Our second half of 2000 Bordeaux took place at my favorite Sage Restaurant in Robertson Walk. Due to the highly satisfying part-one 2000 Bordeaux tasting conducted some months ago. The part-two, which featured wine mostly from the right bank and three first-growth from Medoc, came with high anticipation and expectation. However, to some of the attendees, it was a letdown!
First of all, 2000 vintage despite suffering from hydric stress. It was nothing compared with the heatwave of 2003, with super-ripe, sometime baked fruit character. In my view, it also lack the profoundness, the immediate sexiness that contributed by the over-achieved Merlot in 2005. 2000 to me, is a classical vintage that's more in-line with say, 1995. The flamboyance and profoundness of 2000 Chateau Margaux was an exception. The 2000 Latour, Lafite & Mouton were all made in long haul, less precautious style. However, one is not difficult to detect the intensity, the concentration of fruit that await to be burst, if only, they were not been stop by the sounding acidity and formidable structured. 2000 Mouton display their usual cedar, blackcurrant, spice and mineral. Very well pitched, thanks to the adequate acidity, which also give the wine that sense of elegance. 2000 Lafite give off that neat, refreshing, burgundy-like purity. Showing more pure currant, less of that Mouton's cedar, leather element. More austere, but better precision and burgundy-like transparence and details. Not a wine for weight and textured, but instead elegance and finesse. 2000 Latour is obviously the most massive of all. More cassis, mint and hint of bitter-chocolate. The dense and lush palate, making the tannin less noticeable and suave. This is clearly the most powerful, more obvious alcohol first-growth of all. I will be brief on the following garagiste, 2000 Clos L'Eglise, more hyper-ripe element, liqueur-infused blackfruits. Lush, creamy, seamless, yet surprisingly structured. I agreed with Jancis, the dark raspberries, blackberries, with spice and sexy personality does recalled some of Domaine Leroy's Vosne-Romanee. 2000 Pavie-Decesse, I knew Jancis hated this wine, she called it, "one is experiencing human effort rather than nature, it's a formula"! To me, more chocolaty, more-port-ish, pruney, almost band-aid like nose. Tarry, medicinal, viscous, and evolved rapidly in the glass. Drink-up! 2000 Canon La Gaffeliere, Thank god! We are back to more classic St.-Emilion. Satin smooth, with lovely sweet-berries fruit that is both gentle and edge-free on the palate. Quite floral, with Vosne-like spices, and marked by liveliness and exclusive balance, especially after the two chunky garagistes. 2000 Angelus, initially look like one of those garagiste dark-raspberries, mocha element. Fortunately, more steel-like-mineral kick in. On the palate, is mouthfilling rich and fat, yet, it has the precision and inner-mouth energy to bring back the wine in focus. In fact, after some aeration, it shown better purity and acid-spine. 2000 La Conseillante some how brought back the La Conseillante I remembered. I must said, I am less enthusiast with the current Rolland's regime style. Thick and sexy, at the sametime, firm and structured. Quite kirsch-like, yet the blackraspberry/ blueberries fruit look tangy, bracing. This reminded me a lot like the 1985 La Conseillante, which I enjoy immensely for many years.
2004 vintage has being sandwiched between the two of the more illustrated vintages of 2003 & 2005, is destined to be over shadowed. However, the British press has, from the start supported this rather classical vintage of Bordeaux, which featured extreme lateness of harvest, and produces more traditional-style Bordeaux for their firm tannins, vibrant acidities, food-friendly style. Since 2003, and especially 2005 announced their exorbitant opening price, for the fraction of price, 2004 came as an good value today, much like the previous 2001 & 2002 vintages. In the recent Wine Spectator Insider, many 2004 were given a higher-than-previous score, Ausone (95 points), Latour (95 points), Haut-Brion (95 points), Leoville Las Cases (95 points), Cos d'Estournel (94 points), Pontet-Canet (93 points). James Suckling in his personal blogs has also shown optimism how 2004 has developed since it was bottled. "I think that 2004 is going to please a lot of people. They are typical Bordeaux with lovely perfumes of berries and flowers and medium to full-bodied palates, with refined tannins and a long finish". Let look at some of the crucial element that make-up the stylistic and quality of 2004 Bordeaux.
The 2004's features extreme lateness and extreme abundance, accordingly to Bordeaux wine merchant Bill Blatch, which is the person that provides Jancis Robinson, Robert Parker, James Suckling (and, everyone else) the primary assessment on each vintage of Bordeaux. Here is the summary of 2004, where I gather the information from Jancis Robinson & Bill Blatch - Lateness in vintage, translate better accumulation of acidity, often produced wine of traditional-style that features firm tannins, refreshment and elegance. Unlike such early-harvested years like 1989, '90 & '03, where the hot vintages produces warmers-style of softness, fatness, obvious ripeness and profoundness. 2004 also suffered from some downpour in August, with 11 mm above average of rain, which explains the vintage favored well-drained, heat-retentive, warmer gravel soils rather than the heavier, cooler late ripening clay soils (the opposite scenario of 2003). The vintage started off with very late budding (three weeks behind) due the low pressure coming from northerly wave, which lasted till mid-March. This early sign has already shown the delay-harvest vintage for 2004. Despite late-budding does not necessarily mean inferior vintage. However, by the end of April, the over fertile budding (there was even a third bud) has indicated a potentially huge-crop ahead. For Chateaus who remove those excessive buds, appear to make better wines this year. The flowering was effective and rapid due to the early June heatwave. However, vineyards were suffering from drought. July and August were depressing, with showers and overcast weather. The interchange of heat and damp weather has caused the grapes to swell, the enormous load of grapes, which required the eclaircissage - second crop-thinning. However, fewer Chateaus could afford to thin and crop their vineyard, especially, most Frenchmen believe in holidaying solidly rather than working solidly in July and August - said Alain Vauthier of Chateau Ausone. The delay vintage of 2004 has caused some major shortage of vineyard workers (of-course, all on holiday). "Once again, as in 1986 and 2002, Bordeaux made a vintage that was saved by the bell", said Bill Blatch. The return of high pressure in September that lasted till October 10th gave the grapes its well needed heat to evaporate the excessive water, and to diminish the size, further concentrate and as well as ripening the fruits. The very cold nights of September 16, 17, 18, also said to have gave the wine freshness, which is the hallmark of this vintage. Merlot and Cabernet Franc were brought in at idea ripening condition, avoiding the October heavy rain. However, the late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon was picked during when the rain started, and finish at around 14-15 October, before the rain ended. "If you find anyone in the Medoc who claims that they didn't pick in rain, then send them to me," said, manager of Chateau Latour, Frederic Engerer. This is the vintage favor those who work hard in their vineyards, doing shot pruning, de-budding, crop thinning. In addition, those Chateaus whose wines sell at the higher prices, whose could afford the luxury of paying pickers to wait for the right moment to pick and harvest parcel-by-parcel made the best wine of the vintage. "The best 2004s are just so delicious, even if they may not have the intensity of the 2005s, and offer refreshment rather than opulence," said Jancis Robinson.
First of all, 2000 vintage despite suffering from hydric stress. It was nothing compared with the heatwave of 2003, with super-ripe, sometime baked fruit character. In my view, it also lack the profoundness, the immediate sexiness that contributed by the over-achieved Merlot in 2005. 2000 to me, is a classical vintage that's more in-line with say, 1995. The flamboyance and profoundness of 2000 Chateau Margaux was an exception. The 2000 Latour, Lafite & Mouton were all made in long haul, less precautious style. However, one is not difficult to detect the intensity, the concentration of fruit that await to be burst, if only, they were not been stop by the sounding acidity and formidable structured. 2000 Mouton display their usual cedar, blackcurrant, spice and mineral. Very well pitched, thanks to the adequate acidity, which also give the wine that sense of elegance. 2000 Lafite give off that neat, refreshing, burgundy-like purity. Showing more pure currant, less of that Mouton's cedar, leather element. More austere, but better precision and burgundy-like transparence and details. Not a wine for weight and textured, but instead elegance and finesse. 2000 Latour is obviously the most massive of all. More cassis, mint and hint of bitter-chocolate. The dense and lush palate, making the tannin less noticeable and suave. This is clearly the most powerful, more obvious alcohol first-growth of all. I will be brief on the following garagiste, 2000 Clos L'Eglise, more hyper-ripe element, liqueur-infused blackfruits. Lush, creamy, seamless, yet surprisingly structured. I agreed with Jancis, the dark raspberries, blackberries, with spice and sexy personality does recalled some of Domaine Leroy's Vosne-Romanee. 2000 Pavie-Decesse, I knew Jancis hated this wine, she called it, "one is experiencing human effort rather than nature, it's a formula"! To me, more chocolaty, more-port-ish, pruney, almost band-aid like nose. Tarry, medicinal, viscous, and evolved rapidly in the glass. Drink-up! 2000 Canon La Gaffeliere, Thank god! We are back to more classic St.-Emilion. Satin smooth, with lovely sweet-berries fruit that is both gentle and edge-free on the palate. Quite floral, with Vosne-like spices, and marked by liveliness and exclusive balance, especially after the two chunky garagistes. 2000 Angelus, initially look like one of those garagiste dark-raspberries, mocha element. Fortunately, more steel-like-mineral kick in. On the palate, is mouthfilling rich and fat, yet, it has the precision and inner-mouth energy to bring back the wine in focus. In fact, after some aeration, it shown better purity and acid-spine. 2000 La Conseillante some how brought back the La Conseillante I remembered. I must said, I am less enthusiast with the current Rolland's regime style. Thick and sexy, at the sametime, firm and structured. Quite kirsch-like, yet the blackraspberry/ blueberries fruit look tangy, bracing. This reminded me a lot like the 1985 La Conseillante, which I enjoy immensely for many years.
2004 vintage has being sandwiched between the two of the more illustrated vintages of 2003 & 2005, is destined to be over shadowed. However, the British press has, from the start supported this rather classical vintage of Bordeaux, which featured extreme lateness of harvest, and produces more traditional-style Bordeaux for their firm tannins, vibrant acidities, food-friendly style. Since 2003, and especially 2005 announced their exorbitant opening price, for the fraction of price, 2004 came as an good value today, much like the previous 2001 & 2002 vintages. In the recent Wine Spectator Insider, many 2004 were given a higher-than-previous score, Ausone (95 points), Latour (95 points), Haut-Brion (95 points), Leoville Las Cases (95 points), Cos d'Estournel (94 points), Pontet-Canet (93 points). James Suckling in his personal blogs has also shown optimism how 2004 has developed since it was bottled. "I think that 2004 is going to please a lot of people. They are typical Bordeaux with lovely perfumes of berries and flowers and medium to full-bodied palates, with refined tannins and a long finish". Let look at some of the crucial element that make-up the stylistic and quality of 2004 Bordeaux.
The 2004's features extreme lateness and extreme abundance, accordingly to Bordeaux wine merchant Bill Blatch, which is the person that provides Jancis Robinson, Robert Parker, James Suckling (and, everyone else) the primary assessment on each vintage of Bordeaux. Here is the summary of 2004, where I gather the information from Jancis Robinson & Bill Blatch - Lateness in vintage, translate better accumulation of acidity, often produced wine of traditional-style that features firm tannins, refreshment and elegance. Unlike such early-harvested years like 1989, '90 & '03, where the hot vintages produces warmers-style of softness, fatness, obvious ripeness and profoundness. 2004 also suffered from some downpour in August, with 11 mm above average of rain, which explains the vintage favored well-drained, heat-retentive, warmer gravel soils rather than the heavier, cooler late ripening clay soils (the opposite scenario of 2003). The vintage started off with very late budding (three weeks behind) due the low pressure coming from northerly wave, which lasted till mid-March. This early sign has already shown the delay-harvest vintage for 2004. Despite late-budding does not necessarily mean inferior vintage. However, by the end of April, the over fertile budding (there was even a third bud) has indicated a potentially huge-crop ahead. For Chateaus who remove those excessive buds, appear to make better wines this year. The flowering was effective and rapid due to the early June heatwave. However, vineyards were suffering from drought. July and August were depressing, with showers and overcast weather. The interchange of heat and damp weather has caused the grapes to swell, the enormous load of grapes, which required the eclaircissage - second crop-thinning. However, fewer Chateaus could afford to thin and crop their vineyard, especially, most Frenchmen believe in holidaying solidly rather than working solidly in July and August - said Alain Vauthier of Chateau Ausone. The delay vintage of 2004 has caused some major shortage of vineyard workers (of-course, all on holiday). "Once again, as in 1986 and 2002, Bordeaux made a vintage that was saved by the bell", said Bill Blatch. The return of high pressure in September that lasted till October 10th gave the grapes its well needed heat to evaporate the excessive water, and to diminish the size, further concentrate and as well as ripening the fruits. The very cold nights of September 16, 17, 18, also said to have gave the wine freshness, which is the hallmark of this vintage. Merlot and Cabernet Franc were brought in at idea ripening condition, avoiding the October heavy rain. However, the late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon was picked during when the rain started, and finish at around 14-15 October, before the rain ended. "If you find anyone in the Medoc who claims that they didn't pick in rain, then send them to me," said, manager of Chateau Latour, Frederic Engerer. This is the vintage favor those who work hard in their vineyards, doing shot pruning, de-budding, crop thinning. In addition, those Chateaus whose wines sell at the higher prices, whose could afford the luxury of paying pickers to wait for the right moment to pick and harvest parcel-by-parcel made the best wine of the vintage. "The best 2004s are just so delicious, even if they may not have the intensity of the 2005s, and offer refreshment rather than opulence," said Jancis Robinson.
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