When you drive from Lyon, follow the expressway of N7 direction to Avignon, after turning into N86, passing Ampuis of Côte Rôtie. You will arrive in Condrieu, a village that is dedicated in the production of solely one wine that comes from a single variety - Viognier. This most cherished grape of Rhône found at it's best at this tinny, tuck away village that once, a strange-looking, yellow-skinned Chinese show up, trying to answer nature's call. He was denied.
Viognier, this highly aromatic, distinctive (once you are accustomed to their aromas. you can almost effortlessly pick up this grape variety in blind) white variety has overtime become the most fashionable grape that's found not just at home in Condrieu, but also flourished in area like California, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, South African...etc. Like Syrah, Viognier was believed to be first brought up in the Rhône valley by the Creek sailors between 600 and 400 B.C. Before the popularity of this white variety. It was once widely grown in southern farmland of Lyon and northern Rhône centuries ago. However, due to it's low vigor and prone for diseases like powdery mildew. The production in those areas were slowly declining and until 1968, it was just 14 hectare or 35 acres left, with mostly found in northern Rhône, Condrieu and Château Grillet (an 8.4 acres appellation and among the smaller in Rhône). Since the 70s, the production and price have gradually risen with many vineyards reconstructed and some of the finest vineyards located in the steep hill, often with granitic slopes and topsoil like arzelle (decomposed rock, granite, mica, shist, and some clay) that's traditionally known as the best soil were all replanted. Today, the total area planted with vine is 110 hectares, or 270 acres (equivalent of 500,000 bottles per annum). Despite the production increased, the challenge in cultivating this fragile grape variety in this area, which Viognier is susceptible for mildew attack; sensitive to strong wind due to weak flowering; soil erosion due to heavy rain. The average yield in the area remained notoriously low and also explains why, Condrieu is relatively expensive for a wine that's meant to be drunk young.
The extraordinary challenge posed in cultivating and vinifying Viognier however, comes with big rewards. Fewer people could resist the hauntingly sweet, exotic fragrance of apricots, peaches, honeysuckle combined in a textured, viscous, full body palate and endless persist of length of such rich fruitiness. Like Pinot Noir for burgundy, I rarely encounter a better viognier made outside Condrieu (Euro-beautiful syndrome?), especially in the hands of such great master like Georges Vernay, André Perret, Yves Culleron. Most new world's Viognier frequently tasted too heady, with obvious alcohol and frightfully low acidity that came across flabby and cloying. They lack the freshness and delineation posed by Condrieu and the skilful woods handling (one-third new oak) of those gentlemen along with Marcel Guigal that give the wine the necessary balance and definition. For me, Condrieu is Viognier, but, the reversal is not true.
Viognier, this highly aromatic, distinctive (once you are accustomed to their aromas. you can almost effortlessly pick up this grape variety in blind) white variety has overtime become the most fashionable grape that's found not just at home in Condrieu, but also flourished in area like California, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, South African...etc. Like Syrah, Viognier was believed to be first brought up in the Rhône valley by the Creek sailors between 600 and 400 B.C. Before the popularity of this white variety. It was once widely grown in southern farmland of Lyon and northern Rhône centuries ago. However, due to it's low vigor and prone for diseases like powdery mildew. The production in those areas were slowly declining and until 1968, it was just 14 hectare or 35 acres left, with mostly found in northern Rhône, Condrieu and Château Grillet (an 8.4 acres appellation and among the smaller in Rhône). Since the 70s, the production and price have gradually risen with many vineyards reconstructed and some of the finest vineyards located in the steep hill, often with granitic slopes and topsoil like arzelle (decomposed rock, granite, mica, shist, and some clay) that's traditionally known as the best soil were all replanted. Today, the total area planted with vine is 110 hectares, or 270 acres (equivalent of 500,000 bottles per annum). Despite the production increased, the challenge in cultivating this fragile grape variety in this area, which Viognier is susceptible for mildew attack; sensitive to strong wind due to weak flowering; soil erosion due to heavy rain. The average yield in the area remained notoriously low and also explains why, Condrieu is relatively expensive for a wine that's meant to be drunk young.
The extraordinary challenge posed in cultivating and vinifying Viognier however, comes with big rewards. Fewer people could resist the hauntingly sweet, exotic fragrance of apricots, peaches, honeysuckle combined in a textured, viscous, full body palate and endless persist of length of such rich fruitiness. Like Pinot Noir for burgundy, I rarely encounter a better viognier made outside Condrieu (Euro-beautiful syndrome?), especially in the hands of such great master like Georges Vernay, André Perret, Yves Culleron. Most new world's Viognier frequently tasted too heady, with obvious alcohol and frightfully low acidity that came across flabby and cloying. They lack the freshness and delineation posed by Condrieu and the skilful woods handling (one-third new oak) of those gentlemen along with Marcel Guigal that give the wine the necessary balance and definition. For me, Condrieu is Viognier, but, the reversal is not true.
Unlike Condrieu, which was just a short drive from Côte Rôtie. The départment of St. Joseph is far more extended, some 40 miles long. Making them the longer appellation of northern Rhône. There is a total of 640 hectares (1581 acres) under vine, which explains the huge quality variable in this vast, confusing area that stretch from south of Condrieu to the doorstep of Cornas.
St. Joseph was originally based on a single hillside - a south-east-facing terraces between Tournon (opposite Crozes-Hermitage) and Mauves that was established in 1956. Six communes of the west bank of Rhône between Glun and Vion of total 100 hectares (247 acres) were added. Further expension of 25 communes run from south of Valence all the way up to Condrieu were all included in St. Joseph in 1969. Many of those newly planted vineyards are from flat, fertile, alluvial soil and the wine deserves nothing more than a Côte du Rhône village cru quality. To many growers, the finest St. Joseph came from the original granite steep hillside vineyards. Syrah account for 90% of the production here with small amount of St. Jospeh white that made from Marsanne and Rousanne grapes. The wine of St. Joseph is regarded as France's most delightfully rich, fruity, perfumed and early accessible reds.
St. Joseph was originally based on a single hillside - a south-east-facing terraces between Tournon (opposite Crozes-Hermitage) and Mauves that was established in 1956. Six communes of the west bank of Rhône between Glun and Vion of total 100 hectares (247 acres) were added. Further expension of 25 communes run from south of Valence all the way up to Condrieu were all included in St. Joseph in 1969. Many of those newly planted vineyards are from flat, fertile, alluvial soil and the wine deserves nothing more than a Côte du Rhône village cru quality. To many growers, the finest St. Joseph came from the original granite steep hillside vineyards. Syrah account for 90% of the production here with small amount of St. Jospeh white that made from Marsanne and Rousanne grapes. The wine of St. Joseph is regarded as France's most delightfully rich, fruity, perfumed and early accessible reds.
Jancis Robinson called Cornas a wine of positive "antediluvian" (check your dictionary on the meaning). Indeed, everything about Cornas, is ancient. Cornas is believed to be among the oldest vineyard sites of France with historical track of 2,000 years ago. It was also known as one of the favorite wine of king Charlemagne, which he has visited this tiny (94 hectares), most southernly town of Northern Rhône in A.D. 840 and tipped his goblet to the local growers.
Enjoying the similar steep terrances vineyard like Côte Rôtie and Hermitage (slopes reach 800 feet in height with gradient of 45°), however, Cornas never enjoy the similar glamorous status like the later two. Is easy to compare both Hermitage and Cornas as they share many things in common like, both are made from 100% Syrah, coming from soil of granite, limestone...etc. However, Cornas despite being denser, more msaculine, more strucrured, more robust. It never age or develop the same way as a great Hermitage does. Some pointed out, it was due to the ancient winemaking philosophy emloyed by many of the producers here. Other, simply blame on the weather, where the temperature here are much higher than in Hermitage, especially encourage by the destructive Mistral winds, which further exacerbate the heat during summertime.
The finest Cornas vineyards lies on those steep, terraced vineyards behind the village. Reynard, which co-owned by August Clape, Thierry Allemand, Alain Voge, Robert Michel and La Côte, owned by August Clape & Thierry Allemand are among the two most famous. In the south, toward the direction of St.-Péray were the slopes are still relatively steep and soil similar to the former two, vineyard such as La Combe, Sabarotte, Les Côtes and Champelrose are also worth notice.
My personal favorite of Cornas are those made by Thierry Allemand. Thierry Allemand, along with Pierre-Marie Clape, Jean-Luc Colombo, Jacques Lemencier are among the new generation winemakers here. Allemand owned the finest vineyard of the northern section of Chaillots and Reynard, the steep, superb vineyard that lies behind the village. Allemand's style is very focus, often with the fruit brightness and sappiness that call in mind of those from Burgundy. However, the distinct peppery note intertwined with smoky, meaty, chewy palate that is so distinctly - syrah. His Reynard is generally denser, more accessible and pliant. His Les Chaillots on the other hand shown more elegant and finesse, with better precision and better lift on the palate. Les Chaillots also come across more formidable, less showy, with more noticeable tannin at their youth. His regular Cornas came from the blend of both vineyards.
Enjoying the similar steep terrances vineyard like Côte Rôtie and Hermitage (slopes reach 800 feet in height with gradient of 45°), however, Cornas never enjoy the similar glamorous status like the later two. Is easy to compare both Hermitage and Cornas as they share many things in common like, both are made from 100% Syrah, coming from soil of granite, limestone...etc. However, Cornas despite being denser, more msaculine, more strucrured, more robust. It never age or develop the same way as a great Hermitage does. Some pointed out, it was due to the ancient winemaking philosophy emloyed by many of the producers here. Other, simply blame on the weather, where the temperature here are much higher than in Hermitage, especially encourage by the destructive Mistral winds, which further exacerbate the heat during summertime.
The finest Cornas vineyards lies on those steep, terraced vineyards behind the village. Reynard, which co-owned by August Clape, Thierry Allemand, Alain Voge, Robert Michel and La Côte, owned by August Clape & Thierry Allemand are among the two most famous. In the south, toward the direction of St.-Péray were the slopes are still relatively steep and soil similar to the former two, vineyard such as La Combe, Sabarotte, Les Côtes and Champelrose are also worth notice.
My personal favorite of Cornas are those made by Thierry Allemand. Thierry Allemand, along with Pierre-Marie Clape, Jean-Luc Colombo, Jacques Lemencier are among the new generation winemakers here. Allemand owned the finest vineyard of the northern section of Chaillots and Reynard, the steep, superb vineyard that lies behind the village. Allemand's style is very focus, often with the fruit brightness and sappiness that call in mind of those from Burgundy. However, the distinct peppery note intertwined with smoky, meaty, chewy palate that is so distinctly - syrah. His Reynard is generally denser, more accessible and pliant. His Les Chaillots on the other hand shown more elegant and finesse, with better precision and better lift on the palate. Les Chaillots also come across more formidable, less showy, with more noticeable tannin at their youth. His regular Cornas came from the blend of both vineyards.
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