Saturday, May 26, 2007

Giacomo Conterno – The Legend Continue

Giacomo Conterno is largely responsible for my passion towards Italian wine in my early career as a sommelier in early 90s during my stint in Ristorante Bologna at Marina Mandarin. I was in-charge of the wine service where I later found a huge collection of old Barolo from this renowned house in the restaurant cellar. During than, Italian wine was a rather unknown territory. Giacomo Conterno I found was in two very distinct label, the tough looking burgundian-bottle that carry the bright burgundy collar called Cascina Francia and a Bordeaux-bottle looking, with a old style, unexciting label that labeled itself as Riserva Monfortino. Little has been known that, in fact the simpler label turn out to be one of the rarer treasure of Piedmont that today remained the only Barolo that spend up to 7 years in foudre (large oak barrel) instead of the traditional 5 years required for Barolo Riserva.

Over the period of one year as the Sommelier for Ristorante Bologna, I have tasted numerous times of 1982, 1985 Cascina Francia (which fruits are brighter and more vigorous) and Riserva Monfortino (1971, 1974, 1979, 1982). Especially for Barolo Riserva Monfortino, the matured nebbiolo taste of earth, undergrowth, leather, smoke, tobacco, truffle are both so seductive and mind-bogglingly impressive.

Besidse Giacomo Conterno, there were numerous Conterno in Piedmont. Namely, Paolo Conterno, Conterno Fantino and Aldo Conterno. Only Aldo Conterno was related which both brothers split in 1969 with Aldo ventured out to set up his own estate in cru Bussia and Giovanni continued running his family vineyard. In 2003, after the death of Giovanni, the estate is currently in the capable hand of his son, Roberto, who has been understudying his father for several years.

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