Appellation in wine, works more like the identity of wine. It gives you the particular area, where vines are grow, how the sunshine, rainfall, soil type (and structure), exposure, and elevation that attributes the character of the resulting wine. "Without it? Wine is existent in a gravity-free state, without the pull of place that allows us to trace and track the possible reasons for its distinction", Matt Kramer has so correctly pointed out.
European (or Old World) has long been the pioneer in mapping their appellation. They understood the uniqueness of the wine lies on the piece of earth, not in the hands of man. Let ask ourselves, how many given years can a winemaker make his wine? Thirty? Forty? How many wine he made he could possibly see the maturity? Maybe half. The collective knowledge of each appellation requires generation after generation, man can only learn and discover which grape varieties is best suited for which location. In this case, winemaker is merely a servant here rather than the master. The immortality lies on the appellation. Obviously appellation must be able to deliver some sort of goodness in order to worth a while. This means, when both isolated land and grape are well match. It can produce the uniqueness that is equal by no others.
All old world wine-growing nations like France, Italy and Spain have their appellation origin system. However, what makes them different with new world's appellation system is, the old world, "controlled" the appellation of origin (France - appellation d'origine contrôlée; Italy - denominazione d'origine controllata; Spain - denominacion de origen calificada), in other words, they guarantee the authenticity as well as the quality of where the wine is from, which all new world geographic indications failed to address. Unlike old world, new world do not have the luxury of time to study and delineate their sites much like those exquisitely detailed appellations of Burgundy (burgundy's vineyard existed since sixth century), where not only they have isolated which grape suit for which soil, but which vineyard is superior than the one next to it, with their best vineyards are designated grand cru, then come the second, premier cru. Timescale is needed for the new world, much like when it took the old world decades, centuries to see the turning of the wheel. Perhaps what has been observed by Robert Louis Stevenson in 1880s, when he first arrived in the virgin land of California will one day translate into reality.
"Wine in California is still in the experimental stage....one corner of land after another is tried with one kind of grape after another. This is a failure; that is better; ...so, bit by bit, they group about for their Clos Vougeot and Lafite...yield inimitable fragrance and soft fire; those virtuous Bonanzas, where the soil has sublimated under sun and stars to something finer, and the wine is bottled poetry; these still lie undiscovered...undisturbed. But there they bide their hour, awaiting their Columbus; and the nature nurses and prepares them. The smack of California earth shall linger on the palate of your grandson."
European (or Old World) has long been the pioneer in mapping their appellation. They understood the uniqueness of the wine lies on the piece of earth, not in the hands of man. Let ask ourselves, how many given years can a winemaker make his wine? Thirty? Forty? How many wine he made he could possibly see the maturity? Maybe half. The collective knowledge of each appellation requires generation after generation, man can only learn and discover which grape varieties is best suited for which location. In this case, winemaker is merely a servant here rather than the master. The immortality lies on the appellation. Obviously appellation must be able to deliver some sort of goodness in order to worth a while. This means, when both isolated land and grape are well match. It can produce the uniqueness that is equal by no others.
All old world wine-growing nations like France, Italy and Spain have their appellation origin system. However, what makes them different with new world's appellation system is, the old world, "controlled" the appellation of origin (France - appellation d'origine contrôlée; Italy - denominazione d'origine controllata; Spain - denominacion de origen calificada), in other words, they guarantee the authenticity as well as the quality of where the wine is from, which all new world geographic indications failed to address. Unlike old world, new world do not have the luxury of time to study and delineate their sites much like those exquisitely detailed appellations of Burgundy (burgundy's vineyard existed since sixth century), where not only they have isolated which grape suit for which soil, but which vineyard is superior than the one next to it, with their best vineyards are designated grand cru, then come the second, premier cru. Timescale is needed for the new world, much like when it took the old world decades, centuries to see the turning of the wheel. Perhaps what has been observed by Robert Louis Stevenson in 1880s, when he first arrived in the virgin land of California will one day translate into reality.
"Wine in California is still in the experimental stage....one corner of land after another is tried with one kind of grape after another. This is a failure; that is better; ...so, bit by bit, they group about for their Clos Vougeot and Lafite...yield inimitable fragrance and soft fire; those virtuous Bonanzas, where the soil has sublimated under sun and stars to something finer, and the wine is bottled poetry; these still lie undiscovered...undisturbed. But there they bide their hour, awaiting their Columbus; and the nature nurses and prepares them. The smack of California earth shall linger on the palate of your grandson."
The following are some of the unique vineyards in California that should earn their appellation.
Spottswoode - Sense of the Woman
The team behind this family-owned estate is almost entirely woman. Current president of Spottswoode, Beth Novak Milliken, is the youngest daughter of Mary Weber Novak. Recently, Jennifer Williams has taken over from Rosemary Cakebread as the estate winemaker and vineyard manager, while Rosemary remained as the consultant winemaker. Spottswoode estate vineyard is located just off Rutherford, after the town of St. Helena along highway 29. The organically farm vineyard consisted of sand and clay loam soil is making some of the most sumptuous yet refine elegant Cabernets in California. Whether is due to the touch of the ladies or simply is the "terroir". Year-in-year-out, apart from the mother's nature would shown her temperament on the wine, you can always expect that sense of feminine, that weightless grace from this Cabernets. With the 2003 vintage, Spottswoode is releasing their "second-vine" label called, Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvigon. This wine is fruit sourced from the estate grown vineyard where the vines are younger. Despite that, they received no less rigorous vineyard treatment as the estate Cabernets.
Spottswoode - Sense of the Woman
The team behind this family-owned estate is almost entirely woman. Current president of Spottswoode, Beth Novak Milliken, is the youngest daughter of Mary Weber Novak. Recently, Jennifer Williams has taken over from Rosemary Cakebread as the estate winemaker and vineyard manager, while Rosemary remained as the consultant winemaker. Spottswoode estate vineyard is located just off Rutherford, after the town of St. Helena along highway 29. The organically farm vineyard consisted of sand and clay loam soil is making some of the most sumptuous yet refine elegant Cabernets in California. Whether is due to the touch of the ladies or simply is the "terroir". Year-in-year-out, apart from the mother's nature would shown her temperament on the wine, you can always expect that sense of feminine, that weightless grace from this Cabernets. With the 2003 vintage, Spottswoode is releasing their "second-vine" label called, Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvigon. This wine is fruit sourced from the estate grown vineyard where the vines are younger. Despite that, they received no less rigorous vineyard treatment as the estate Cabernets.
Forman - Euro-Beautiful
I knew Ric Forman for nearly a decade. He has always come across as one of the most honest winemaker in California in terms of the way he price his wines. He often criticized his peers for over charging their wines and he value the important of wine being part of the culture, part of the dinning experience, but not a commodity nor the product for the rich. Forman winemaking approached has a huge influence from the European wine style. He cherish brightness, vibrancy, elegant and finesse. His early style of wine often started it life slowly, with austere and tough when young, turned mallow and soft with age. He is also among the pioneer in blocking the malolactic, in order to preserved the natural acidity to portrait his idea Chablis-style Chardonnay. Despite recently his Cabernets is moving toward much riper, fuller style. However, the elegant, the mountain-vineyard wine structured, is still evident everywhere in his wine.
I knew Ric Forman for nearly a decade. He has always come across as one of the most honest winemaker in California in terms of the way he price his wines. He often criticized his peers for over charging their wines and he value the important of wine being part of the culture, part of the dinning experience, but not a commodity nor the product for the rich. Forman winemaking approached has a huge influence from the European wine style. He cherish brightness, vibrancy, elegant and finesse. His early style of wine often started it life slowly, with austere and tough when young, turned mallow and soft with age. He is also among the pioneer in blocking the malolactic, in order to preserved the natural acidity to portrait his idea Chablis-style Chardonnay. Despite recently his Cabernets is moving toward much riper, fuller style. However, the elegant, the mountain-vineyard wine structured, is still evident everywhere in his wine.
Philip Togni - The Mountain Goat
Philip Togni is among one of the most experienced winemaker in California. His is one of the student of the famous French oenologist, late Emile Peynaud (the same person that taught Michel Rolland) and has produced a vintage in Chateau Lascombes in Margaux. He has made wine in France, Algeria, Chile before returning to California where he produces wines for Chapellet and Cuvaison. He eventually set his foot in Spring Mountain and made his first vintage of 1983 with only 300 cases. Togni despite his small built, he is a real fighter. He has in the past fought for Phylloxera, pierce's disease (vine disease), grassy-winged sharp-shooters, despite he has pull-out and stop making his delicious Sauvignon Blanc, but his Cabernets has never been better and among one of the most unique Cabernets of California. One tasted his opulent, voluptuous Cabernets, it would be hard to imagine they will age well. However, having tasted several time of his vertical that goes back in the mid 80s, I am convinced that his Cabernets not only aged gracefully, it has overtime trimmed off the early baby-fat and turned more classic Bordeaux like.
Philip Togni is among one of the most experienced winemaker in California. His is one of the student of the famous French oenologist, late Emile Peynaud (the same person that taught Michel Rolland) and has produced a vintage in Chateau Lascombes in Margaux. He has made wine in France, Algeria, Chile before returning to California where he produces wines for Chapellet and Cuvaison. He eventually set his foot in Spring Mountain and made his first vintage of 1983 with only 300 cases. Togni despite his small built, he is a real fighter. He has in the past fought for Phylloxera, pierce's disease (vine disease), grassy-winged sharp-shooters, despite he has pull-out and stop making his delicious Sauvignon Blanc, but his Cabernets has never been better and among one of the most unique Cabernets of California. One tasted his opulent, voluptuous Cabernets, it would be hard to imagine they will age well. However, having tasted several time of his vertical that goes back in the mid 80s, I am convinced that his Cabernets not only aged gracefully, it has overtime trimmed off the early baby-fat and turned more classic Bordeaux like.
David Ramey - The Wine Guru
I first met Ramey, it was during his stint at Dominus Estate (owned by Christian Moueix of Petrus). We have subsequently met again in a Chardonnay seminar where he spoke to me lengthily on indigenous yeasts and malolactic fermentation. His work on selection massale or mass selection of old Wente, Robert Young & Long Vineyard clone for his chardonnay, also inspired others to work beyond the clonal select. I have always been a great admired of Ramey Hyde Vineyard chardonnay, in fact, we have such argument each time we meet, whether his Hudson Vineyard was better than his Hyde. Obviously, I've won the debate, where the unique cool-pitched, earth-mineral of Hyde vineyard was later acknowledge by most American critics as the higher rated chardonnay from Ramey's portfolio. All Ramey's wines are vineyard designated. He has adopted the old world concept into his new world materials. Currently, added to his existing portfolio are Cabernet Sauvignon from Larkmead Vineyard (valley floor vineyard that set between Spring Mountain and Diamond Mountain) and Pedregal Vineyard (vineyard next to Rudd, Dalla Valle, Phelp's Backus and Screaming Eagle). Ramey's wines are immensely sex-appeal style. However, it does not collapse like most Californian wine that made in the similar approached. The persist length of flavors that found in his wines have everything to do with his admirable work in those unique site as well as his traditional winemaking approached.
I first met Ramey, it was during his stint at Dominus Estate (owned by Christian Moueix of Petrus). We have subsequently met again in a Chardonnay seminar where he spoke to me lengthily on indigenous yeasts and malolactic fermentation. His work on selection massale or mass selection of old Wente, Robert Young & Long Vineyard clone for his chardonnay, also inspired others to work beyond the clonal select. I have always been a great admired of Ramey Hyde Vineyard chardonnay, in fact, we have such argument each time we meet, whether his Hudson Vineyard was better than his Hyde. Obviously, I've won the debate, where the unique cool-pitched, earth-mineral of Hyde vineyard was later acknowledge by most American critics as the higher rated chardonnay from Ramey's portfolio. All Ramey's wines are vineyard designated. He has adopted the old world concept into his new world materials. Currently, added to his existing portfolio are Cabernet Sauvignon from Larkmead Vineyard (valley floor vineyard that set between Spring Mountain and Diamond Mountain) and Pedregal Vineyard (vineyard next to Rudd, Dalla Valle, Phelp's Backus and Screaming Eagle). Ramey's wines are immensely sex-appeal style. However, it does not collapse like most Californian wine that made in the similar approached. The persist length of flavors that found in his wines have everything to do with his admirable work in those unique site as well as his traditional winemaking approached.
Cathy Corison - The First Female Winemaker
Corison is among the very first female winemaker in California. She has spent 10 years working with Chappellet Vineyard before launching her own label. She might not come across as tall as you would expect, but she certainly has a braver heart than anyone with twice her size. Where Californian wine is concerned, she is my hero! She always said to me, "I made wine for myself !" Indeed, do not expect the usual big fruit, judicious oak, diluted cassis-liqueur Cabernets from her. She don't make statement wine that would succeed commercially, but wine of conviction, wine of true soul. Her restrained, discreet, that classic-St.-Julien mineral-earth scented palate that give off crystalline fruit purity and elegant is both unique and unmatched by those cosmetically enhanced, steroid-booster Cabernets that so commonly found in Californian these days.
Corison is among the very first female winemaker in California. She has spent 10 years working with Chappellet Vineyard before launching her own label. She might not come across as tall as you would expect, but she certainly has a braver heart than anyone with twice her size. Where Californian wine is concerned, she is my hero! She always said to me, "I made wine for myself !" Indeed, do not expect the usual big fruit, judicious oak, diluted cassis-liqueur Cabernets from her. She don't make statement wine that would succeed commercially, but wine of conviction, wine of true soul. Her restrained, discreet, that classic-St.-Julien mineral-earth scented palate that give off crystalline fruit purity and elegant is both unique and unmatched by those cosmetically enhanced, steroid-booster Cabernets that so commonly found in Californian these days.
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