in all, I enjoy Trapet’s style. His Chambertin consists of old style elements of underbrush (more sous-bois than sauvage), smoke, earth, and yet it is admirably graceful and refined. Although all his wines are quite rich in texture, you could still find elegance, purity and details in each of his wines, and more importantly, it is well delineated, weightless and balanced. There is this sense of sensuousness and gracefulness which permeates all of his cuvées. My favorite of all is his Latricières-Chambertin: very elegant, precise and with such pronounced minerality to few Latricières-Chambertin I’ve come across manages to display.
Day Two (November 15, 2005)
Before I went about with my morning tasting session at Domaine Fourrier, I would like to highlight that this domaine is a Gevrey-Chambertin producer although Jean-Marie also makes wines from Vougeot, Morey-Saints-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny. The 9 hectares estate is currently managed and run by Jean-Marie Fourrier, a fifth generation vigneron. Jean-Marie is assisted by his English wife, Vicki.
I knew nothing about this domaine before my appointment. I was indeed excited by the passionate Jean-Marie Fourrier and emotionally affected by his well-crafted burgundies. A brief background of Jean-Marie: He is among the very few privileged enough to be taught by the great Henri Jayer before the latter announced his retirement in 1989 (as we all know, he physical retirement was very well extended till 1999). Afterwards, he had a stint in Domaine Drouhin in Oregon in 1993. When he returned to his family domaine in 1994, he was immediately put in charge of the domaine by his father, Jean-Claude Fourrier. He never looked back since.
Fourrier’s style reminded me a lot of Pascal Lachaux’s of Domaine Arnoux. It is a sexy juice – spicy, occasionally earthy with lush and seductively sweet personality, sappiness, exceptional purity, firmness acidity and precision. Perhaps Fourrier’s wine has an edge better vibrancy and clarity, and the mineral quality which is not found in Arnoux’s wines.
He adopts a few philosophies from Jayer. Low yield, Fourrier only produces 7 hectares out of his estate 9 hectares of vineyard; and old vine, he sold all his grape that vine is less than 30 years of age to the local négociants. In his portfolio, the younger vines of all is his Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots, which is already a 40-year-old; Like Jayer, he does not practice green harvest. As much as he would like to turn his vineyard to la biodynamie, the tiny vineyard holdings, and with his neighbors using chemical sprays that are likely to contaminate his own vines, he has opted instead for the use of clonal to combat the disease. His clone was select through sélection massale, or mass selection from his older parcel of vineyard whose vines average between 40 to 94 year-old.
Fourrier is very strict about grape sorting or triage, and is quite sure that it should be done in the vineyard in order to avoid hail or disease contamination. Yet at the same time he worries about the risks of oxidation. So in the meantime, it is done in the cuvèrie. The timing for harvesting is extremely crucial for him, which explains why he hires the largest team of harvesters in the whole of Gevrey to ensure he pick at the optimal ripeness window without losing the natural acidity.
Fourrier’s style of winemaking is the first I have heard of and is clearly unique in Burgundy. He destems 100%, followed by a cold maceration for 6 days with 3-4 punch-downs per day. The more vigorous pump-over was not practiced by this producer, as well as extended maceration. Color is never the main concern in Fourrier’s wine. Unlike Jayer, who is not shy to utilize 100% new oak barrels, Fourrier uses only up to 20% of new barrels for aging. Fourrier dislikes his wines to carry too much new oak flavor and for him, oak barrels are but a tool to perform micro-oxygenation. Another interesting point is that like Jacques Lardière of Louis Jadot, he believes that the better the cru, the less new oak is required. This flies in the face of most burgundians who advocate new oak treatment.
There are no racking or bâtonnage conducted here, as Fourrier believes in retaining the carbon dioxide to protect his wines again oxidation. As a result, no sulphur was added until bottling. Fourrier’s preference of working with CO2 in contrast to the modern trend of pre-oxidizing of wines to make it more supple, such as the use of micro-oxygenation is very much welcome by me indeed as I appreciate acidity, purity, vibrancy and details as opposed to premature oxidized-sweetness, or dehydrate-sweetness. Since the wines would naturally clear after 16-20 months without racking, no fining or filtrationis carried out for his wines. As a result, there are potential traces of CO2 which can be found in the finished wine, the reason for which Fourrier highly recommends decanting his wines when it is young.
You can always expect Fourrier’s wines to possess a transparent and elegant personality. Very often it is vibrantly bright, often leaning toward red rather than black fruits. Exceptionally fresh, pure and racy, it is a wine of finesse, details and clarity. To sum up, a truly terroir-driven wine that will be admired and appreciated by all hardcore burgundy fanatics.
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