Early this month, I attended the 2003 Port Declaration Tasting at Tower Club that was organized by the representative of The Symington Family Port Company. This is the second time such tastings have been conducted in Singapore. Interestingly, we were among the early group of people to have the privilege to taste before the official public launching of the 2003 vintage Port in Bordeaux, Vinexpo this June.
The group of attendees includes importers that handle Symington Family of ports and all major wine magazine writers.
Port wine was not new to me. In fact, I enjoyed a glass or two of fine Port after a heavy meal. It gave me an immense pleasure. I like the port taste as it combines the wine-like personality together with the inviting sweetness and fine brandy sensation. I particularly enjoyed Fronseca, which often reminded me of wine from Pomerol. I also like old Taylor’s and occasionally to have the treat of experiencing the fine Quinta do Noval Nacional. To me, Port, especially those well aged and matured in bottle. The sheer richness and palate persistent sweetness and the complexity of aged flavors have no difference to a well-cellared fine claret.
Port, is exclusively produced from Portugal where vineyards are planted along the famous Duoro Valley. Despite up to 80 different grape varieties are permitted to be used in the blend. Only five grape varieties are favored among all Port producers. They are Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Barrora, Tinta Roriz (Spain’s Tempranillo) and Tinta Cão. Port is produced no less different than wine except before grape sugar was complete fermented dry. It was interrupted with the adding of brandy (higher level of alcohol killed the active yeast) to stop the fermentation half way. This Results in a product combining primary fruit characters of wine with unfermented grape sugar sweetness and higher alcohol brandy strength. Good examples of Port are those that are able to harmonize those three elements and without having it tasting too raisiny, prunny for the fruits, or cloyingly sweet, or over-powering by the brandy. Balance is what great port is all about.
Vintage Port is only produced from an exceptional year, were the quality of fruits meet certain expectations. Recent vintage ports that were declared are 1994, 1997, 2000 and now, 2003. Previously, vintage Port was made in a more compact, formidable style. The current trend of making early accessible, riper style of wine has inevitably influenced how Port is made these days. The modern vintage Ports are more accessible, riper and to some degree, may not age as long as previously. Before the tasting, I was told that, 2003 saw some extreme temperatures and many producers were required to cool down the grapes. I witnessed some of the samples with typical drought condition flaws. All the following 2003 vintage Ports were served to us as semi-blind.
2003 Warre’s – The most profound and sweet nose of all Port served. Beside the raspberries liqueur-like nose, there is strong brandy sweetness present. Very flamboyant wine. Very fine palate, quite lush with balancing structured. There are more cassis emerged with air, but the wine remained firm and sound throughout. Finishing is long with persisting flavors. Very Good.
2003 Graham’s – I was somehow disappointed with this Port, which often the sweeter, most sexy and early accessible of all Port. The color is among the lighter, with rather usual pronounce herbal element (suffering from drought?). Hugely sweet and came across lighter more elegant than the former wine. The overall fruits also leaning toward more evolved stage. Finish with drying, rustic tannin. Not Recommended.
2003 Dow’s - The tiger-core most backward of all port served. Dark berries, bitter chocolate with very solid frame and yet equally dense and concentrated. Tasting this wine reminded me of Chateau Latour. Tanin, powerful, substantial and multilayers. Showing more cassis and mineral on the palate, with balancing verve and gripped. Youthful and need time resolve the tannin. Excellent.
2003 Smith Woodhouse – The port seem suffered from various flaws. The nose is stalky, with old wood, old barrel element. In addition, there is this distinctive herbal, Jasmine tea aspect. The palate is layers and quite rich, but at the same time, it tasted quite straight forwarder and lack the cut. The finishing all seem grape suffering from dehydration, with rustic, chalky tannin. Not Recommended.
2003 Quinta do Vesuvio – My favorite of all. Slightly amber edge in addition to it dark ruby color. The nose reminded me of wine from Pauillac, with cassis, cedar intermixed. The equally expressive nose also posses inviting sweet syrup flavors in addition to a brandy-coated raspberries that are all so inviting. The Lush, chewy, layers palate come across approachable, yet underneath, you could trace the tannin, which was largely conceal by the overwhelming fruits. Very charming Port. Excellent.
The group of attendees includes importers that handle Symington Family of ports and all major wine magazine writers.
Port wine was not new to me. In fact, I enjoyed a glass or two of fine Port after a heavy meal. It gave me an immense pleasure. I like the port taste as it combines the wine-like personality together with the inviting sweetness and fine brandy sensation. I particularly enjoyed Fronseca, which often reminded me of wine from Pomerol. I also like old Taylor’s and occasionally to have the treat of experiencing the fine Quinta do Noval Nacional. To me, Port, especially those well aged and matured in bottle. The sheer richness and palate persistent sweetness and the complexity of aged flavors have no difference to a well-cellared fine claret.
Port, is exclusively produced from Portugal where vineyards are planted along the famous Duoro Valley. Despite up to 80 different grape varieties are permitted to be used in the blend. Only five grape varieties are favored among all Port producers. They are Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Barrora, Tinta Roriz (Spain’s Tempranillo) and Tinta Cão. Port is produced no less different than wine except before grape sugar was complete fermented dry. It was interrupted with the adding of brandy (higher level of alcohol killed the active yeast) to stop the fermentation half way. This Results in a product combining primary fruit characters of wine with unfermented grape sugar sweetness and higher alcohol brandy strength. Good examples of Port are those that are able to harmonize those three elements and without having it tasting too raisiny, prunny for the fruits, or cloyingly sweet, or over-powering by the brandy. Balance is what great port is all about.
Vintage Port is only produced from an exceptional year, were the quality of fruits meet certain expectations. Recent vintage ports that were declared are 1994, 1997, 2000 and now, 2003. Previously, vintage Port was made in a more compact, formidable style. The current trend of making early accessible, riper style of wine has inevitably influenced how Port is made these days. The modern vintage Ports are more accessible, riper and to some degree, may not age as long as previously. Before the tasting, I was told that, 2003 saw some extreme temperatures and many producers were required to cool down the grapes. I witnessed some of the samples with typical drought condition flaws. All the following 2003 vintage Ports were served to us as semi-blind.
2003 Warre’s – The most profound and sweet nose of all Port served. Beside the raspberries liqueur-like nose, there is strong brandy sweetness present. Very flamboyant wine. Very fine palate, quite lush with balancing structured. There are more cassis emerged with air, but the wine remained firm and sound throughout. Finishing is long with persisting flavors. Very Good.
2003 Graham’s – I was somehow disappointed with this Port, which often the sweeter, most sexy and early accessible of all Port. The color is among the lighter, with rather usual pronounce herbal element (suffering from drought?). Hugely sweet and came across lighter more elegant than the former wine. The overall fruits also leaning toward more evolved stage. Finish with drying, rustic tannin. Not Recommended.
2003 Dow’s - The tiger-core most backward of all port served. Dark berries, bitter chocolate with very solid frame and yet equally dense and concentrated. Tasting this wine reminded me of Chateau Latour. Tanin, powerful, substantial and multilayers. Showing more cassis and mineral on the palate, with balancing verve and gripped. Youthful and need time resolve the tannin. Excellent.
2003 Smith Woodhouse – The port seem suffered from various flaws. The nose is stalky, with old wood, old barrel element. In addition, there is this distinctive herbal, Jasmine tea aspect. The palate is layers and quite rich, but at the same time, it tasted quite straight forwarder and lack the cut. The finishing all seem grape suffering from dehydration, with rustic, chalky tannin. Not Recommended.
2003 Quinta do Vesuvio – My favorite of all. Slightly amber edge in addition to it dark ruby color. The nose reminded me of wine from Pauillac, with cassis, cedar intermixed. The equally expressive nose also posses inviting sweet syrup flavors in addition to a brandy-coated raspberries that are all so inviting. The Lush, chewy, layers palate come across approachable, yet underneath, you could trace the tannin, which was largely conceal by the overwhelming fruits. Very charming Port. Excellent.
1 comment:
03' Warres is awesome huh! Great vintage port!
Post a Comment