This posting, we will have a closer look at this mystique wine region. No wine region other than burgundy has the appellation system, the land, the people, the winemaking and ultimately their wines that are so complicated and vast that one would need a lifetime to fully understand their “golden slops’. Like its fickle grape, pinot noir, is clearly the most demanding wine to made by any winemaker’s standard. The complexity of burgundy’s classification, vineyard, vigneron and winemaking styles are equally challenging for anyone who attempts to write a book about this area.
The first book I read about burgundy was written by Serena Sutcliffe. Subsequently, after my first visit to burgundy in 1992, I bought Remington Norman’s book, “Great Domaine of Burgundy” in a bookstore near Hospice de Beaune. Later, I also read other burgundy books by Robert Parker, Clive Coates, Anthony Hanson, and Nicolas Faith…etc. Still, I was at lost after reading all these books. I struggled to put all the puzzles together - the diversity, the knowledge required to know each producer, each premier cru (562 plots), grand cru vineyards (33 plots), and not to mention the different bottling from the same producer, the huge contrast in each vintage performance. All are confusing enough to stop anyone for learning more about burgundy. Over the years, I have paid constant visits to this area and have taken every given opportunity to taste as many burgundy wines as possible. Today, I am in a more comfortable position to talk about burgundy and even give advice on buying burgundy.
I have no desire to run through all the historical and geographical aspects of burgundy, which you can easily obtain from the above-mentioned authors. Instead, in the following paragraphs, I intend to share with you the people that signify burgundy, my favorite domaine, the emerging young producers and my recommended buying tips for burgundy.
The “Dirt” Factor
Perhaps, one of the most obvious differences between New and Old worlds pinot noir has to do with the “dirt” factor. The famous pinot noir specialist in Australia, Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda once said, what he was trying to achieve year-in-year-out in his wine is the “dirt” flavor that commonly found in Burgundy.
New-World Pinot Noir has long been criticized for being a “fruit-bomb” with wine that lacks the complexity that only came with aging. Indeed, there are not many new world pinot noirs that are capable of withstanding the test of time. Many of them will begin to rapidly age after 4-5 years, losing color, acidity and fruits. The early lush, velvety, bright, sweet charming personality eventually resembles a balloon losing air, turning lean, fruitless and dry with age. The sweet, ripe primarily fruit-driven new world pinot noir don’t seem to age the same way as Burgundy - the secondary, more complex and age-flavor (like dirt, mushroom, underbrush, wet earth) will kick-in, and the hard-edge, tannin and acid will further integrated with the early discreet fruits. The depth of burgundy has becoming more obvious when the wine shades away the youthful tannin and acid. During my past tasting experiences, I only encountered few exceptional new world Pinot Noirs from old Chalone, Rochioli’s single vineyard, William-Selyem’s Allen & Rochioli vineyard from the early and mid-90s that still tasted well after a decade. I have yet came across any Australian or New Zealand Pinot Noir that lasted that long without losing the liveliness and varietal character. They simply aged and lost all their pinot noir qualities. Even for the best examples of aged new world pinot noir, they rarely pass for being a “village” burgundy quality in my blind tasting. They simply do not improve in intensity and complexity like a well-cellared burgundy from a premier or grand cru vineyard.
I continue to be intrigued and enthusiastic when I encounter a producer such as Radio-Coteau, Rochioli, Kooyong, Moondarra from new world that is so closely reminded me of Burgundy in their early life. Over the years, I have adjusted my approach for new and old world pinot noir. I no longer compare both continents in the similar league. I am convinced both pinot noirs have their edges and should be viewed and accessed differently. New World pinot noir give early pleasures, the attractive luxurious sweet berries, lust, creamy palate, one need to pay an arm and a leg to obtain the similar mouth-feel textured from burgundy. Equally, all new world pinot noirs should best be consumed when their ripe fruits are vibrant and intact. Do not expect the new world pinot noir to age the same way as burgundy. They are simply produced from different growing condition, climate, soil, vine-age…etc. As for burgundy, a premier or grand cru burgundy from a reputable producer in a great year require a good 5 to 8 years before the wine can truly unveil its quality. Anyone who rushes to drink these too soon will be disappointed and will not be able to see the full potential. Patience and knowledge is the essential element to fully appreciate burgundy.
The Secrete of Burgundy Winemaking
Formula One - All winemakers’ attempts to producer pinot noir outside burgundy have often looked upon burgundy as their qualitative yardstick. The Burgundian winemaking style has long been the reference point that best expresses pinot noir, whose grape is also known as the winemaker’s nightmare. Despite only one grape being utilized for all red burgundy, in talking to the producers of burgundy, you will soon realize the complexity on the subject of making pinot noir. Each producer in burgundy seems to hold a different view on how a great burgundy should be. Each of them practiced and made their burgundy according to their formula where they believed best expressed their house style. Interestingly, they all seemingly made great wines! It is hard to pen down which winemaking method is the best. Some practices cold maceration while others not, some destalk, other prefer whole cluster, some like slow, long fermentation, others let the temperature rise naturally. Even when it came to aging, the preferences in which forest the oak barrel is from (Allier, Tronçais, Nèvre, Vosges), percentage of new or old, bottle direct from barrel or after assemblage…etc. There is no singular formula in making great burgundy.
I have always amazed by those whom think winemaking or grape growing are some sort of “co-ca-co-la” soft drink recipe. The talented young winemaker of Comte Armand, Benjamin Leroux once said, “there is no recipe and nothing is systematic about winemaking. It is more a comprehension of the vintage and a savoir-faire based on the style and needs of each wine.” Recently, one famous American critic was questioned for his support on how all great burgundy should be harvested late at surmaturité level (pick based on skin ripeness instead of sugar level). Interestingly, the critic previously idolized and supported the burgundy model portrayed by Madam Leroy of domaine Leroy. Ironically, in 2002 vintage, she was among the earliest to pick. This clearly contradicted the American critic who in his early statement on late-picked recipe for making great burgundy.
Non-Interventional - The other philosophy that is highly glamorized by some critics and winemakers alike is the “non-interventionist” winemaking practice. They often look upon France, or burgundy, where traditional wine making with little or no modern equipment, no knowledge of oenology, where fermentation occurred naturally, no inoculate of culture yeast, no acid, sugar adjust…minimalism, hands-off winemaking…and, voila! Here comes the brilliant bottles of wine! The famous Australian wine critic, Jeremy Oliver once said to me, “Only if you are making vinaigrette, the theory of non-interventional winemaking truly exists!”
The famous winemaker of Hospice de Beaune and former winemaker for Domaine Leroy, Andre Porchéret is perhaps the most honest and outspoken winemaker of burgundy. In his interview by Wine Spectator, Per-Henrik Mansson, he admitted the practiced of acid adjust and sugar adding (chaptalization) in his Hospice de Beaune wines. He argued that, such practice is not only harmless, but improves the quality of wine in weather-trouble vintages. His move has later outlawed by the French authority in 1998.
My conclusion is, human interaction or involvement in wine is inevitable and what signifies a skill winemaker is how he or she can balance it personal style (or house-style) without losing the uniqueness of its individual vineyard site, cru and the vintage. Marie-Andrée of domaine Mugneret-Gibourg once said, “You should make wine like the way you bring up your children; you bring them up how you can, not always how you’d like. They can’t reach the same level, but you always have surprises!”
The Vintage
Weather is extremely crucial for pinot noir. This fragile grape is sensitive to weather and equally reflects clearer vintage definition than any other grapes. The weather is a key factor in triggering “terroir” quality in new or old world pinot noir. For example, the freakish heat in 2003 vintage clearly made one of the more new world style burgundy. The low-acid, lust, obvious alcohol, with more than usual new oak treatment all seem to resembling new world pinot noir in quality. Equally, it can be said that 2002 in California made some of the most burgundy look alike vintage. The prolonging vegetative cycle with unusual long hang-time for the grape resulted in better acid accumulation. All these contributed to some of the most elegant and pure California pinot noir I have tasted from recent years. Natural acidity (I do not refer to those unripe fruit from troublesome, diluted year or over crop vineyard) seems to be the key contribution to better color appearance, verve, purity, detail, overall equilibrium and aging for wine. Historically, some of the great “terroir” vintages in burgundy are 1972 (1st. week Oct), 1988 (Sept 29), 1993 (Sept 15- Oct 1), 1996 (late Sept), 2001 seem all to be coming from a delayed harvest which was caused either by rain interruption or cool growing season. Interestingly, such challenging vintages also seem to produce low yielding, small clusters that were responsible for further intensifying the pinot noir.
Jayer’s Method
When one talk about the most influential producer or domaine in burgundy, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti came immediately in mind. I do not undermine the important of this great domaine with their monople vineyard such as Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, which are the region’s most precious, individualistic and finest vineyards. I also do not stop anyone for admiring the former co-owner of this historical estate, Madam Lalou-Bize Leroy with her extraordinary wines from her own domaine. However, those two producers are the extreme examples where the unique qualities cannot be reproduce. Madam Leroy’s domaine d’Auvenay are biodynamique farmed with fruits coming from possible the lower yielding of all burgundy (15 hectoliters per hectare compared to most serious burgundy whose yield range from 30-40 hectoliters per hectare), she hand-sort grape-by-grape, and even the pigeage by hand. Leroy’s wines command high prices due to her high operational costs and microscopic production. Such luxurious wines simply are meant for the niche market.
DRC on the other hand, has priceless historical vineyards, which are not only monopoly owned by the Villaine and Roch families, but qualitatively above all burgundy vineyards. After ten over years of wine drinking, I can still recall my experience with DRC’s 1978 La Tâche and 1966 Richebourg, which remained to be the most memorable burgundy experiences I had. The incredible depth yet at the same time classy, elegant and impeccable balance. I can hardly take my hands off the bottles.
Apart from those two “indispensable” producers, the idol of all pinot noir winemaker is the great Henri Jayer. All pinot noir specialists in the world are trying to emulate Jayer’s winemaking style. Any wines regardless of his humble Bourgogne rouge or his more famous, illustrated Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, Clos Parantoux, can magically transformed it into some of the most sublimely and age-worth burgundy. My recent tasting of his Echezeaux 98 has once again confirmed that he is truly the master of his own craft. The brilliant, sparkle ruby red color, with the pristinely pure fruits in marvelously concentrated layers, yet energize palate. Nothing is intrusive or overbearing here. Each component seems so harmony and balance, and very, very fine.
Henri Jayer, 83 recently recovered from a health problem and declared in 2001 to stop making wines after 62 years in the business. He will continue to act as the advisor for his nephew, Emmanuel Rouget, and has recently rented his final (one-third) plot of Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux to Rouget in 2002. The 50-year-old Cros Parantoux vineyard was previously resurrected and made famous by Jayer.
Jayer is passionate in both winemaking and growing grape.
In the Vineyard - He believed there is no substitute for old vine and low yields and he prune his vineyard ruthlessly. Interestingly, Jayer does not believe in green harvest to reduce crop, he think that, such practice is not necessary for his old-vine vineyard. He also disregards the practice of biodynamic farming, which he thinks is a big hoax, but he acknowledges that no chemicals should be used in the vineyard and anti-rot treatments should be only apply when is necessary. Jayer also tales plowing seriously, which his experience taught him that plowing remove the weeds and surface root to help strengthen his vines. He likes ripe fruits, but disagrees with those who pick their fruits too ripe (sur-maturité). He has previously made such statement about burgundy, “Black is not the colour of Burgundy. You must be able to see through a glass of it. Pinot has a pretty red, glistening and shimmering like cat's eyes, sparkling like a diamond. It is a wine that enchants with its perfume. It must be fine and elegant, which does not exclude a solid structure."
In the cellar – Jayer will first receive the grape at sorting table to remove all unripe grapes. He often eliminates up to 15-20% of the total crop. All grapes are destemmed and cold macerated for up to a week depending on the vintage. He does not associate his cold soak method with the controversial Méthode Accad, as he used far less SO2 than Accad. He further added his practices of maceration préfermentaire (pre-fermentation) aiming for aromatic quality but not color. He is making pinot noir here not syrah. Jayer prefers open-topped concrete fermentation vats to make his Pinot Noirs. He believes that the concrete vats are better than wood vats because there are less chance of bacteria infections and also better heat retention than stainless steel which results in more consistent fermentation temperatures. He ferments naturally until the sugar is completely dry and rack into 100% new French oak barrels with medium toast. Regardless of vintage, only new oak is utilized and came solely from the forest of Tronçais. “du Tronçais, point final!” said Jayer. Jayer selects his barrel by smell and never pre-treats his barrel; no rising, no salt solution. He is extremely particular and careful about the “élevage”, which he considers the most crucial stage of winemaking where quality can be diminish by sloppy practices. He never pumps and never exposes the wine to oxygen except during racking and bottling, which was done by hand, cask by cask at chez Jayer. After 18 months of aging, the wine is fine with egg white and bottled without filtration. Today, Jayer’s brilliant wines and his winemaking method continue to adore and inspire many new generation pinot noir specialists in the world.
I would like to acknowledge that the above Henri Jayer write-up was compiled from various articles and interviews on Henri Jayer by Allen Meadows’ Burghound, Martine Saunier, Bernard Burtschy and Per-Henrik Mansson of Wine Spectator.
The first book I read about burgundy was written by Serena Sutcliffe. Subsequently, after my first visit to burgundy in 1992, I bought Remington Norman’s book, “Great Domaine of Burgundy” in a bookstore near Hospice de Beaune. Later, I also read other burgundy books by Robert Parker, Clive Coates, Anthony Hanson, and Nicolas Faith…etc. Still, I was at lost after reading all these books. I struggled to put all the puzzles together - the diversity, the knowledge required to know each producer, each premier cru (562 plots), grand cru vineyards (33 plots), and not to mention the different bottling from the same producer, the huge contrast in each vintage performance. All are confusing enough to stop anyone for learning more about burgundy. Over the years, I have paid constant visits to this area and have taken every given opportunity to taste as many burgundy wines as possible. Today, I am in a more comfortable position to talk about burgundy and even give advice on buying burgundy.
I have no desire to run through all the historical and geographical aspects of burgundy, which you can easily obtain from the above-mentioned authors. Instead, in the following paragraphs, I intend to share with you the people that signify burgundy, my favorite domaine, the emerging young producers and my recommended buying tips for burgundy.
The “Dirt” Factor
Perhaps, one of the most obvious differences between New and Old worlds pinot noir has to do with the “dirt” factor. The famous pinot noir specialist in Australia, Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda once said, what he was trying to achieve year-in-year-out in his wine is the “dirt” flavor that commonly found in Burgundy.
New-World Pinot Noir has long been criticized for being a “fruit-bomb” with wine that lacks the complexity that only came with aging. Indeed, there are not many new world pinot noirs that are capable of withstanding the test of time. Many of them will begin to rapidly age after 4-5 years, losing color, acidity and fruits. The early lush, velvety, bright, sweet charming personality eventually resembles a balloon losing air, turning lean, fruitless and dry with age. The sweet, ripe primarily fruit-driven new world pinot noir don’t seem to age the same way as Burgundy - the secondary, more complex and age-flavor (like dirt, mushroom, underbrush, wet earth) will kick-in, and the hard-edge, tannin and acid will further integrated with the early discreet fruits. The depth of burgundy has becoming more obvious when the wine shades away the youthful tannin and acid. During my past tasting experiences, I only encountered few exceptional new world Pinot Noirs from old Chalone, Rochioli’s single vineyard, William-Selyem’s Allen & Rochioli vineyard from the early and mid-90s that still tasted well after a decade. I have yet came across any Australian or New Zealand Pinot Noir that lasted that long without losing the liveliness and varietal character. They simply aged and lost all their pinot noir qualities. Even for the best examples of aged new world pinot noir, they rarely pass for being a “village” burgundy quality in my blind tasting. They simply do not improve in intensity and complexity like a well-cellared burgundy from a premier or grand cru vineyard.
I continue to be intrigued and enthusiastic when I encounter a producer such as Radio-Coteau, Rochioli, Kooyong, Moondarra from new world that is so closely reminded me of Burgundy in their early life. Over the years, I have adjusted my approach for new and old world pinot noir. I no longer compare both continents in the similar league. I am convinced both pinot noirs have their edges and should be viewed and accessed differently. New World pinot noir give early pleasures, the attractive luxurious sweet berries, lust, creamy palate, one need to pay an arm and a leg to obtain the similar mouth-feel textured from burgundy. Equally, all new world pinot noirs should best be consumed when their ripe fruits are vibrant and intact. Do not expect the new world pinot noir to age the same way as burgundy. They are simply produced from different growing condition, climate, soil, vine-age…etc. As for burgundy, a premier or grand cru burgundy from a reputable producer in a great year require a good 5 to 8 years before the wine can truly unveil its quality. Anyone who rushes to drink these too soon will be disappointed and will not be able to see the full potential. Patience and knowledge is the essential element to fully appreciate burgundy.
The Secrete of Burgundy Winemaking
Formula One - All winemakers’ attempts to producer pinot noir outside burgundy have often looked upon burgundy as their qualitative yardstick. The Burgundian winemaking style has long been the reference point that best expresses pinot noir, whose grape is also known as the winemaker’s nightmare. Despite only one grape being utilized for all red burgundy, in talking to the producers of burgundy, you will soon realize the complexity on the subject of making pinot noir. Each producer in burgundy seems to hold a different view on how a great burgundy should be. Each of them practiced and made their burgundy according to their formula where they believed best expressed their house style. Interestingly, they all seemingly made great wines! It is hard to pen down which winemaking method is the best. Some practices cold maceration while others not, some destalk, other prefer whole cluster, some like slow, long fermentation, others let the temperature rise naturally. Even when it came to aging, the preferences in which forest the oak barrel is from (Allier, Tronçais, Nèvre, Vosges), percentage of new or old, bottle direct from barrel or after assemblage…etc. There is no singular formula in making great burgundy.
I have always amazed by those whom think winemaking or grape growing are some sort of “co-ca-co-la” soft drink recipe. The talented young winemaker of Comte Armand, Benjamin Leroux once said, “there is no recipe and nothing is systematic about winemaking. It is more a comprehension of the vintage and a savoir-faire based on the style and needs of each wine.” Recently, one famous American critic was questioned for his support on how all great burgundy should be harvested late at surmaturité level (pick based on skin ripeness instead of sugar level). Interestingly, the critic previously idolized and supported the burgundy model portrayed by Madam Leroy of domaine Leroy. Ironically, in 2002 vintage, she was among the earliest to pick. This clearly contradicted the American critic who in his early statement on late-picked recipe for making great burgundy.
Non-Interventional - The other philosophy that is highly glamorized by some critics and winemakers alike is the “non-interventionist” winemaking practice. They often look upon France, or burgundy, where traditional wine making with little or no modern equipment, no knowledge of oenology, where fermentation occurred naturally, no inoculate of culture yeast, no acid, sugar adjust…minimalism, hands-off winemaking…and, voila! Here comes the brilliant bottles of wine! The famous Australian wine critic, Jeremy Oliver once said to me, “Only if you are making vinaigrette, the theory of non-interventional winemaking truly exists!”
The famous winemaker of Hospice de Beaune and former winemaker for Domaine Leroy, Andre Porchéret is perhaps the most honest and outspoken winemaker of burgundy. In his interview by Wine Spectator, Per-Henrik Mansson, he admitted the practiced of acid adjust and sugar adding (chaptalization) in his Hospice de Beaune wines. He argued that, such practice is not only harmless, but improves the quality of wine in weather-trouble vintages. His move has later outlawed by the French authority in 1998.
My conclusion is, human interaction or involvement in wine is inevitable and what signifies a skill winemaker is how he or she can balance it personal style (or house-style) without losing the uniqueness of its individual vineyard site, cru and the vintage. Marie-Andrée of domaine Mugneret-Gibourg once said, “You should make wine like the way you bring up your children; you bring them up how you can, not always how you’d like. They can’t reach the same level, but you always have surprises!”
The Vintage
Weather is extremely crucial for pinot noir. This fragile grape is sensitive to weather and equally reflects clearer vintage definition than any other grapes. The weather is a key factor in triggering “terroir” quality in new or old world pinot noir. For example, the freakish heat in 2003 vintage clearly made one of the more new world style burgundy. The low-acid, lust, obvious alcohol, with more than usual new oak treatment all seem to resembling new world pinot noir in quality. Equally, it can be said that 2002 in California made some of the most burgundy look alike vintage. The prolonging vegetative cycle with unusual long hang-time for the grape resulted in better acid accumulation. All these contributed to some of the most elegant and pure California pinot noir I have tasted from recent years. Natural acidity (I do not refer to those unripe fruit from troublesome, diluted year or over crop vineyard) seems to be the key contribution to better color appearance, verve, purity, detail, overall equilibrium and aging for wine. Historically, some of the great “terroir” vintages in burgundy are 1972 (1st. week Oct), 1988 (Sept 29), 1993 (Sept 15- Oct 1), 1996 (late Sept), 2001 seem all to be coming from a delayed harvest which was caused either by rain interruption or cool growing season. Interestingly, such challenging vintages also seem to produce low yielding, small clusters that were responsible for further intensifying the pinot noir.
Jayer’s Method
When one talk about the most influential producer or domaine in burgundy, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti came immediately in mind. I do not undermine the important of this great domaine with their monople vineyard such as Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, which are the region’s most precious, individualistic and finest vineyards. I also do not stop anyone for admiring the former co-owner of this historical estate, Madam Lalou-Bize Leroy with her extraordinary wines from her own domaine. However, those two producers are the extreme examples where the unique qualities cannot be reproduce. Madam Leroy’s domaine d’Auvenay are biodynamique farmed with fruits coming from possible the lower yielding of all burgundy (15 hectoliters per hectare compared to most serious burgundy whose yield range from 30-40 hectoliters per hectare), she hand-sort grape-by-grape, and even the pigeage by hand. Leroy’s wines command high prices due to her high operational costs and microscopic production. Such luxurious wines simply are meant for the niche market.
DRC on the other hand, has priceless historical vineyards, which are not only monopoly owned by the Villaine and Roch families, but qualitatively above all burgundy vineyards. After ten over years of wine drinking, I can still recall my experience with DRC’s 1978 La Tâche and 1966 Richebourg, which remained to be the most memorable burgundy experiences I had. The incredible depth yet at the same time classy, elegant and impeccable balance. I can hardly take my hands off the bottles.
Apart from those two “indispensable” producers, the idol of all pinot noir winemaker is the great Henri Jayer. All pinot noir specialists in the world are trying to emulate Jayer’s winemaking style. Any wines regardless of his humble Bourgogne rouge or his more famous, illustrated Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, Clos Parantoux, can magically transformed it into some of the most sublimely and age-worth burgundy. My recent tasting of his Echezeaux 98 has once again confirmed that he is truly the master of his own craft. The brilliant, sparkle ruby red color, with the pristinely pure fruits in marvelously concentrated layers, yet energize palate. Nothing is intrusive or overbearing here. Each component seems so harmony and balance, and very, very fine.
Henri Jayer, 83 recently recovered from a health problem and declared in 2001 to stop making wines after 62 years in the business. He will continue to act as the advisor for his nephew, Emmanuel Rouget, and has recently rented his final (one-third) plot of Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux to Rouget in 2002. The 50-year-old Cros Parantoux vineyard was previously resurrected and made famous by Jayer.
Jayer is passionate in both winemaking and growing grape.
In the Vineyard - He believed there is no substitute for old vine and low yields and he prune his vineyard ruthlessly. Interestingly, Jayer does not believe in green harvest to reduce crop, he think that, such practice is not necessary for his old-vine vineyard. He also disregards the practice of biodynamic farming, which he thinks is a big hoax, but he acknowledges that no chemicals should be used in the vineyard and anti-rot treatments should be only apply when is necessary. Jayer also tales plowing seriously, which his experience taught him that plowing remove the weeds and surface root to help strengthen his vines. He likes ripe fruits, but disagrees with those who pick their fruits too ripe (sur-maturité). He has previously made such statement about burgundy, “Black is not the colour of Burgundy. You must be able to see through a glass of it. Pinot has a pretty red, glistening and shimmering like cat's eyes, sparkling like a diamond. It is a wine that enchants with its perfume. It must be fine and elegant, which does not exclude a solid structure."
In the cellar – Jayer will first receive the grape at sorting table to remove all unripe grapes. He often eliminates up to 15-20% of the total crop. All grapes are destemmed and cold macerated for up to a week depending on the vintage. He does not associate his cold soak method with the controversial Méthode Accad, as he used far less SO2 than Accad. He further added his practices of maceration préfermentaire (pre-fermentation) aiming for aromatic quality but not color. He is making pinot noir here not syrah. Jayer prefers open-topped concrete fermentation vats to make his Pinot Noirs. He believes that the concrete vats are better than wood vats because there are less chance of bacteria infections and also better heat retention than stainless steel which results in more consistent fermentation temperatures. He ferments naturally until the sugar is completely dry and rack into 100% new French oak barrels with medium toast. Regardless of vintage, only new oak is utilized and came solely from the forest of Tronçais. “du Tronçais, point final!” said Jayer. Jayer selects his barrel by smell and never pre-treats his barrel; no rising, no salt solution. He is extremely particular and careful about the “élevage”, which he considers the most crucial stage of winemaking where quality can be diminish by sloppy practices. He never pumps and never exposes the wine to oxygen except during racking and bottling, which was done by hand, cask by cask at chez Jayer. After 18 months of aging, the wine is fine with egg white and bottled without filtration. Today, Jayer’s brilliant wines and his winemaking method continue to adore and inspire many new generation pinot noir specialists in the world.
I would like to acknowledge that the above Henri Jayer write-up was compiled from various articles and interviews on Henri Jayer by Allen Meadows’ Burghound, Martine Saunier, Bernard Burtschy and Per-Henrik Mansson of Wine Spectator.
My Favorite Domaines
I have drunk more burgundy than any other wines. I do not proclaim to be the expert in this field, but over the years, I have found some producers to be more consistent and reliable in displaying the quality I seek. I like burgundy that reflects its producers, its vintages, its unique sites, its crus. I dislike internationalize-style (common style), overriped, oaked, extracted burgundy. My approached is simple, I drink burgundy for it purity, liveliness, delicacy and finesse. I do not expect a burgundy to taste like a syrah. My paste experiences have taught me that it is simpler to choose a burgundy by the producers rather by cru or villages. Is like choosing a restaurant, you should always follow the chef instead the reputation of the restaurant. If you enjoy a particular style portrayed by a certain producer, you would likely enjoy what he or she makes.
In burgundy, the producers are largely divided by two categories, the négociant, producers that rent the vineyard or source fruit from others or the domaines, producers that owned it vineyards. Occasionally, the same producers can owned both négociant and domaine labels. For instant, the case with Domaine Jean Boillot and Maison Henri Boillot.
Louis Jadot Offerings
By far, my favorite négociant firm is Louis Jadot. This impeccably run estate under the talented winemaker, Jacques Lardière’s direction has been consistently turning out some of the most elegant, pure, structured and long-live burgundy. Despite producing broad range of wines from hundreds of different villages, crus in Côte d’Or alone (not to mention those from Macon, Cote Chalonnaise, Beaujolais), Jacques Lardière is capable of orchestrating all the various wines and bringing out their uniqueness. Each wine tastes differently and yet still distinctively, Jadot. “We do not want to impose a common style on all our wines. On the contrary, we encourage each wine to develop its own personality,” said Jacques Lardière.
I have drunk more burgundy than any other wines. I do not proclaim to be the expert in this field, but over the years, I have found some producers to be more consistent and reliable in displaying the quality I seek. I like burgundy that reflects its producers, its vintages, its unique sites, its crus. I dislike internationalize-style (common style), overriped, oaked, extracted burgundy. My approached is simple, I drink burgundy for it purity, liveliness, delicacy and finesse. I do not expect a burgundy to taste like a syrah. My paste experiences have taught me that it is simpler to choose a burgundy by the producers rather by cru or villages. Is like choosing a restaurant, you should always follow the chef instead the reputation of the restaurant. If you enjoy a particular style portrayed by a certain producer, you would likely enjoy what he or she makes.
In burgundy, the producers are largely divided by two categories, the négociant, producers that rent the vineyard or source fruit from others or the domaines, producers that owned it vineyards. Occasionally, the same producers can owned both négociant and domaine labels. For instant, the case with Domaine Jean Boillot and Maison Henri Boillot.
Louis Jadot Offerings
By far, my favorite négociant firm is Louis Jadot. This impeccably run estate under the talented winemaker, Jacques Lardière’s direction has been consistently turning out some of the most elegant, pure, structured and long-live burgundy. Despite producing broad range of wines from hundreds of different villages, crus in Côte d’Or alone (not to mention those from Macon, Cote Chalonnaise, Beaujolais), Jacques Lardière is capable of orchestrating all the various wines and bringing out their uniqueness. Each wine tastes differently and yet still distinctively, Jadot. “We do not want to impose a common style on all our wines. On the contrary, we encourage each wine to develop its own personality,” said Jacques Lardière.
Domaine Jean Boillot & Maison Henri Boillot Offerings
Over the years, I have great pleasure in drinking wine from this fabulous négociant and domaine firm from Pommard. Unlike Jadot, Boillot style is more early accessible and full. Since the domaine was taken over by Jean’s son, Henri Boillot, the quality has soared. The wood handling has becoming subtler after Boillot introduces the 350-litre barrel to age all his cuvee and only 50% new barrel is utilized. Boillot also focuses on preserving better acidity and mineral qualities that resulted in what Stephen Tanzer loudly proclaimed, “how can chardonnay succeed better than with Boillot?” Despite being widely known for his superb white like Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, Boillot made equally impressive red from the appellation of Beaune, Volnay and Pommard. All his reds are ripe and concentrated with noticeable wood present (not excessive). Boillot also owned a négociant business under, Maison Henri Boillot where he produced some fabulous grand cru like Corton Charlemagne, Bâtard Montrachet and Le Montrachet. Look out for our next issue on chardonnay offerings.
Domaine Robert Arnoux –Vosne-Romanée
I believe I was the first to introduce Robert Arnoux’s wine into Singapore market (definitely, first to retailed them). More than 7-8 years ago. During that time sales for burgundy wines were slow, especially the “hard-core” burgundy like Arnoux. I remembered it often took me a long time to clear these wines. However, during that time, prices for Arnoux’s wines were reasonable. I continue to retail these until his 1999 vintage when prices started to be rather high.
Arnoux’s wines require patience and previously, my palate was less refined and lacked experience. I could hardly understand what wines like Arnoux, or Bordeaux such as Lafite, Leoville-Las-Case were trying to accomplish? As I aged, I began to understand and appreciate those minor differences, those subtleness, and those fine details in wines. Arnoux’s wines today, are among those fewer producers in the world that I adore and seek out. Every opportunity to taste a bottle of Arnoux’s wine, regardless of his basic village wines to his top cuvee such as, Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots or Romanée St.-Viviant with it’s telltale spicy cherries, sous-bois (underbrush), earth in an elegance yet structured frame is so unmistakable. The occasionally punchy acidity, keeping the fruit vibrant and at the same time providing the necessary “cut” to hold the overall balance. Compared with other Vosne-Romanée producers, Arnoux’s is not as silky and candied as Jean Grivot, neither as concentrated and full like Anne-Gros, or as elegant, mineral, earth, foresty quality of Mugneret-Gibourg, but in a more refine way. Occasionally, this house can produce such stylish Vosne-Romanée that closely resembles indisputably the finest producer of the region – Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, yet the edgy, pliant palate is still very Arnoux. No new world pinot noir came near to resembling Arnoux’s style. Perhaps the closer encountered was a bottle of Bannockburn Serré (I think is vintage 93 or 94?) tasted at Jeremy Oliver’s house in Melbourne few years ago come close to reminding me of Arnoux. The similar sensuous, spicy-red cherry, with it acid-“cut” feel and wet soil, brett-like element seemingly recall those of Arnoux’s Vosne-Romanée. Unfortunately, the fruits did not hold long in my glass.
The current owner and winemaker of Robert Arnoux (son-in-law of Arnoux), Pascal Lachaux is the most gifted and respected winemaker of his time and has recently announced the releases of his négociant label that bears his name. This new venture will enable him to make wines outside Vosne-Romanée. Wine such as Latricières and Griotte-Chambertin, and even a Richebourg will fulfill his long time goal of experiencing vineyards outside his territory.
Domaine Hubert Lignier – Morey St.-Denis Perhaps, the most shocking news of last year must be the sudden death of Romain Lignier in July 22. He died of brain cancer at the age of 34. Romain Lignier, in which I had the privilege to meet in my early visit to burgundy, was considered by many as one of the most gifted young winemakers alongside such young talents like Benjamin Leroux of Comte Armand, Pascal-Roblet-Monnot, Mounir Saouma & Rotem Brakir of Lucien Le Moine, Frédéric Magnien, Frédéric Mugnier of JF Mugnier and Louis-Michel Liger-Belair of du Vicomte. Besides the domaine holding some of the most important vineyards in Morey St-Denis including grand cru vineyard like Clos de la Roche. Romain like Emmanuel Rouget (which guided by Henri Jayer) has one of the best teachers in the field, his father, Hubert Lignier. After few years of reassurance, in 1991 he took on the responsibility to lead the domaine. “I taught him how to do it and he continued it," said Hubert Lignier. Romain Lignier essentially follows his father’s traditional winemaking practices, where grapes are 100% destemmed and fermentation took place in open-top cement tanks (like Jayer). Only indigenous yeasts are used. The only change Romain made was to introduce cold maceration, which he believed allow for greater extraction. Fermentation is long and lasted between 15-20 days. Subsequently, the wine is aged in oak barrel for 18-24 months with not more than 50% new. Lignier’s wines are dense, intense and structured. More tightly wound and large-scale than most Morey St.-Denis, but Lignier’s telltale, meaty, fleshy and occasionally dusty earth can easily been spotted in all his top cuvée.
Domaine Hubert de Montille – The King of Volnay
Hubert de Montille was recently put on the limelight due to the controversial movie by Jonathan Nossiter’s Modovino. In this documentary movie which dealt with wine globalization where de Montille represented the old guard, traditional winemakers that made wine reflecting its origin and its unique site (that is currently being challenged by the new emerging techno-wavy winemakers with products that are the result of social changes and market demand).
Hubert de Montille is the lawyer for the court of Dijon who took over the running of the family domaine in 1951. During that time, most growers were selling their production to négociants, but instead de Montille were among the earlier ones to introduce domaine-bottling. His last vintage that he sold to Beaune négociant was in 1961.
The winemaking methods in de Montille are very traditional. All grapes are fermented with partial stalk added and at high fermentation temperature in addition to two weeks of maceration. The domaine rarely practices chaptalization and only uses up to 25-30% of new oak for aging. De Montille has often been regarded as the reference point for Volnay – grace and delicacy. If you are looking for sweet, rich, fruit-front, wood-infused pinot noir from this house, you are likely to be disappointed. Hubert de Montille understands his area and is aware that he is making Volnay here not Chambertin. His desire is to display the delicacy, purity of Volnay and to cater to his long-time customer who understands his restrained wines and have the patience to enjoy them with age. Indeed, de Montille’s wine is unique and becoming difficult to find these days. Very age-worthy (often requiring a decade or two to cellar) and the genteelly smooth, subtleness, yet tangy bright and wonderful pure “untainted” (I mean, no trace of overripe sugar, obvious alcohol - he hardly achieves more than 12.5% alcohol and wood sweetness) - essence of pinot noir that is so transparent and lively on the palate.
Hubert’s son, Etienne de Montille has increasingly been involved in the winemaking of recent years. Accordingly to burghound, there seem to have some stylistically changes with the 2003 where fruits are more up-front and alcohol soaring to 13.5-14%. Lets hope Etienne will continue his father’s legacy and keep delivering to us the age-worthy, purest expression of red burgundy.
Domaine Méo-Camuzet – The Next Jayer?
Apart from Emmanuel Rouget, Pascal Marchand the previous winemaker for Comte Armand and currently managing Boisset’s Domaine de la Vougeraie has credited Henri Jayer for influencing his winemaking. Jean-Nicolaz Méo of Méo-Camuzet was in fact the earlier protégé of Jayer. Henri Jayer legacy has everything to do with Méo’s family. In 1945, Jayer began with his winemaking by renting the vineyards from Madam Noirot-Camuzet through French métayage (crop-sharing system) where he made wines from Richebourg, Vosne-Romanée les Brulée and Nuits St.-George Meugèrs. His contract was renewed in 1987 when Noirot- (Jean Nicolas Méo and Henri Jayer) Camuzet passed way and handed over the vineyard to her cousin, Jean Méo. The vineyards that signify Jayer’s achievement, Cros Parantoux was first sold to him by Mr. Roblot in 1951. Jayer acquired another parcel from Noirot-Camuzet in 1953. The remaining parcel of Cros Parantoux was eventually sold to Jayer by Robert Arnoux’s sister in 1970, which the vineyard today encompasses 72 acres (Jean Meo retained 2.9 hectares of the other half). In 1978, the first Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux was released under Jayer’s label. Jayer made 3500 bottles of Cros Parantoux a year until 1996 before transferring to his nephew, Emmanuel Rouget in 1996. The métayage was eventually ended in 1988 and Jean Méo regained the controlled of 34.6 acres of vineyard including prized parcels of top grands crus such as Richebourg, Clos Vougeot, Corton and Échézeaux, and premiers crus Vosne Romanée Cros Parantoux, Aux Brûlées and Les Chaumes.
Jean-Nicolas Méo, son of Jean Méo was working alongside Henri Jayer until 1998 and later joined by Christian Faurois. Méo-Camuzet’s wines have often been compared to those of Jayer. Despite both producers having emphasis of fruit purity and overall equilibrium, they are different wines to me. Méo-Camuzet’s wines are more intense, shown more dark fruits (cassis, dark berries), more massive and to some extend more forceful and occasionally rusty-earth feel. It lacks the elegant, charm and stylish of Jayer. Nonetheless, this is an excellent Vosne-Romanée producer not to be missed.
Jean-Nicolas Méo, son of Jean Méo was working alongside Henri Jayer until 1998 and later joined by Christian Faurois. Méo-Camuzet’s wines have often been compared to those of Jayer. Despite both producers having emphasis of fruit purity and overall equilibrium, they are different wines to me. Méo-Camuzet’s wines are more intense, shown more dark fruits (cassis, dark berries), more massive and to some extend more forceful and occasionally rusty-earth feel. It lacks the elegant, charm and stylish of Jayer. Nonetheless, this is an excellent Vosne-Romanée producer not to be missed.
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