The Strike Back of Downunder – Australia Pinot Noir

August 05 -

Australian has been making pinot noir for decades, but the early specimens tend to be less exciting with fruit that loses their freshness (and color) and leaning toward earth, plum, foresty. The emerging cooler zone like Tasmania, with many pinot noir producers under the influence of Andrew Hood also tasted identical from the treatment such as cool maceration and often the traceable residual sugar seem to be the trademark of Hood’s style. I also less excited with Stuart Anderson style of Pinot Noir, which despite the core are tighter and more focused, but the often rustic and occasionally acid-adjust practice seem to make the wine taste mean and lean when young. I am less optimistic for those who believe those Macedon Ranges Pinot Noirs will eventually integrate and release finer quality with age. After all, most New World pinot noirs should be consumed during their first 3-5 years, where their fruits are vibrant and fresh.

I have previously tasted and admired the fine efforts from winery such as Giaconda, Bannockburn and Bass Philips for their handcrafted, burgundy-inspired pinot noir. Over time, I am convinced that, Victoria is the only region in Australia that produces some of the finest pinot noir in the country. My recent discovery of Kooyong and Moondarra’s pinot noirs has further strengthen my early thoughts.

Kooyong winemaker, Sandro Mosle produces his stylish Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the estate-grown vineyard in Mornington Peninsula. Despite the rich fertile soil and high vigor vineyard in this area, the quality conscious Mosle managed to keep the production low through several canopy management techniques such as shoot thinning, green harvest. His advanced irrigation system also helped him to control the stress level of his vine and further intensify his fruits. All that has enabled him to produce some of the finest burgundy-inspired pinot noir of the area. With the 2003 vintage, Kooyong will be releasing his single-vineyard Pinot Noir series, which consists of Haven, Meres and Ferrous. All are distinctly different from each other, with Havens being more large-scale, backward, Pommard-like style, and Meres more profound, raspberries Chambolle-like, and my favorite, Ferrous, which is distinctly burgundian-like, reminiscing those of Vosne-Romanee with its mineral-scented dark cherry and sweet pliant palate.