Saturday, May 26, 2007

Spottswoode

My knowledge of this beautiful wine goes back to my early days experienced with Californian Wine. Those days, besides the cheap & cheerful Sutter Home White Zinfandel, the easily-spotted E&J Gallo. There is Mondavi, Beaulieu and Christian Brothers representing the opposite quality parameter. However, the real "boutique", blue-chip Californian reds lies on Duckhorn and Spottswoode, which are significantly harder to find in Singapore. Interestingly, I have later handled the wine of Duckhorn, and through Margaret Duckhorn, I was introduced to Mary Novak, proprietor of Spottswoode and a good friend of Duckhorn.

I remember first visit to Spottswoode in their Victorian looking estate in 1996, and that is where I first met Beth Novak Milliken, daughter of Mary and late Dr. Jack Novak. This dynamic and charismatic lady is currently the president of Spottswoode, the driving force behind this superbly made Cabernets producer.

Fewer people I met in life that can truly be honest about their wines and be open about alternate views from the outsider. Beth could well be consider one of those few. Few years ago, I ask Beth if it is possible for her to host me a vertical tasting of Spottswoode for my quest on the ageability of Californian Cabernets. She has generously replied, "Yes, let's taste all the three decades of Spottswoode in your next visit." That year, I arrived with huge enthusiasm and anticipation. She first treated us with her lovely, aromatic, refreshingly crisp Sauvignon Blanc. It has increasingly rare to see Sauvignon Blanc in California at that high level (perhaps, Peter Michael's L'Apres-Midi come close in quality with Spottswoode) since it is less commercially viable to plant Sauvignon these days. Many growers have overtime uproot the previous Sauvignon's vineyard to a higher-priced ask grape such as Merlot or Pinot Noir.

All the bottles were all pre-open or decant and the list of wines includes, Spottswoode 1982 (their debut released), 1985, 1987, 1991, 1994, 1997 and 2001. Along with the tasting is my agent, Ray, which is also a highly respected winemaker from Sonoma, his wife, and a couple who travelled with me this trip. Since over the three decades of making Cabernets, Spottswoode has changed from consultant winemaker, Tony Soter (previously making wine at Araujo, Dalla Vale & Etude) to Pamela Stewart, Mia Klein (still remained as consultant), and currently, the winemaking team is lead by Rosemary Cakebread (since 1997) and her assistance, Jennifer Williams. Any experienced taster can witness the stylistically differences during those various hands.

If you are looking for the current fashion of extract and hyper ripeness in Spottswoode Cabernets? You are likely to be disappointment. In the hands of those ladies, they emphasized finesse over power, balance over extraction. In Spottswoode Cabernets, one can always count on the sense of grace, raciness and purity, despite there is no question that, the current releases of 2001 and 2002, which has more evident of new woods and ripeness. My favorite of the 80s goes to 1987, which was still fresh and no sign of declining. The unusual high percentage of Cabernet France in this vintage, making it's aroma profile seemingly recall those of Cheval Blanc (lavender, blue berries, violet...). Of all 90s, 91 and 94 both reminded me a lot in common with St.-Julien, which it hallmark of purity and mineral component in addition to it drier, more restrained way. 97 is remained to be one of the unusually "flamboyant" year for Spottswoode. However, there is enough materials to hold the lush and profound personality. My initial impression with 2001 was, "have they gone too far to chase Parker's points"? When I put across the question to Beth, she has admittedly say to me that, "Yes, we have perhaps gone a bit further to the style that we like. but, it also proven that, we (spottswoode) is capable to producing those high parker pointer sensation." Beth also added that, the 2001 will turn better balance when it shade away it early "baby-fat".

Thankfully, all those ladies are strong enough to resist the temptation and I am happy to see the return of those underlying acidity and mineral quality in their coming 2002.

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