In the world of wine, there are wines that dedicate their name to Christianity, like Bouchard in Burgundy, called one of his Beaune 1er Cru, Grèves Vigne De L'Enfant Jésus (direct translated as vine of Jesus Child (despite the true tale on how the wine was named was however different), and in Italy, one of the famous Campanian wine also called itself, Lacrima Cristi (the tear of Christ).
Sangiovese grape, the soul of Tuscan, was actually name that was derived from sanguis Jovis, or "blood of Jove". Sangiovese is perhaps the most common and widely planted grape not just in Tuscan, but the whole Italy. It accounts for 10% of the entire grape crop of Italy, some 247,000 acres planted. Sangiovese has many blood-line, it is known as Sangiovese in both Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna (one of the most overrated DOCG wines), but the better Sangiovese in Tuscan is however the low-yield, smaller berries clone known as Sangiovese Grosso, or Sangioveto, closer to those that grown in Montalcino, which locally called, Brunello. In Vino Nobile di Montepulciano it is however known as Prugnolo Gentile, in Maremma, is called, Morellino, which made the famous Morellino di Scansano.
When you think about Sangiovese, Chianti come immediately in mind. Before Baron Ricasoli introduces the basic Chainti blend in 1890s. Chianti was once made entirely from Sangiovese grape. However during then, wine made solely from Sangiovese were somewhat hard and acid, observed by Cosimo Trinci in 1738. Baron Bettino Ricasoli found a way to tame the hard Sangiovese by adding the softer Canaiolo grape, along with some white grape like Trebbiano and Malvasia to improve the fragrance. The governo style (mostly discarded these days), which then popularise the technique in Chianti (remember when Chianti was used to be packed in straw-covered fiasci bottle?), by blending the unfermented grape juice to young wine to sweeten and compensate the high-acid Sangiovese. The Ricasoli's century-old formula was in 1966 (oddly, after nearly a century later) codified into law as the official blend for Chianti. However, the once poor countryside of Chianti became prospered after Autostrada (freeway) was build in 1960s. The situation changed. The newly arrived owners, were mostly the new rich from Rome and Milan, with their ambition and money, they have brought along their attitude towards their success in the city and applied to their vineyard. Since they know nothing about winegrowing, they have to rely on their consultant winemakers, which many of them were well-traveled, trained, quality-oriented, ambitious individual that strive to make a statement for themselves. The old-fashion Ricasoli's formula became the obstacle in the pathway. In 1980s, those quality-driven, most ambitious growers have told the government of Chianti-Classico that they would be abandoning the DOCG system and declared their wines as the lower, most generic designations of Vino da Tavola in return to have the freedom to make what they want. Thus, Super Tuscan was born!
Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against Super Tusacn, and in fact, some well site Super Tuscan can be equally thrilling. Name like San Guido's Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Antinori's Solaia, Isole e Olena's Collezione de Marchi...etc. However, there are more Chianti producers, conveniently tapping on the international demand for such new sensation, have all launched their so called, supertuscan (to give them the excuse to charged more - while, someone got to pay for those pricey French oak barrels), where many of them are excessively oaked and since their "international" grapes (Cabernets, Syrah, Merlot) blend were louder than their more subtle indigenousness Sangiovese. They all fall into the undistinguished "international-style", where the soul of Sangiovese has completely been buried and the wines have nothing in common with Chianti.
Like all emerging wine region (despite being an old wine producing country. the true quality revolution in Italy only begins in the last two-three decades ago), Tuscan also struggle to find its identity. The early blend of Sangiovese with international grape such as Cabernets, Merlot, Syrah despite enjoying quick success due to their modern, familiar international outfit. However, the audience soon realized that, those "international" were boring in the same way that all airports, despite well designed, but look alike (famous quote from Matt Kramer). During than, the better foresight producers such as Isole e Olena (with Cepparello), Fontodi (with Falaccianello), Monsanto (Il Poggio Riserva), Montevertine (La Pergola Torte), Riecine (La Gioia) were all opposing the use of "international" grape in their blend, but chose instead to stand by their very own, Sangiovese. They are convinced, the uniqueness of Sangiovese, which behave much like the tricky Pinot Noir, does not strive well outside their home land, but found it best here in Tuscany, which will ultimately be the answers to their future for Tuscan's wines.
Today, the image of Sangiovese in Tuscan has been restored and more and more Tuscan producer has returned to their indigenous grape and rediscovered its beauty!
Sangiovese grape, the soul of Tuscan, was actually name that was derived from sanguis Jovis, or "blood of Jove". Sangiovese is perhaps the most common and widely planted grape not just in Tuscan, but the whole Italy. It accounts for 10% of the entire grape crop of Italy, some 247,000 acres planted. Sangiovese has many blood-line, it is known as Sangiovese in both Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna (one of the most overrated DOCG wines), but the better Sangiovese in Tuscan is however the low-yield, smaller berries clone known as Sangiovese Grosso, or Sangioveto, closer to those that grown in Montalcino, which locally called, Brunello. In Vino Nobile di Montepulciano it is however known as Prugnolo Gentile, in Maremma, is called, Morellino, which made the famous Morellino di Scansano.
When you think about Sangiovese, Chianti come immediately in mind. Before Baron Ricasoli introduces the basic Chainti blend in 1890s. Chianti was once made entirely from Sangiovese grape. However during then, wine made solely from Sangiovese were somewhat hard and acid, observed by Cosimo Trinci in 1738. Baron Bettino Ricasoli found a way to tame the hard Sangiovese by adding the softer Canaiolo grape, along with some white grape like Trebbiano and Malvasia to improve the fragrance. The governo style (mostly discarded these days), which then popularise the technique in Chianti (remember when Chianti was used to be packed in straw-covered fiasci bottle?), by blending the unfermented grape juice to young wine to sweeten and compensate the high-acid Sangiovese. The Ricasoli's century-old formula was in 1966 (oddly, after nearly a century later) codified into law as the official blend for Chianti. However, the once poor countryside of Chianti became prospered after Autostrada (freeway) was build in 1960s. The situation changed. The newly arrived owners, were mostly the new rich from Rome and Milan, with their ambition and money, they have brought along their attitude towards their success in the city and applied to their vineyard. Since they know nothing about winegrowing, they have to rely on their consultant winemakers, which many of them were well-traveled, trained, quality-oriented, ambitious individual that strive to make a statement for themselves. The old-fashion Ricasoli's formula became the obstacle in the pathway. In 1980s, those quality-driven, most ambitious growers have told the government of Chianti-Classico that they would be abandoning the DOCG system and declared their wines as the lower, most generic designations of Vino da Tavola in return to have the freedom to make what they want. Thus, Super Tuscan was born!
Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against Super Tusacn, and in fact, some well site Super Tuscan can be equally thrilling. Name like San Guido's Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Antinori's Solaia, Isole e Olena's Collezione de Marchi...etc. However, there are more Chianti producers, conveniently tapping on the international demand for such new sensation, have all launched their so called, supertuscan (to give them the excuse to charged more - while, someone got to pay for those pricey French oak barrels), where many of them are excessively oaked and since their "international" grapes (Cabernets, Syrah, Merlot) blend were louder than their more subtle indigenousness Sangiovese. They all fall into the undistinguished "international-style", where the soul of Sangiovese has completely been buried and the wines have nothing in common with Chianti.
Like all emerging wine region (despite being an old wine producing country. the true quality revolution in Italy only begins in the last two-three decades ago), Tuscan also struggle to find its identity. The early blend of Sangiovese with international grape such as Cabernets, Merlot, Syrah despite enjoying quick success due to their modern, familiar international outfit. However, the audience soon realized that, those "international" were boring in the same way that all airports, despite well designed, but look alike (famous quote from Matt Kramer). During than, the better foresight producers such as Isole e Olena (with Cepparello), Fontodi (with Falaccianello), Monsanto (Il Poggio Riserva), Montevertine (La Pergola Torte), Riecine (La Gioia) were all opposing the use of "international" grape in their blend, but chose instead to stand by their very own, Sangiovese. They are convinced, the uniqueness of Sangiovese, which behave much like the tricky Pinot Noir, does not strive well outside their home land, but found it best here in Tuscany, which will ultimately be the answers to their future for Tuscan's wines.
Today, the image of Sangiovese in Tuscan has been restored and more and more Tuscan producer has returned to their indigenous grape and rediscovered its beauty!
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