I have always less optimistic about the 1997 Tuscany, which was declared by Wine Spectator as the vintage of the century from a quality point of view for Italy. 1997 was characterized by intense heat during the harvest period. The fact that made Tuscan wines so unique is that there is no wine in the world capable of combining two extreme elements - the richness and acidity (without any acid-adjust) that can co-exist. I disliked warm vintages coming from this region, even though it can give better pleasures for early consumption making Italian wines taste friendlier for the non-Italian wine drinker. The rare profoundness and sweetness from the heat-stressed vines often tasted well when young, but lacked the ability to hold against the rapid aeration and often respond poorly with the test of time. The deteriorating acidity found in those wines also loses the details and delineation necessary in overall wine quality.
I firmly believe 1999 vintage will surpass the 1997 in aging potential and superior quality. Simply, the equally rich and ripe 1999, which came from a more even growing vintage, posed better acidity and balance than most 1997 I have tasted. My recent tastings have shown that the large number of 1999s has begun to shut down, which is a sign of further development and a longer life ahead. All fanatics of Italian wines also noticed that the coastline regions like Castagneto Carducci, Bolgheri and Suvereto also made better wines in 1998 than 1997.
In my recent trip to Italy, I found myself equally impressed with most 2001s. This is another excellent year in the making for both Tuscany and Piedmont. Perhaps riper than 1999, but underneath the lush, ripe fruit personality, there is no shortage of lively acidity to energize the wines while keeping an overall equilibrium. None of the 1999 and 2001 came across as over extracted and occasionally careless flaw likes acetic, volatile acidity found in some 1997 Tuscans. In fact, I was even more pleasantly surprised by large number of Brunello di Montalcino 2000s tasted during this trip. These are wines with delicious fruit, sexy and early accessibility and yet considerable intensity. Unlike some 1998 Brunello, which come across as being more awkward, with light intensity and occasionally herbaceous element. Some 1998 reds also tasted lean, especially with noticeable dry tannin finish.
After spending a few days touring the Vinitaly exhibition alongside with the hottest wine consultant in Italy, Dr. Stephano Chiocioli, I have come to agree that, microbullage or micro-oxygenation which is now commonly practiced in Bordeaux, California and Australia seems to work well with the natural high acid indigenous varieties like Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. The technique involves inserting small oxygen bubbles during the fermentation process to soften the tannins - method often criticized as being artificial and modifying the wine deficiency (ie under-ripe fruits with hard tannin). This process often carry out with other techniques such as batonnage (stirred lees – more common in whites, but is currently done in reds) to enrich the wine and cold maceration to beautify the aroma. In the past, I have tasted some samples in California and I realize microbullage work well with average vintages and less prime fruit source. I also noticed that such process removes certain important elements in wine, making the wine taste rounder, softer and often too clinical and perfect for my liking. The aroma also seems monotonously and one dimensional with bright cherry and raspberry scented fruits? In the case of Italy, the natural high acidity of Sangiovese seems to handle the treatment better than any place I have seen (despite the fact that I have not tasted the original inventor of microbullage, Ducourneau’s Tannat wine from Madiran, where the native Tannat grape is famous for its high tannin), while retaining sound acidity with a smooth and supple texture.
In the case of 2000, where Mother Nature is less kind and fruits are harvested in less than ideal conditions, this newly introduced technique in Italy has proven to work well. Chiocioli is one of the leaders in the field to apply this technique to all his clients, where he consults. He believed such a tool helped to portray his ideal wine, which is a wine with clean, flawless, bright fruit personality in addition to a supple mouth texture feel and lingering aftertaste.
I have to confess that I was pleased with the result of 1997 Vertical Brunello di Montalcino dinner at Oso recently. This dinner marked the last dinner for Veritas/Vinifera and there were many interesting surprises. Despite my earlier thoughts for this vintage, I think either is due to the relatively flat land of Montalcino, or the earlier harvest (average two weeks earlier than interior Tuscan) seem less affected by the extreme and uneven weather of 1997. However, parts of central Tuscan which are more hilly and heat-trapped seemed to suffer from this topography disadvantage.
With this posting, I shall provide a better indication of my preferences through my tasting notes. My rating categories are:
Excellent – Wine that truly exemplify the regional or vintage quality
Very Good – Wine that excellently made, but lack the extra edge to be excellent quality
Good – A well made wine that is worth some attention
Altesino Montosoli is layered with telltale Sangiovese, spicy cherry, raspberry and subtle oak. Good mineral element and depth. Towards the end, showing better complexity and sweetness. The overall structure reminiscent of wine from Medoc. Not everyone’s favorite, but I like it. Excellent
Pian delle Vigne, this Antinori owned vineyard tasted modern, with more obvious new wood element and riper in style. Liqueur raspberry, cassis and mineral - all found in this wine. This silky, sexy wine also possesses good purity. Good
Caparzo La Casa – this is not a reserve Brunello, but rather a single vineyard from this renowned estate. Good complex spicy raspberry, leather and old wood vat aromas. Quite rusty, the acidity is overwhelming despite the high pitch, steely fruit. Also, the palate came across as unexcitingly lean. Not recommended
Casanova di Neri – Interesting old-style stalk, dirt, meat-stock complexity. Some volatility acid and noticeable “brett” characters. Good sweet entrance with still youthful tannin. The wine also tasted clumsy at this stage with obvious acidity and unyielding fruit. Not recommended
Ciacci Piccolomini Vigna di Pianrosso – one of my favorite producers in Montalcino. Black cherry, dark raspberry, with hint of mint or licorice. Full, ripe, rich, with persistent flavor of cassis and black raspberry. Quite lively and the sleek, glossy palate tasted balanced with suave tannin. Excellent
Conti Costanti – Good depth and richness. The wine came across tight at this stage, especially tasted right after the beautifully balanced Ciacci, making this wine look unattractive and mean. Perhaps with some cellaring, it will change my thoughts. Good
I firmly believe 1999 vintage will surpass the 1997 in aging potential and superior quality. Simply, the equally rich and ripe 1999, which came from a more even growing vintage, posed better acidity and balance than most 1997 I have tasted. My recent tastings have shown that the large number of 1999s has begun to shut down, which is a sign of further development and a longer life ahead. All fanatics of Italian wines also noticed that the coastline regions like Castagneto Carducci, Bolgheri and Suvereto also made better wines in 1998 than 1997.
In my recent trip to Italy, I found myself equally impressed with most 2001s. This is another excellent year in the making for both Tuscany and Piedmont. Perhaps riper than 1999, but underneath the lush, ripe fruit personality, there is no shortage of lively acidity to energize the wines while keeping an overall equilibrium. None of the 1999 and 2001 came across as over extracted and occasionally careless flaw likes acetic, volatile acidity found in some 1997 Tuscans. In fact, I was even more pleasantly surprised by large number of Brunello di Montalcino 2000s tasted during this trip. These are wines with delicious fruit, sexy and early accessibility and yet considerable intensity. Unlike some 1998 Brunello, which come across as being more awkward, with light intensity and occasionally herbaceous element. Some 1998 reds also tasted lean, especially with noticeable dry tannin finish.
After spending a few days touring the Vinitaly exhibition alongside with the hottest wine consultant in Italy, Dr. Stephano Chiocioli, I have come to agree that, microbullage or micro-oxygenation which is now commonly practiced in Bordeaux, California and Australia seems to work well with the natural high acid indigenous varieties like Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. The technique involves inserting small oxygen bubbles during the fermentation process to soften the tannins - method often criticized as being artificial and modifying the wine deficiency (ie under-ripe fruits with hard tannin). This process often carry out with other techniques such as batonnage (stirred lees – more common in whites, but is currently done in reds) to enrich the wine and cold maceration to beautify the aroma. In the past, I have tasted some samples in California and I realize microbullage work well with average vintages and less prime fruit source. I also noticed that such process removes certain important elements in wine, making the wine taste rounder, softer and often too clinical and perfect for my liking. The aroma also seems monotonously and one dimensional with bright cherry and raspberry scented fruits? In the case of Italy, the natural high acidity of Sangiovese seems to handle the treatment better than any place I have seen (despite the fact that I have not tasted the original inventor of microbullage, Ducourneau’s Tannat wine from Madiran, where the native Tannat grape is famous for its high tannin), while retaining sound acidity with a smooth and supple texture.
In the case of 2000, where Mother Nature is less kind and fruits are harvested in less than ideal conditions, this newly introduced technique in Italy has proven to work well. Chiocioli is one of the leaders in the field to apply this technique to all his clients, where he consults. He believed such a tool helped to portray his ideal wine, which is a wine with clean, flawless, bright fruit personality in addition to a supple mouth texture feel and lingering aftertaste.
I have to confess that I was pleased with the result of 1997 Vertical Brunello di Montalcino dinner at Oso recently. This dinner marked the last dinner for Veritas/Vinifera and there were many interesting surprises. Despite my earlier thoughts for this vintage, I think either is due to the relatively flat land of Montalcino, or the earlier harvest (average two weeks earlier than interior Tuscan) seem less affected by the extreme and uneven weather of 1997. However, parts of central Tuscan which are more hilly and heat-trapped seemed to suffer from this topography disadvantage.
With this posting, I shall provide a better indication of my preferences through my tasting notes. My rating categories are:
Excellent – Wine that truly exemplify the regional or vintage quality
Very Good – Wine that excellently made, but lack the extra edge to be excellent quality
Good – A well made wine that is worth some attention
Altesino Montosoli is layered with telltale Sangiovese, spicy cherry, raspberry and subtle oak. Good mineral element and depth. Towards the end, showing better complexity and sweetness. The overall structure reminiscent of wine from Medoc. Not everyone’s favorite, but I like it. Excellent
Pian delle Vigne, this Antinori owned vineyard tasted modern, with more obvious new wood element and riper in style. Liqueur raspberry, cassis and mineral - all found in this wine. This silky, sexy wine also possesses good purity. Good
Caparzo La Casa – this is not a reserve Brunello, but rather a single vineyard from this renowned estate. Good complex spicy raspberry, leather and old wood vat aromas. Quite rusty, the acidity is overwhelming despite the high pitch, steely fruit. Also, the palate came across as unexcitingly lean. Not recommended
Casanova di Neri – Interesting old-style stalk, dirt, meat-stock complexity. Some volatility acid and noticeable “brett” characters. Good sweet entrance with still youthful tannin. The wine also tasted clumsy at this stage with obvious acidity and unyielding fruit. Not recommended
Ciacci Piccolomini Vigna di Pianrosso – one of my favorite producers in Montalcino. Black cherry, dark raspberry, with hint of mint or licorice. Full, ripe, rich, with persistent flavor of cassis and black raspberry. Quite lively and the sleek, glossy palate tasted balanced with suave tannin. Excellent
Conti Costanti – Good depth and richness. The wine came across tight at this stage, especially tasted right after the beautifully balanced Ciacci, making this wine look unattractive and mean. Perhaps with some cellaring, it will change my thoughts. Good
Eredi Fuligni – This initially backward Brunello has improved considerably with aeration to be lively, well-buffered acidity and clear defined fruits of red raspberry and berries. The early mineral scented palate turned sweet toward the end of the dinner. Very good
Gorelli – This producer is relatively unknown to me. The color is not as saturated as the rest, but the nose is perhaps the most complex and profound - spice, dark raspberry with tobacco ash. The palate is lush and inviting, with leather, slightly oxidative fruit sweetness (maderized?). Quite powerful, with heat-stressed like chalky tannin finish. I found this wine to be a “good” example of some of the rapidly aging Brunellos of this vintage. Not recommended
Sirio Pacenti – Another favorite Brunello maker of mine. Despite modern clean palate with sweet new oak element, the wine is structured and very Medoc-like. Firmly build, with hidden deepness. Bright and well defined raspberry. The tannin is polished and nothing is obstructive about this wine. Excellent
Poggio Antico – I somehow found this wine to be less exciting despite the well build palate, with good lush fruit feel, and clean raspberry flavors. It lack substance and tasted like one of those technically correct wine - quite straightforward and flawless. Good
Pertimali – Livio Sassetti – This is one of the luxurious Brunello producers. Other Brunellos in this caliber are Biondi Santi and Soldera, Casa Bassa. The nose is close, but the palate is contrastingly different - lush, ripe and concentrated, with plenty of ripe berries that filled the palate. Seamless, highly attractive with obvious glycerin and candy bar like personality. A wine that offered pure palate pleasures. Very good
Tornesi – A wine similarly suffering from excessive air-contact without sufficient SO2 protection during fermentation. Leather or precisely - “Brett”, which was evident throughout the palate, making it difficult to access. Not recommended
Uccelliera – Obvious new wood toastiness, with vanillin, licorice and liqueur raspberries. Lush, quite powerful and full. Tasted very “international” like, which can literary came from anywhere like Spain or modern “garagie” St.-Emilion. Fortunately, underneath the exuberant personality, there is good acidity found. I am most delighted to learn from my recent tastings of the estate that they have shifted to a more traditional style of winemaking. Good
Gorelli – This producer is relatively unknown to me. The color is not as saturated as the rest, but the nose is perhaps the most complex and profound - spice, dark raspberry with tobacco ash. The palate is lush and inviting, with leather, slightly oxidative fruit sweetness (maderized?). Quite powerful, with heat-stressed like chalky tannin finish. I found this wine to be a “good” example of some of the rapidly aging Brunellos of this vintage. Not recommended
Sirio Pacenti – Another favorite Brunello maker of mine. Despite modern clean palate with sweet new oak element, the wine is structured and very Medoc-like. Firmly build, with hidden deepness. Bright and well defined raspberry. The tannin is polished and nothing is obstructive about this wine. Excellent
Poggio Antico – I somehow found this wine to be less exciting despite the well build palate, with good lush fruit feel, and clean raspberry flavors. It lack substance and tasted like one of those technically correct wine - quite straightforward and flawless. Good
Pertimali – Livio Sassetti – This is one of the luxurious Brunello producers. Other Brunellos in this caliber are Biondi Santi and Soldera, Casa Bassa. The nose is close, but the palate is contrastingly different - lush, ripe and concentrated, with plenty of ripe berries that filled the palate. Seamless, highly attractive with obvious glycerin and candy bar like personality. A wine that offered pure palate pleasures. Very good
Tornesi – A wine similarly suffering from excessive air-contact without sufficient SO2 protection during fermentation. Leather or precisely - “Brett”, which was evident throughout the palate, making it difficult to access. Not recommended
Uccelliera – Obvious new wood toastiness, with vanillin, licorice and liqueur raspberries. Lush, quite powerful and full. Tasted very “international” like, which can literary came from anywhere like Spain or modern “garagie” St.-Emilion. Fortunately, underneath the exuberant personality, there is good acidity found. I am most delighted to learn from my recent tastings of the estate that they have shifted to a more traditional style of winemaking. Good
Conclusion – Save for a few, the above group of wines have largely turned out well. Those are few fine examples, but I continue to come across 1997 Brunellos with flaws like brett, volatile acidity and pre-maturity maderized characters. The vintage lower than usual acidity and high alcohol requires skills to achieve good results. In addition, some 1997s also tasted over extracted, which is a common problem in warm vintages. A gentle and brief maceration is necessary if one is trying to preserve some acidity and overall balance.
No comments:
Post a Comment