En Primeur Bordeaux 2004s has finally completed their offerings on 2nd week of June. At large, most prices are lower than 2003 with some of the wine prices dropping as much as 30% compared to last year’s opening prices. Most first growth prices are consistently at mid S$200 (ex-Bordeaux) with the exception of Latour, which in my opinion made the best wine for 2004 and its price was considerable higher. Second growths were within the range of S$100-S$150, which presented excellent values especially, since a good majority of these will be excellent drinking upon their release in 2-3 years’ time. In addition, there are many excellent buys, which include wines such as Lascombe (S$56), Calon Segur (S$59), Lagrange (S$43), Rausan Segla (S$65), Domaine Chevalier (S$47)…etc. For more details and recommendation, please continue to read on.
As most reports have shown that 2004 is a difficult vintage to pen down as to which side of the river does better, this late-picked vintage was generally compared to such classic, long-live years like 1988 and 1996. The vintage started cold, with delayed bud brake. Then the weather turned warm and dry, which created a perfect flowering (also a record bud brake) condition that later lead to an abundant crop with large bunches of grapes. The extended heat of June and July further intensify the grapes and setting for a deep color, concentrated and tannic wine. The second week of August brought in rain and lasted for around 13 days. Weather began to turn cold and the grapes struggled to ripen. Fortunately, during the beginning of September, the fine weather returned and the warm weather continued throughout October. Most Merlot were harvested in ideal conditions of dry, sunny weather of late September into early October. Cabernet benefited from longer hanging time, despite some which were picked under rain intervening condition of mid-October.
Unlike 2003 where the crop was smaller and weather was intensely warm, 2004 vintage produces a huge crop and big cluster berries which posed a problem for grape concentration. Intensive vineyard work was required in order to make the best wine for this vintage. Those Chateaus who had the resources to conduct “green harvest”, thinning the brunches, pulling leaves, getting rid of excessive fruit, were able to produce elegant, high-pitched, pure and well structured wines for midto long-term cellaring. For those that could not afford such expensive methods, made wines that lack intensity and ripeness.
My early April tastings at Bordeaux that was organized by Union des Grand Cru Clesse revealed many challenges. First, I did not have the opportunity to taste some of the icon wines such as Montrose, Leoville Las-Cases, Ducru-Beaucaillou, Ausone, Pavie, Lafleur, Petrus, Trotanoy…etc. Secondly, I found many wines to be extremely difficult to access. In Graves, tasting at Smith Haut-Lafitte, I experienced many lean white Graves with almost malic-like (sharp, lime-like acid) acidity found in the wines. Many reds also came across as being hard and fruitless. After learning from Stephen Tanzer on his Bordeaux 2004 reports that, due to the delayed harvest, malolactic fermentation was late including the final blending of the wines. Those wines that did not complete their malolactic in early winter was further delayed due to the extremely cold periods in Bordeaux in late February and early March. He said those early youthfulness, and toughness of some 2004s (which potentially suffer from reducing conditions due to late vinification/élevage) have begin to flesh-out and show more texture and personality in the later part of April.
As most reports have shown that 2004 is a difficult vintage to pen down as to which side of the river does better, this late-picked vintage was generally compared to such classic, long-live years like 1988 and 1996. The vintage started cold, with delayed bud brake. Then the weather turned warm and dry, which created a perfect flowering (also a record bud brake) condition that later lead to an abundant crop with large bunches of grapes. The extended heat of June and July further intensify the grapes and setting for a deep color, concentrated and tannic wine. The second week of August brought in rain and lasted for around 13 days. Weather began to turn cold and the grapes struggled to ripen. Fortunately, during the beginning of September, the fine weather returned and the warm weather continued throughout October. Most Merlot were harvested in ideal conditions of dry, sunny weather of late September into early October. Cabernet benefited from longer hanging time, despite some which were picked under rain intervening condition of mid-October.
Unlike 2003 where the crop was smaller and weather was intensely warm, 2004 vintage produces a huge crop and big cluster berries which posed a problem for grape concentration. Intensive vineyard work was required in order to make the best wine for this vintage. Those Chateaus who had the resources to conduct “green harvest”, thinning the brunches, pulling leaves, getting rid of excessive fruit, were able to produce elegant, high-pitched, pure and well structured wines for midto long-term cellaring. For those that could not afford such expensive methods, made wines that lack intensity and ripeness.
My early April tastings at Bordeaux that was organized by Union des Grand Cru Clesse revealed many challenges. First, I did not have the opportunity to taste some of the icon wines such as Montrose, Leoville Las-Cases, Ducru-Beaucaillou, Ausone, Pavie, Lafleur, Petrus, Trotanoy…etc. Secondly, I found many wines to be extremely difficult to access. In Graves, tasting at Smith Haut-Lafitte, I experienced many lean white Graves with almost malic-like (sharp, lime-like acid) acidity found in the wines. Many reds also came across as being hard and fruitless. After learning from Stephen Tanzer on his Bordeaux 2004 reports that, due to the delayed harvest, malolactic fermentation was late including the final blending of the wines. Those wines that did not complete their malolactic in early winter was further delayed due to the extremely cold periods in Bordeaux in late February and early March. He said those early youthfulness, and toughness of some 2004s (which potentially suffer from reducing conditions due to late vinification/élevage) have begin to flesh-out and show more texture and personality in the later part of April.
Before I begin my recommendations on the Bordeaux en primeur 2004s, may I suggest that everyone read the terms and conditions before making any commitment for the offerings. All prices quoted are ex Bordeaux and in Singapore dollar. All prevailing taxes (GST), alcohol duty and freight charges are not included in these prices. We only offer case purchased for all 2004 en primeurs. No lose bottle or mix-case purchase will be entertained (sorry for this!). The estimated release date for the 2004s is in year 2007.
2004 Chateau Cos d’Estournel, 2nd Growth
Located just next to Lafite Rothschild, this 173 acres of vineyard is planted with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Only vine ages of 25 year-old and above are selected for the grand vine that bear, Chateau Cos d’Estournel. Since the charming Bruno Prats sold this property to Michel Reybier, his son Jean-Guillaume Prats has been retained and continued to lead the winemaking team. Junior Prats seem talented and capable of continuing the past glories of this beautiful estate. For 2004, Cos has increased his Cabernet Sauvignon to 74 % instead of the usual 58%. The gravel soil when its Cabernet is planted has achieved better result than its Merlot. I tasted Cos and Lafite on the same day and both wines seem to echo each other in style – structured, elegant and formidable. Both are wines that are made to last. Probably one of the most ambitious Cos I have ever tasted. - Excellent
Located just next to Lafite Rothschild, this 173 acres of vineyard is planted with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Only vine ages of 25 year-old and above are selected for the grand vine that bear, Chateau Cos d’Estournel. Since the charming Bruno Prats sold this property to Michel Reybier, his son Jean-Guillaume Prats has been retained and continued to lead the winemaking team. Junior Prats seem talented and capable of continuing the past glories of this beautiful estate. For 2004, Cos has increased his Cabernet Sauvignon to 74 % instead of the usual 58%. The gravel soil when its Cabernet is planted has achieved better result than its Merlot. I tasted Cos and Lafite on the same day and both wines seem to echo each other in style – structured, elegant and formidable. Both are wines that are made to last. Probably one of the most ambitious Cos I have ever tasted. - Excellent
2004 Chateau Montrose, 2nd Growth
Owned by Charmolüe family. Chateau Montrose is located at the heart of St.-Estephe and just 5 km from Chateau Latour. Like Latour, Montrose seems to achieve excellent results in 2004, which was declared an usually high yield percentage of wine to the final blend (73%). There is no difference with the grape composition for 2004, with 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and the remaining Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Owned by Charmolüe family. Chateau Montrose is located at the heart of St.-Estephe and just 5 km from Chateau Latour. Like Latour, Montrose seems to achieve excellent results in 2004, which was declared an usually high yield percentage of wine to the final blend (73%). There is no difference with the grape composition for 2004, with 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and the remaining Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Pauillac
2004 Chateau Latour, 1st Growth
2004 Chateau Latour, 1st Growth
Overall, I tasted more interesting and consistent wines from this appellation for 2004. My top of the list would definitely be Chateau Latour, which produces one of the most massive wines with the unusual depth for the vintage. Anyone who tasted this wines blind would think it is coming from one of great years. Mouth-feel texture with persistence flavors and lasting impression. Unlike Lafite, which come across as being more compact and youthfully tannic, 2004 Latour showed more charm during the tastings. The estate since 1993 was acquired by Francois Pinault and after he installed the talented administrator, Frédéric Engerer, the quality of Latour has soared. Today, Latour is consistently making one of the best wines in Pauillac, if not the whole of Medoc. - Excellent.
2004 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, 1st Growth
My early morning tasting at Lafite came with a surprised. First, before my tasting trip to Bordeaux, I was initially told that, the late-harvest vintage of 2004 favor Merlot grape over Cabernet. The day before my tasting at Lafite, I was tasting Chateau Margaux and Rausan-Segla, in which both estate increases their Merlot blend for the 2004. At Lafite, I was surprised to learn that, instead they used up to 90% of Cabernet Sauvignon on their final blend. Another pleasant surprise was that I witnessed Lafite shifting its 2004 vintage to a previous classical style, which featured elegance, pure, high-pitched and vibrant fruits (I was less fond of the recent few vintages made by Lafite new Chef winemaker, Charles Chevallier and found it to be too lush, ripe that lack the previous lively fruits and elegance). The 2004 Lafite is designed to last. The wine is backward and compact during the tasting, but any experienced taster would easily spot that underneath the formidable frame, the inner core of intensity and energy is impressive. If all come true as predicted, the wine will gain weight after élevage. This large-scale, stylish Lafite will be interesting to taste when it eventually hit the market in 2007. - Excellent.
2004 Chateau Lynch-Bages, 5th Growth
At the UGCC tasting at Gruaud-Larose estate, Lynch-Bages stood well among the crowd. A classic Pauillac’s cedar nose in addition to its black fruits. The wine is structured, but with no hard edges. With aeration, the fruit start showing, turning more textured, but overall still fresh and elegant. Lynch-Bages in the past can occasionally run into leather, damp card box, “brett” element characteristics. In this vintage, all those “typicity” of Lynch-Bages were absent and the wine is quite pristine. A 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot blend. - Very good.
2004 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 1st Growth
The modern looking Mouton’s cellar-door reminded me of Napa Valley winery. The 2004 is made-up of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Only 57% made it to the final blend compared to 2003 of 87%. Youthful nose, which unveiled some smoke and spicy oak quality. The palate is more profound, with blackcurrant, cedar, creamy wood and minerals. The wine is very charming and come across with less depth than Latour, but is lush and very appealing. There is good purity and pitch in this beauty. - Excellent
2004 Chateau Pichon Langueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2nd Growth
Proprietor, May Eliane de Lencquesaing was kind and hospitable when I showed up at the Pichon Lalande tasting room without an invitation. She offered 2003 and 2004 vintages for my tastings. Both tasted quite different with 2003 showing more obvious ripeness, more lush and obvious new wood element. 2004 on the other hand come across as being more reserved, but with better vibrancy, racy and more elegance. Overall, 2004 is firmer than the more “sur-maturité” like 2003. - Very good
St. Julien
2004 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, 2nd Growth
You can’t miss this “giant” standing castle while driving through the vine route of St. Julien. The beautiful chateau which seats on the plateau of St.-Julien and having Gironde River as a backdrop has been with The Borie family since 1942. After the departure of late Jean-Eugène Borie in 1998, his eldest son, Bruno Borie has assumed responsibility. It appears that, Ducru-Beaucaillou under the capable hands of Bruno Borie, continues to make one of the most elegant, finesse, burgundy look-alike style of Bordeaux. Borie considered his 2004 as an excellent year and compared this vintage to his estate top vintages such 1970, and potentially surpassing the qualitative aspect. He has done everything necessary for the vintage. The green harvest was carried-out in June to reduce the abundant crop and excessive leaves. Borie also the early figure to acknowledge the benefits of October rain, which slowed down grape progression, accumulating acidity through the alternate cold and warm weather. He further waited to ensure that the grape is thoroughly ripe before harvesting his Merlot on October 4-7 and later his Cabernet Sauvignon on October 9-14. After the initial tasting in January, he decided to increase his Merlot into the final blend, as he felt that, despite his estate Cabernet Sauvignon which was picked in perfect condition, but his Merlot was even better. I did not taste the 2004 Durcru-Beaucaillou, but I have been told by many Bordeaux brokers that the estate potentially made the best St.-Julien for 2004. Don’t miss.
2004 Chateau Gruaud-Larose, 2nd Growth
As age go by, I have begun to learn how to appreciate this wine. This is among the slower in maturing from St.-Julien (second to Levoille Las-Cases). The structured, mineral-quality and purity of this wine are admirable. 2004 is perhaps the most accessible Gruaud-Larose I have tasted from recent years (the chateau changed hands in 1997). Very candied, sweet berries, currant nose (they have done some cold soak this year to maximize the aromatic expression), the palate is quite fat, with telltale mineral quality. There are noticeable structures on the palate to keep the wine focus. Excellent value. - Very good
2004 Chateau Leoville-Barton, 2nd Growth
An estate that enjoyed “hot” runs over for the last few vintages. Proprietor Antony Barton consider himself a traditionalist and disregards those who try to pick their fruit too ripe or to making wine that that resembles the Napa-Cabernet. This estate has consistently been making structured, pure, mineral style of wine that typified this area. I have witnessed his recent vintages improving in texture, and perhaps making riper (not overripe) style of wine. Nonetheless, 2004 has returned to the old classic, with the typical Leoville-Barton’s underbrush, tighter frame and bright violet, cherry, berries-scented fruits. Sound structure and equally profound. - Very good
2004 Chateau Leoville-Las Cases, 2nd Growth
This impeccably run estate is currently under the hands of Jean-Hubert Delon, son of late Michel Delon. I often make the comparison between Leoville-Las Cases being the most tannic, backward of St.-Julien and Ducru-Beaucaillou its opposite, being more charming and feminine. Little has been told that, the highly prolific Michel Rolland is the consultant oenologist of this estate. Like Lafite, the wine is backward, high-pitch fruit that feature good acidity and tannin. The St.-Julien’s mineral nuance could easily be spotted in this wine.
2004 Chateau Lagrange, 3rd Growth
Perhaps the only classified growth that is owned by Asian. The Japanese company Suntory’s chairman, Keizo Saji purchased this estate in 1983, and later installed the highly talented administrator, Marcel Ducasse and their very own oenologist, Kenji Suzuta. 2004 is quite dark in color, with blackcurrant liqueur-like flavors. The sweet entrance and structure background making the wine taste quite fleshy, particularly when the middle palate fruits are not filled due to youthfulness. Need time to fully unveil its potential. - Good
Margaux
2004 Chateau Lascombes, 2nd Growth
2004 Chateau Lascombes, 2nd Growth
This once underachieved producer has started to move recently. Previously, Lascombes wine often suffered from “brett” element, with musty wood, barnyard and damp soil element. The wine come across less rich, occasionally diluted, with little or no evident of aging. The estate was recently sold to an American company, Colony Capital, where the quality-driven new owners brought in Dr. Alain Raynaud of Quinault L’Enclos and Michel Rolland to oversee the winemaking. The resultant wines are evident and what Parker would consider the next Margaux’s top wines, which will eventually challenge the quality of Palmer and Chateau Margaux.
2004 Chateau Margaux, 1st Growth
The estate is owned by the Greek family of Mentzelopoulos since 1977. The late Andre Mentzelopoulos hired the famous Bordeaux oenologist, the late Emile Peynaud as a consultant. Peynaud resurrected Chateau Margaux quality starting with the 1978 vintage. In addition, through Margaux, Peynaud implemented several cellar practices that later led to the modernization of Bordeaux winemaking and the birth of consultant oenologist.
2004 Margaux was priced below last year and leveled the prices with the other first growth likes Lafite, Mouton and Haut-Brion. When we arrived at Chateau Margaux, we were all greeted by the estate director, Paul Potallier. When ask what he thinks about 2004 Margaux? He smiled and reply, “is an elegant vintage and we are optimistic about the quality”.
2004 posed an impressive color, with almost inky ruby. The nose is youthful and restrained, with hint of smoke oak spices. Firm and structured, specially tasted along side with 2003, which was more opulent and showy. The palate is not particularly rich, but is suave and lively. The high-pitch fruit featured in 2004 with violet and berries intrigued me more than the 2003, which was distinctly more currant and dark raspberries. Potallier later told me that, due to the exceptional quality for the 2004 Merlot, they have increased the Merlot on the final blend. That could explain why 2004 come across lighter than previous years. - Excellent
The estate is owned by the Greek family of Mentzelopoulos since 1977. The late Andre Mentzelopoulos hired the famous Bordeaux oenologist, the late Emile Peynaud as a consultant. Peynaud resurrected Chateau Margaux quality starting with the 1978 vintage. In addition, through Margaux, Peynaud implemented several cellar practices that later led to the modernization of Bordeaux winemaking and the birth of consultant oenologist.
2004 Margaux was priced below last year and leveled the prices with the other first growth likes Lafite, Mouton and Haut-Brion. When we arrived at Chateau Margaux, we were all greeted by the estate director, Paul Potallier. When ask what he thinks about 2004 Margaux? He smiled and reply, “is an elegant vintage and we are optimistic about the quality”.
2004 posed an impressive color, with almost inky ruby. The nose is youthful and restrained, with hint of smoke oak spices. Firm and structured, specially tasted along side with 2003, which was more opulent and showy. The palate is not particularly rich, but is suave and lively. The high-pitch fruit featured in 2004 with violet and berries intrigued me more than the 2003, which was distinctly more currant and dark raspberries. Potallier later told me that, due to the exceptional quality for the 2004 Merlot, they have increased the Merlot on the final blend. That could explain why 2004 come across lighter than previous years. - Excellent
2004 Chateau Palmer, 3rd Growth
We walked into this beautiful castle at the roadside of the famous Bordeaux’s Route du Vine without any appointment. Before we could seek the permission to enter the tasting of Chateau Palmer, we were immediately welcomed by a woman in her 50s. She showed great enthusiasm to see our group of Far Eastern visitors. Over the course of conversation, she further expressed her interest on our culture and her previously traveling experience in the East. She even suggested hosting our group at her residence, which was only a short distance from the Chateau! Her generosity and warm reception touched everyone’s heart. I later asked for her name (she claimed that she does not even own a name card) for future reference. She finally wrote on my notepad, Mähler-Besse. Wow! She was actually the co-owner of Chateau Palmer!
The generally hotter, drier and sunnier summer of Margaux commune often produces wine of profound aromatic quality and feminine personality among all Médocs. I have found many top wines for 2004 to be coming from Gravel-based soil. Gravel soil not only provides excellent drainage, the pebbles found on the soil of Chateau Palmer also retained heat, which are capable of keeping the grape ripening progression under the cool conditions. This could possibly explain why Palmer achieved one of the best wines from Margaux for 2004. Not sure is it because of Thomas Duroux (former winemaker of Ornellaia), the newly appointed manager is onboard or because the Merlot achieved great result in 2004. Palmer has increased the Merlot blend to 47% for the 2004. This generously packed, seamless beauty is one of my favorite wines of the vintage. Despite at this youthful stage, the wine already posed exceptional balance, with no hard edge or excessive tannin. In the attractive ripe black cherries, blackberries rich palate, there are equally impressive structure and verve within. Impressive! - Excellent
2004 Chateau Rauzan-Ségla, 2nd Growth
I rarely encounter any good bottle of Rauzan-Segla after Chanel took controlled of this estate in 1993. My old memories of Rauzan-Segla remained for the estate 1986 and 1990 vintages, with the wines often combining earth, leather, smoke and sweet cassis, blackberries in a full yet well spine palate. The newer vintage despite being made in a more pristine and seamless style, but it often lacks the middle palate depth and overall came across as being lighter. I was impressed with 2004 Rauzan-Segla. It offers vanilla-spice, blackberries in a fairly rich palate. The Merlot proportion also increased this year to 42% instead of previous 35%. - Good
Graves
2004 Domaine de Chevalier
Not sure it is because this estate has chosen to called Domaine instead of the traditional Bordelaise’s Chateau. The wine tasted here has much similarity in style with Burgundy. Olivier Bernard has again turned out one of the most stylish wines of Bordeaux. High-pitch fruits of raspberries, blueberries and mineral in a elegant and gentle palate. Very sexy and attractive with soft and ripe tannin in an exclusive balanced palate. The wine offered usual delicate and feminine personality. - Good
2004 Chateau Haut-Brion, 1st Growth
The UGCC tasting on Graves wine in Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte was among the bigger mix-bag in quality with many famous names failing to achieve balance in their rather hard and austere wines. Many wines suffered from lack of sufficient materials to support the rather dry and mean tannin. As for the white Graves, there was plenty of downright acidic, thin wine, which the rather malic like acid almost disturbingly tart on the finish palate.
2004 Haut-Brion seem to have shifted from previous its modern, creamy wood, raspberries-liqueur and suppleness style. Despite the high percentage of Merlot (61%), this classic, structured wine offers telltale tobacco leaf with black fruits and mineral quality in a lush, layers palate. At this youthful stage, the tannin is noticeable, but is both polished and balance. - Excellent
2004 Chateau La Mission-Haut-Brion
My favorite Bordeaux. 2004 La Mission is less charming and not as full as Haut-Brion. The vanillin wood with kirsch-like nose is quite backward during the tasting. However, I enjoyed the overall precision, purity of this large-scaled beauty. Very elegant and plenty of finesse. Perhaps the high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon found in this wine is making it less attractive today? - Very good
2004 Chateau La Tour-Haut-Brion
This estate once made wines that challenge the very best of Haut-Brion and La Mission under the Woltner family. I was completely blown away when I tasted the estate 1978 vintage. Plenty of tobacco, grilled steak, and the exuberantly rich and suave palate – yummy! 2004 has wonderful Merlot characters of sweet black cherry nose. The palate is rather shy at this stage, featuring plenty of tannin and well-delineated personality. Perhaps, this high Merlot wine will flesh-out after two years, when it eventually hit the market. Patience is what you need for this wine. - Very good
2004 Chateau Pape Clement
Owner Bernard Magrez is putting a very effort in making one of the finest 2004 Graves. This modern style of wine was cropped for a modest 38 hectoliters per hectare and grapes were hand-sorted. Pape Clement was also among the last to harvest for their Merlot in 30 September to 4 October and Cabernet Sauvignon between 13 to 22 October. 2004 is deep in color, with sweet cassis, black raspberries in addition to smoke wood. The palate is lushed and concentrated, with almost matured Cabernet-soy element. The acidity and tannin are both sound and supported nicely with the rather full and rich palate. - Very good
2004 Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte
I hope I am not biased, but I always enjoyed drinking Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte, especially since it brought back old memories. I was at the Chateau, when Florence and Denial Cathiard first took over the estate in 1991. It was also my first visit to Bordeaux. 2004 is a classic dark fruits, menthol style (this wine often carried menthol element) of Smith Haut-Lafitte. Similar black fruits and sweet oak in a rather fleshy palate. The youthful tannin somehow made the wine tasted lighter than it should. But overall is quite in harmony with excellent purity. - Good
