" I am terribly sorry, we must have met before. But, by the way, your name is?" What a nice way to start a conversation. That is how I was greeted by Etienne Hugel. It must be nearly ten years since I last saw Etienne, along with late Gérard Jaboulet in Vinexpo. Etienne later took me to his booth, and lead with me through with his 2004 whites. I must say, I enjoy the 2004, which was not an easy vintage for Alsace due to the rain-threat harvest. The humid growing condition also results in the spread of grey rot and vintners have to fight hard to get their fruit ripened properly (apparently, those who picked early and eliminated those rotten grapes made the best wine). Hugel's style is on the elegance side, which unlike those from Ernest Burn, Albert Mann, Zind-Humbrecht that has shown more fatness and sweetness. His 2004 is fresh and dried, with very distinct varietal character. His top cuvée is his Jubilee and indeed, I enjoy his 2004 Riesling Jubilee immensely. Still in it infancy of primarily fruit, quite creamy-feel (Etienne called that the baby-fat), with limey, floral notes. I like the present of the natural acidity, which keep the wine firm and focus. Etienne later poured me his "under-table" bottle of 1998 Riesling Jubilee, which was to me, the pure essence of diesel - mineral. The palate shows good fatness and aged honey element. However, the zesty acidity remained present throughout the palate. Etienne later told me, he and Paul Jaboulet Ainé has both left Maxxium Singapore (previously known as Rémy Singapour). They are now distributed by Hong Tong Bee (or CornerStone, Tel: 6732 0555). I believe, the current switch of their distributor in Singapore might have something to do with the recent sale of Paul Jaboulet Ainé to Jean-Jacques Frey, owner of Château La Lagune and part-owner of Billecart-Salmon Champagne.
Primum Familiae Vini, or first families of wines was first form in 1993, with the aimed of combining all the strength of world-known, family-owned producers in promoting the value of 1) family-owned businesses; 2) exchanging vini/viticultural information among the members with the concept of terroir in mind; 3) to promote wine as a culture and moderation consumption of alcohol. Every year, members of Primum Familiae Vini traveling around the world, organized press conference and tasting in promoting the above values. The December 1st afternoon tasting at Raffles Ballroom is a All-Stars event. At the entrance, I saw Paul Symington of Symington Port (owner of Warre, Dow's, Graham ports), SQ (Singapore Airline) panel of wine experts, Steven Spurrier and Michael Hill-Smith MW, Frédéric Drouhin of Domaine Drouhin, Marc and Pierre Perrin of Château de Beaucastel, Egon Müller IV of Egon Müller Scharzhof, Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta of Sassicaia, Pablo Álvarez of Vega-Sicilia and a rare appearance of Baroness Philippine de Rothschild of Château Mouton-Rothschild. Believe me or not, I have visited Mouton for half a dozen of time, I never have the opportunity to meet the Baroness, even during Bordeaux's future campaigned (en primeur). No wonder, I witness a well-suit Caucasian gentlemen that literary kneeled down for her "majesty". What a privilege!
At the Domaine Joseph Drouhin counter, I have the first glimpse of 2005 Chablis Vaudon. Clearly, this vintage has more flesh, and shown more obvious ripeness (or fruitiness). Somehow I prefer the more austere, limey, racy 2004, which shows better terroir definition and unmistakable chalky, stony Chablis style. Fortunately, the second wine of 2004 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir just does that. I found that Drouhin's Vaudésir has more of that typical 04's "cut" compared to say, William Fèvre, which was richer and more expressive. Typicité Chablis mineral of oyster shell and iodine notes can be easily spotted in this Chablis. Clearly more transparent and details than 2005. In my opinion, there are no better Beaune white than Drouhin Beaune "Clos des Mouches". The 2004 Clos des Mouches is a lovely wine with delicious personality and yet the classic 04's acid has gave the wine the focus and delineation.
I have always been curious about that, why the local importer of Château de Beaucastel never bring in their fabulous, 100% Roussanne, Châteauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes Blanc. I finally found this wine in the tasting. The 2004 is discreet yet rich, with peach-cocktail like fruit and unctuous palate that recall those of Condrieu. However, the wine is much more stylish and has more acid-firmness than the best Condrieu. In my opinion, this simply is the best southern Rhône white money can buy. After tasting the exotic, flamboyant 2003 Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras "Les Christins" (from blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan). I find it hard to appreciate the 2001 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape, which was in fact a better wine. I was surprised to learn that this wine was not decanted. Far more subtle, compared to the almost syrup-sweet Vacqueras, with more complex fruit profile of dark berries, black cherries, earth and mineral. It has better middle depth and shown better elegance than the former wine.
Egon Müller junior led us through the display of his three Scharzhofberg Riesling. I like his 2004 Kabinett, crisp, details and refreshing. I however thought that his 2003 Spätlese to be lack of precision and absent of that typical cleansing-acid finish. Müller admitted that, heat-affects 2003, where sugar was abundant (drought-year, with sugar risen rapidly and often outrace the phenolic ripening), but acidity was running at the frightfully low level. This is the first time that the German official allowed the vintners to add tartaric acid to their musts, which previously, süssreserve (sweet reserve, or unfermented grape juice) were more commonly apply to counterbalance the high-acid, tart flavor of German's Riesling.
Sassicaia 2003, which is currently represented by our very own wine guru, the soon-to-be 80 year-old Dr. NK Yong (his company is called Giron Fine Wines, Tel: 6474 0076) is an usually profound, immensely delicious juice. Plenty of sweet blackcurrant, in a gentle, silk-like palate. Very sexy and attractive. The 2004 Guidalberto despite do not share the same richness and scale was nevertheless compensate with a better verve and firmer palate.
I am not a fan of Torre's Mas La Plana, despite it was the most important red wine of Penedè and previously won the best Cabernet-based wine at 1979 Gault-Millau Wine Olympiades in Paris for their 1970 Mas La Plana, beating such famous Bordeaux like Château Latour 1970 and La Mission Haut-Brion 1961. The wine is an unmistakably Cabernets, with its blackcurrant and tobacco smokiness. However, I am not sure anyone could guess in blind for being a Spaniard. Torres new wine, 2000 Grans Muralles (from blend of Monastrell, Garnacha Tinta, Garró, Samsó and Cariñenaare) is more likely my cup of tea. More linear, more acid-buffered berries scented fruit, which shown more palate penetration and liveliness. Mediterranean-like of edgy, earth, red-black berries fruits that is clearly not repeatable in new world. The wine despite not as suave, nor as rich as the Mas La Plana, however, it offset with better details and sappiness than the former wine (Torres is currently distributed by Culina. For enquiry or order, u contact Chee Wee at 9680 9922).
Every year, I meet Pablo Álvarez of Vega Sicilia and his winemaker, Xavier Ausás López de Castro in Bordeaux for the annual en primeur tasting. I am glad to see Pablo here for the occasion. His Pintia (vintage 2003?) from Toro belongs to those concentrated, wood-infused (mocha, chocolate), new wave, internationalization school. I was more delighted to see that sense of elegance with the following wine of Alion (sorry I don't remember the year? That afternoon tasting, I did not take any notes and it was entirely reliant on my memory. It appears that, my little brain cell could only remember so much.), which despite made in the modern style for Ribera del Duero. 2002 Valbuena was to me, more balanced and elegant. Very silky and sexily smooth. Not a blockbuster like Pintia, however, it offers better fruit purity and more flavored persistant palate (older vine?). Previously, I often think Valbeuna is one of the most highly recognizable wine in the entire Vega Sicilia's portfolio. As the use of American oak for aging, makes it obvious for Spaniard and unmistakably Valbeuna (however, with Xavier as the new winemaker. It is seemingly being replaced by French oak barrel for aging). Pablo told me, there will not be any Unico produce for 2002, which all the "grand vine" will be blended into Valbeuna, which explains the over achieved quality on this consistently been referred as the second vine of Único. I love the Único 1995, beautiful lively blueberry, dark cherry fruit aromas from Tempranillo. The palate has however shown more Cabernets, with more currant element and depth/textured that's obviously not a solo Tempranillo can attribute. Although it is delicious now, I found the wine is still not at its best. That somehow trapped, waiting to be burst-out fruit...time will unveil the fullness. Again, I was disappointed, the Único was not served from a decanter.
Primum Familiae Vini, or first families of wines was first form in 1993, with the aimed of combining all the strength of world-known, family-owned producers in promoting the value of 1) family-owned businesses; 2) exchanging vini/viticultural information among the members with the concept of terroir in mind; 3) to promote wine as a culture and moderation consumption of alcohol. Every year, members of Primum Familiae Vini traveling around the world, organized press conference and tasting in promoting the above values. The December 1st afternoon tasting at Raffles Ballroom is a All-Stars event. At the entrance, I saw Paul Symington of Symington Port (owner of Warre, Dow's, Graham ports), SQ (Singapore Airline) panel of wine experts, Steven Spurrier and Michael Hill-Smith MW, Frédéric Drouhin of Domaine Drouhin, Marc and Pierre Perrin of Château de Beaucastel, Egon Müller IV of Egon Müller Scharzhof, Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta of Sassicaia, Pablo Álvarez of Vega-Sicilia and a rare appearance of Baroness Philippine de Rothschild of Château Mouton-Rothschild. Believe me or not, I have visited Mouton for half a dozen of time, I never have the opportunity to meet the Baroness, even during Bordeaux's future campaigned (en primeur). No wonder, I witness a well-suit Caucasian gentlemen that literary kneeled down for her "majesty". What a privilege!
At the Domaine Joseph Drouhin counter, I have the first glimpse of 2005 Chablis Vaudon. Clearly, this vintage has more flesh, and shown more obvious ripeness (or fruitiness). Somehow I prefer the more austere, limey, racy 2004, which shows better terroir definition and unmistakable chalky, stony Chablis style. Fortunately, the second wine of 2004 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir just does that. I found that Drouhin's Vaudésir has more of that typical 04's "cut" compared to say, William Fèvre, which was richer and more expressive. Typicité Chablis mineral of oyster shell and iodine notes can be easily spotted in this Chablis. Clearly more transparent and details than 2005. In my opinion, there are no better Beaune white than Drouhin Beaune "Clos des Mouches". The 2004 Clos des Mouches is a lovely wine with delicious personality and yet the classic 04's acid has gave the wine the focus and delineation.
I have always been curious about that, why the local importer of Château de Beaucastel never bring in their fabulous, 100% Roussanne, Châteauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes Blanc. I finally found this wine in the tasting. The 2004 is discreet yet rich, with peach-cocktail like fruit and unctuous palate that recall those of Condrieu. However, the wine is much more stylish and has more acid-firmness than the best Condrieu. In my opinion, this simply is the best southern Rhône white money can buy. After tasting the exotic, flamboyant 2003 Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras "Les Christins" (from blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan). I find it hard to appreciate the 2001 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape, which was in fact a better wine. I was surprised to learn that this wine was not decanted. Far more subtle, compared to the almost syrup-sweet Vacqueras, with more complex fruit profile of dark berries, black cherries, earth and mineral. It has better middle depth and shown better elegance than the former wine.
Egon Müller junior led us through the display of his three Scharzhofberg Riesling. I like his 2004 Kabinett, crisp, details and refreshing. I however thought that his 2003 Spätlese to be lack of precision and absent of that typical cleansing-acid finish. Müller admitted that, heat-affects 2003, where sugar was abundant (drought-year, with sugar risen rapidly and often outrace the phenolic ripening), but acidity was running at the frightfully low level. This is the first time that the German official allowed the vintners to add tartaric acid to their musts, which previously, süssreserve (sweet reserve, or unfermented grape juice) were more commonly apply to counterbalance the high-acid, tart flavor of German's Riesling.
Sassicaia 2003, which is currently represented by our very own wine guru, the soon-to-be 80 year-old Dr. NK Yong (his company is called Giron Fine Wines, Tel: 6474 0076) is an usually profound, immensely delicious juice. Plenty of sweet blackcurrant, in a gentle, silk-like palate. Very sexy and attractive. The 2004 Guidalberto despite do not share the same richness and scale was nevertheless compensate with a better verve and firmer palate.
I am not a fan of Torre's Mas La Plana, despite it was the most important red wine of Penedè and previously won the best Cabernet-based wine at 1979 Gault-Millau Wine Olympiades in Paris for their 1970 Mas La Plana, beating such famous Bordeaux like Château Latour 1970 and La Mission Haut-Brion 1961. The wine is an unmistakably Cabernets, with its blackcurrant and tobacco smokiness. However, I am not sure anyone could guess in blind for being a Spaniard. Torres new wine, 2000 Grans Muralles (from blend of Monastrell, Garnacha Tinta, Garró, Samsó and Cariñenaare) is more likely my cup of tea. More linear, more acid-buffered berries scented fruit, which shown more palate penetration and liveliness. Mediterranean-like of edgy, earth, red-black berries fruits that is clearly not repeatable in new world. The wine despite not as suave, nor as rich as the Mas La Plana, however, it offset with better details and sappiness than the former wine (Torres is currently distributed by Culina. For enquiry or order, u contact Chee Wee at 9680 9922).
Every year, I meet Pablo Álvarez of Vega Sicilia and his winemaker, Xavier Ausás López de Castro in Bordeaux for the annual en primeur tasting. I am glad to see Pablo here for the occasion. His Pintia (vintage 2003?) from Toro belongs to those concentrated, wood-infused (mocha, chocolate), new wave, internationalization school. I was more delighted to see that sense of elegance with the following wine of Alion (sorry I don't remember the year? That afternoon tasting, I did not take any notes and it was entirely reliant on my memory. It appears that, my little brain cell could only remember so much.), which despite made in the modern style for Ribera del Duero. 2002 Valbuena was to me, more balanced and elegant. Very silky and sexily smooth. Not a blockbuster like Pintia, however, it offers better fruit purity and more flavored persistant palate (older vine?). Previously, I often think Valbeuna is one of the most highly recognizable wine in the entire Vega Sicilia's portfolio. As the use of American oak for aging, makes it obvious for Spaniard and unmistakably Valbeuna (however, with Xavier as the new winemaker. It is seemingly being replaced by French oak barrel for aging). Pablo told me, there will not be any Unico produce for 2002, which all the "grand vine" will be blended into Valbeuna, which explains the over achieved quality on this consistently been referred as the second vine of Único. I love the Único 1995, beautiful lively blueberry, dark cherry fruit aromas from Tempranillo. The palate has however shown more Cabernets, with more currant element and depth/textured that's obviously not a solo Tempranillo can attribute. Although it is delicious now, I found the wine is still not at its best. That somehow trapped, waiting to be burst-out fruit...time will unveil the fullness. Again, I was disappointed, the Único was not served from a decanter.
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