The highly anticipated movie "300" is probably the visually most stunning movie I've ever watch. This epic movie that inspired from Frank Miller's (yes, the same author for Sin City) graphic novel not only makes every scene capable of being a painting in the ceiling of Palais de Versailles, even the violence blood spreading (more like a drop of rose petal) battlefield, the dead corpses sculpted wall were all work of art, beautiful as poetry, and who can forget the erotic dance of the most beautiful Greece maiden. Despite all the six-packs, perfect body-sharp of the Spartans, the flawless CG effect, it was however underscored by a strong and convincing story that made this movie worthwhile.
Interestingly, wine share the similar path of success. All great wine almost inevitably has a great story behind. Whether is it a grand tale, or sometimes more humble, but like movie, they can emotionally move the audience and make them part of the movie. We all heard about the fascinating story of such great vineyards like Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, La Romanée.., the up and downfall (some later resurrected, others just disappeared) of such historical families like Liger-Belair, Comte George de Vogüé, Marey-Monge...etc. Both their wines and story have lived through the history, tested by time, and continue to inspire the rest till these days. Are there similar example in California? The answer is yes!
Anyone who is familiar with the wine history of America heard about the legacy of Inglenook Vineyard, which during then, was the only quality-driven winery in Rutherford. It was founded in 1879 by Gustav Niebaum. In the hand of his grandson, John Daniel Jr., it has achieved the quality height that's unparalleled by others. Today, the original estate is sold to famous Hollywood filmmaker, Francis Ford Coppola that renamed it as Rubicon. The Inglenook vineyard, Napanook was later sold to Christian Moueix of Château Pétrus, which form the Dominus Estate. The daughter of John Daniel Jr., Robin Lail want on to co-found the Merryvale Vineyard with Bill Harlan and others. She later departed the partnership and started her own Lail Vineyard with the help of Philippe Melka, the same winemaker for Bryant Family.
How was this story for a start? Let me tell you another highly inspiring story of Harlan Estate.
In some angle of Harlan, he reminded me a lot of Clint Eastwood, that no-bullshit, that focused look, with his pair of hawk's eye that can almost read through your mind. That was my first impression when I first met the giant himself. The real-estate developer of Pacific Union has always had that keen eye and foresight for many good things to come. Whether is it from his early training days in the real estate business, or his natural instinct. His decision to start a high profile boutique hotel called Meadowood in the middle of wine country (at Silverado Trail) has proven to be a real success. When he was first beaten by the wine bug and joined founded the Merryvale Winery. He realized ahead of him, will be another fascinating journey, but what he didn't know, he was actually making history while persuading his dream.
Harlan was always fascinated by those great Châteaus in Bordeaux. With the help of his new found acquaintance, Bob Mondavi, he took a trip to Bordeaux and Burgundy, that is where he learn that, all great wine lies on it's vineyard, not on the hand of man, that the great vineyards are to be found not to be made. Upon returning from France, he and winemaker, Bob Levy started to search for the site. During than, when self-expression was better appreciated by the American critics rather than the site, winemaking become more important then where the wine is grow, and hiring star consultant winemaker like Tony Soter, Helen Turley, Heidi Peterson Barret has become the short path for success. Out of sudden, like winter saffron, there are new "cult" wine appearing in every new vintage. Little do people notice that, it was in fact the uniqueness of vineyard that contributed to the success of those flying consultant. Tony Soter became notice because of his work in Spottswoode, Helen Turley becoming hot commodity due to her involvement with Bryant Family, Heidi Barret must be grateful to have her name associated with Grace Family vineyard. Look at today, after they have all left those vineyards, have their quality disappeared with them? Harlan is fully aware of that, he started looking back history, and soon he discovered, two particularly areas - Rutherford & Oakville, were in the past, the best quality Cabernets found it's best there. He later acquired a hillside vineyard in 84s at western Oakville , overlooking Martha's vineyard, where David Abreu was put in-charged of constructing the vineyard from scratch. Due to the steepness of the vineyard (the steeper slopes at 45-degree angles), only hand-harvest is employ. Despite the first grape was harvested in 1987, and first wine was bottled in 1989. But the perfectionist Harlan has patiently waited till 1990 vintage to show the World his First-Growth Cabernets of Napa Valley. Over the years, Harlan Estate has proven itself for not just another come and gone Cult Cabernets. It has continue to deliver the unique nuances and that combination of European wine's graceful and elegant in addition to that luxurious ripen Californian Cabernet fruit quality. When compare Harlan Estate among the rest of the "loud" (big fruit, big oak) Cult Cabernets, one could easily spotted which is the real "First-Growth"!
Interestingly, wine share the similar path of success. All great wine almost inevitably has a great story behind. Whether is it a grand tale, or sometimes more humble, but like movie, they can emotionally move the audience and make them part of the movie. We all heard about the fascinating story of such great vineyards like Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, La Romanée.., the up and downfall (some later resurrected, others just disappeared) of such historical families like Liger-Belair, Comte George de Vogüé, Marey-Monge...etc. Both their wines and story have lived through the history, tested by time, and continue to inspire the rest till these days. Are there similar example in California? The answer is yes!
Anyone who is familiar with the wine history of America heard about the legacy of Inglenook Vineyard, which during then, was the only quality-driven winery in Rutherford. It was founded in 1879 by Gustav Niebaum. In the hand of his grandson, John Daniel Jr., it has achieved the quality height that's unparalleled by others. Today, the original estate is sold to famous Hollywood filmmaker, Francis Ford Coppola that renamed it as Rubicon. The Inglenook vineyard, Napanook was later sold to Christian Moueix of Château Pétrus, which form the Dominus Estate. The daughter of John Daniel Jr., Robin Lail want on to co-found the Merryvale Vineyard with Bill Harlan and others. She later departed the partnership and started her own Lail Vineyard with the help of Philippe Melka, the same winemaker for Bryant Family.
How was this story for a start? Let me tell you another highly inspiring story of Harlan Estate.
In some angle of Harlan, he reminded me a lot of Clint Eastwood, that no-bullshit, that focused look, with his pair of hawk's eye that can almost read through your mind. That was my first impression when I first met the giant himself. The real-estate developer of Pacific Union has always had that keen eye and foresight for many good things to come. Whether is it from his early training days in the real estate business, or his natural instinct. His decision to start a high profile boutique hotel called Meadowood in the middle of wine country (at Silverado Trail) has proven to be a real success. When he was first beaten by the wine bug and joined founded the Merryvale Winery. He realized ahead of him, will be another fascinating journey, but what he didn't know, he was actually making history while persuading his dream.
Harlan was always fascinated by those great Châteaus in Bordeaux. With the help of his new found acquaintance, Bob Mondavi, he took a trip to Bordeaux and Burgundy, that is where he learn that, all great wine lies on it's vineyard, not on the hand of man, that the great vineyards are to be found not to be made. Upon returning from France, he and winemaker, Bob Levy started to search for the site. During than, when self-expression was better appreciated by the American critics rather than the site, winemaking become more important then where the wine is grow, and hiring star consultant winemaker like Tony Soter, Helen Turley, Heidi Peterson Barret has become the short path for success. Out of sudden, like winter saffron, there are new "cult" wine appearing in every new vintage. Little do people notice that, it was in fact the uniqueness of vineyard that contributed to the success of those flying consultant. Tony Soter became notice because of his work in Spottswoode, Helen Turley becoming hot commodity due to her involvement with Bryant Family, Heidi Barret must be grateful to have her name associated with Grace Family vineyard. Look at today, after they have all left those vineyards, have their quality disappeared with them? Harlan is fully aware of that, he started looking back history, and soon he discovered, two particularly areas - Rutherford & Oakville, were in the past, the best quality Cabernets found it's best there. He later acquired a hillside vineyard in 84s at western Oakville , overlooking Martha's vineyard, where David Abreu was put in-charged of constructing the vineyard from scratch. Due to the steepness of the vineyard (the steeper slopes at 45-degree angles), only hand-harvest is employ. Despite the first grape was harvested in 1987, and first wine was bottled in 1989. But the perfectionist Harlan has patiently waited till 1990 vintage to show the World his First-Growth Cabernets of Napa Valley. Over the years, Harlan Estate has proven itself for not just another come and gone Cult Cabernets. It has continue to deliver the unique nuances and that combination of European wine's graceful and elegant in addition to that luxurious ripen Californian Cabernet fruit quality. When compare Harlan Estate among the rest of the "loud" (big fruit, big oak) Cult Cabernets, one could easily spotted which is the real "First-Growth"!
Recent Vintage - A shift of Americanization Palate
I have previously said about the influence of media & press. However, what really causes the industry shake up was in fact two wine-focus movies. The Frenchmen Jonathan Nossiter's documentary "Mondovino" and the Alexander Payne's Sideways. Mondovino has put the global-trotter wine consultant, Michel Rolland on the trial, questioning him for globalization of wine style. Rolland in his recent interviewed by Tanzer was forced to half-demote himself for consultant winemakers to master blender to avoid being ask how he could possibly make 400 different wines in 33 countries, 3 continents in one given vintage (easy done! u need a laptop with well calculated formula and a cellular phone). Sideways on the hand, has taken away the American beloved Merlot to replace the earth's vocal Pinot Noir grape. And out of sudden, the usual Americanization palate, which they previously celebrate wine of instant gratification, wine of obviousness (big fruit, extreme ripeness, oak toastiness, alcohol) and now, we start hearing the emphasis of balance, varietally accurate, clearer site character and better preservation of natural acidity. This new move can be further witnessed from our friends in Wine Spectator. Previously, 1996s and 1997s where vintages were under the similar influence of extreme heat, despite the condition might have been better with 1997s (crops were larger), with both vintages receiving a much higher scored by Wine Spectator (1997 went on to won the vintage of the century by Wine Spectator) than the current two heat-laden vintages of 2003s & 2004s. Is there really such a huge difference, or simply those folks have evolved their palate since? U be the judge! 2003s and 2004s vintages in California (North Coast to be precise) was characterized by heat-spikes and September east winds that concentrate the wine through dehydration. Obviously, such ripening is easily cause the soaring sugar to outrace the phenolic ripeness. But the best sites with their low-yields were able to ripen the sugar more thorough and evenly, produces wines of immediate sexiness and voluptuous personality. As a rule of thumb, 2004, due to its small crop, fruit can be more extreme (more rapid growth due to excess energy distribution of vine), which can be witness from the slightly jammy fruit profile and one of the higher alcohol in record. 2003 despite equally ripe, are somehow fresher, more precautious, with number of example even shown good tannin and acidity, which translated to better freshness and equilibrium.
I have previously said about the influence of media & press. However, what really causes the industry shake up was in fact two wine-focus movies. The Frenchmen Jonathan Nossiter's documentary "Mondovino" and the Alexander Payne's Sideways. Mondovino has put the global-trotter wine consultant, Michel Rolland on the trial, questioning him for globalization of wine style. Rolland in his recent interviewed by Tanzer was forced to half-demote himself for consultant winemakers to master blender to avoid being ask how he could possibly make 400 different wines in 33 countries, 3 continents in one given vintage (easy done! u need a laptop with well calculated formula and a cellular phone). Sideways on the hand, has taken away the American beloved Merlot to replace the earth's vocal Pinot Noir grape. And out of sudden, the usual Americanization palate, which they previously celebrate wine of instant gratification, wine of obviousness (big fruit, extreme ripeness, oak toastiness, alcohol) and now, we start hearing the emphasis of balance, varietally accurate, clearer site character and better preservation of natural acidity. This new move can be further witnessed from our friends in Wine Spectator. Previously, 1996s and 1997s where vintages were under the similar influence of extreme heat, despite the condition might have been better with 1997s (crops were larger), with both vintages receiving a much higher scored by Wine Spectator (1997 went on to won the vintage of the century by Wine Spectator) than the current two heat-laden vintages of 2003s & 2004s. Is there really such a huge difference, or simply those folks have evolved their palate since? U be the judge! 2003s and 2004s vintages in California (North Coast to be precise) was characterized by heat-spikes and September east winds that concentrate the wine through dehydration. Obviously, such ripening is easily cause the soaring sugar to outrace the phenolic ripeness. But the best sites with their low-yields were able to ripen the sugar more thorough and evenly, produces wines of immediate sexiness and voluptuous personality. As a rule of thumb, 2004, due to its small crop, fruit can be more extreme (more rapid growth due to excess energy distribution of vine), which can be witness from the slightly jammy fruit profile and one of the higher alcohol in record. 2003 despite equally ripe, are somehow fresher, more precautious, with number of example even shown good tannin and acidity, which translated to better freshness and equilibrium.
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