Friday, May 18, 2007

The Visionary of Tuscan – Paolo de Marchi (July 05)

I was first introduced to Isole e Olena in 1991 after reading The Wine Spectator magazine article on two of the most highly scored Super Tuscans (Isole e Olena Cepparello 1988 and Fontodi’s Flaccianello 1988) that were made solely from local Sangiovese grapes. I later persuaded a small wine company called, Latin Asia to bring in this estate to Singapore and subsequently, the wine was listed in Ristorante Bologna, where I performed my duty as a Sommelier.

I later visited Tuscan under a sponsorship from Marina Mandarin Hotel and began my first wine expedition. I got an appointment to visit Isole e Olena through their local wine distributor and after some 45 minutes journey on bumpy road, I finally arrived at the estate with the help of Paolo’s wife, Marta.

Isole e Olena, is a name taken from two separate vineyard block of Isole and Olena. The earlier stage of this estate was operated in a small farmhouse, where the front part of the house was designated for office, labeling, and packing. The garage backyard was a store with different barrels in size, winemaking tools and vinification tanks. This little tiny area is where the native Piedmontese, Paolo de Marchi made his world-renowned Sangiovese.

Back in 1991, Italy or Tuscany had just begun their early quality revolution. New ideas, new winemaking approach and new winemaking equipments were all starting to pour into this once remote, old fashion winemaking region, where their skills were taught through father-to-son and there was no existence of modern oenology school. Many wineries I visited then where the winemaker were anxious to show me their modern cellars, latest equipment, new French oak barrels and their innovative used of foreign grape varieties like Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and blending in them into their local Sangiovese grape. When I visited Paolo de Marchi, he was completely different from his peers. He told me from start, there is nothing to see at his cellar, but “let’s go to my vineyards.”

Paolo was simply in a different league of his own. When the rest of Tuscan producers were experimenting with the new gadgets in their cellars and fascinated with the new flavors delivered from wine aged in new French oak. Paolo was spending most of his time in the vineyard, exploring different viticulture techniques like the density of the vine, trellising system, clonal select. He worked closely with the local University on various Sangiovese clones study. Today, all those efforts have paid-off for his early vision. Paolo is a respected figure in Italy, his work and achievement with the indigenous grape likes Sangiovese has made him the leading authority in the field.

Beside, his work on native grape, he was also a pioneer in introducing foreign grapes such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah under his experimental label called, Collezione de Marchi. He consistently turned out one of the most distinctive, elegant and refined Cabernet Sauvignon in Italy that won praises locally and abroad, from magazines such as The Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate. His northern Rhône inspired Syrah, not only is he the pioneer in this grape, but perhaps, the only producer that truly captivated the quintessential Syrah characters.

I recently visited him at his estate at Barberino Val d’Elsa near Castellina. He has constructed a brand name administrative office, an impressive underground wine cellar that was built within the tunnel of the hills. Today, Paolo is successful, but fewer people knew that, he has come a long way to be recognized and credited for his long deserve achievement. Interestingly, the tireless and workaholic Paolo has just informed me that, he is finally returning to his family roots and will soon be making wine from his family vineyard in Piedmont. I can’t wait to taste these!

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