Sunday, May 27, 2007

Am I MAD?

In the eye of all parents. All their children are special, unique of their own. They do not pose judgment on whether one is better than the other and neither do they ask one to be resembling another. They're all different, however, unique in their own way. The case with winemaker and their wines (or should I say, their child) resembling all parental attitude toward their child. They view all their wines no different from one to another despite coming from different sites. They raise them equally with their skills and knowledge, and acknowledge that, due to their differences of fruit sourced may result in difference in character. However, it is difficult for them to say, which wine (or vineyard) is better than the other. My recent tasting with Kai Schubert of Schubert wine from Martinborough of New Zealand clearly echos that.

Schubert Pinot Noir 2004 was recently voted the best wine along with 1999 Comte de Vogue Musigny in a blind tasting in Berlin. That give you some idea on my anticipation when I come to meet Kai Schubert on one Saturday afternoon. Schubert sourced his fruit from Wairarapa, the North Island of New Zealand, just north of Wellington. This unique area is protected by surrounding mountains, which is rainless during summers and autumns. The relatively cool and windy condition is best suited to the growth of Burgundian's Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Schubert Pinot Noir came primarly from three different clones; the Marion's Vineyard used predominantly "Able" clones, similar to those used by Ata Rangi, as well as "Pommard" clones, which Schubert told me was from the original cutting of DRC. As for the "Schubert" pinot noir, it consists mostly with "Dijon" clones. All the pinot noir are 100% destemmed and cold macerated for one week prior to the alcohol fermentation. Fermentation/maceration lasted for 3-4 weeks and the wine is subsequently aged in French oak barrel for 15 months (oak from the French forest of Allier, Trançois, Nevre by three different cooperages of Rousseau, François Frères & Remond). Schubert's pinot noir is clearly marked by cold-soak character of syrup-like sweetness and suppleness palate feel. The wine often has a strong pronounce of raspberries fruit and earth, with their 04 Schubert carrying an interesting mint element. All his 05s clearly coming from a warmer vintage and fruit leaning toward more jamminess. I found his pinot noir generally lacking verve and structured to hold that pliant and slightly overwhelming sweet palate. I however enjoy his Syrah, with its unique, Côte-Rôtie like of white pepper and smoke, which I thought was his best wine of that afternoon tasting.

Schubert is proud about his pinot noir, despite I've shown more enthusiasm over his Syrah. In the past, I have encountered the same experience with winemaker like David Ramey with his Hyde over his Hudson Chardonnay, with Eric Sussman of Radio Coteau's Hellenthal versus his Savoy pinot noir. Being an outsider, which I have no sentimental attachment. I realized I have the ability to look beyond the wines and discovered the most unique among, better than the winemaker themselves. Sandro Mosele, winemaker of Kooyong in Mornington Peninsula has perhaps value my view and he has suggested that I visit him in his cellar one day to formulate my ideal pinot noir. That is how we all started the making of MAD pinot noir.

M.A.D. consists of Michael, Andy & David, which were the initial group of people that conceptualized the idea of making the best pinot noir from Australia, taking the burgundian as an yardstick, and since, Burgundy is all about lieu-dit, we focus our source primarily from Kooyong single-vineyard pinot noir. Of all Sandro's pinot noir single vineyard bottling, Sandro preferred his Haven, which I clearly agree with him when aging ability is concern. I however found Haven pinot noir to be too severe and charmless during their youth, behave much like a young Pommard. His Meres pinot noir is clearly the lighter, more elegant style. Often lack the middle materials to be grandeur. Is like, no matter how hard the Le Grand Rue is trying, it can never taste like a La Tache! I have always been fond of Kooyong's Ferrous vineyard. The slightly shaded vineyard, which prevented the direct sunlight, along with it unique iron-encrusted sandstone which give-off both mineral and finesse from such well drained, low-vigor soil. The light soil generally lead to perfume, elegance and femininity, which is what you can expect from Ferrous pinot noir. It has the unusual high-pitched black cherry and almost Vosne's like spice, along with juicy palate, but keeping the focus and precision. The underlying acidity also give-off good verve as well as the tangy feel, which is a rare show particularly for Aussie's pinot. M.A.D. pinot noir was selected from 2004 harvest of Ferrous vineyard. The selection was made by myself of two special barrels (unblended) from François Frères of Trançois forest. The remaining Ferrous pinot noir (assemblage before bottling) want into Kooyong bottling and was later awarded by Tanzer a high 92 points.

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