The weather in the past week has been nothing but depressing. I am equally upset as fewer of my golf games were forced to cancel due to wet weather.
Much as everyone was chasing for all the super-Tuscan, where any wines that ended with the "aia" will be both ultimately expensive and quality assured. In a remote, quiet hillside of Montalcino, south-western of Siena, a wine called "Brunello" (literary mean, little brown one) was quietly making some of the best wine in the region known for their quality and aging ability. Long before the arrival of the highly fashionable super-Tuscan, before so called the quality revolution in Tuscany, before Chianti used to drink like a diluted ribena (blackcurrant syrup), Ferruccio Biondi-Santi already successfully created a super-Sangiovese clone, that had smaller, more rot-resistant berries, which he later called it, Brunello. The big bang of this "little brown one" began in 1888 vintage. Since than, it was regarded by the local as their finest product, their pride that not least than the Barolo for piedmontese.
The Italian wine authority, Daniel Thomases of Veronelli once mentioned in his article, "Sardinian kidnapping gangs once hide their victims in the forests of Montalcino and remain under cover for months". Montalcino is a isolated place with wild land and thick woods that's completely cut off from the rest of Tuscan. In the late 1960s, there were fewer than 150 acres of vineyards and no more than six or seven labels on the market. It has rose to 4,893 acres of vines with 135 different producers today. Despite much report has credited the 1990 vintage to be the vintage that draws the world wine audience into Montalcino, however, it was the 1997 vintage, when Wine Spectator declared (or assumed?) this year to be the "vintage of the century" that Brunello became the overnight hot commodity. My memory of that year remained fresh, it was 2001, and out of sudden, all my 1997 Brunello in my shop at Orchard Tower (I know, a place otherwise known for something else!) were snapped off! What a phenomenon from the influence of the press! (history has otherwise thought us - never sue a press!)
With all the new producers emerging, many less favorable vineyards were cultivated, and mostly, with younger vines. Making buying Brunello a difficult task. These days, there are many Brunello in the market place, with their raw materials being less sounding and are consistently being cosmetically enhanced, or should I say, masked with new French oak barrels. One can be easily fooled by those highly attractive sweetness that derive from the new oak and lushness from their early "baby-fat". Much like those beautiful Hollywood actresses before and after their makeup! However, overtime, the weakness will unveil. I also happen to disagree with those who try to make, bigger-the-better, California-and Australia-big-fruit-style. Those wines despite well loved by the American press, it was however lacking in finesse and distinction. Let's hope the situation will improve, as previously, this region was dominated by one wine consultant, but recently saw Luca D'Attoma (Poggio San Polo), Alberto Antonini (Col d'Orcia), Franco Bernabei (Lisini), Carlo Ferrini (Casanova di Neri), Stefano Chioccioli (Fanti) all taken on the consulting role in this area. Hopefully, that in turn, will translate better diversity.
Montalcino area, due to it's dry and hot climate, generally harvest their grape much earlier than in Chianti. The stylistic of Montalcino largely influenced by two very distinct zones - the north zone, which surrounds the town of Montalcino. The soil here tends to be rich in galestro (marl-like, similar to those best vineyard sites in Chianti Classico) than clay. Combined with the high altitude here, resulting wine with natural high acidity and leaner more austere style that required long aging to bring out their fullness. In the southern, Sant'Angelo area, the warmer weather combined soil that is dominated with clay and limestone, produces fuller, richer, more accessible wine in their youth. One of the finest vineyard in this area is, Argiano, which enjoy the higher plateau of 350 metres above sea level that benefit from the idea cool night, warm day.
The historical estate of Argiano (historically date back to 1570) is currently owned by Comtessa Noemi Marone Cinzano, the same family that previously owned the famous Italian aperitif - Cinzano. The early director of this estate, Sebastiano Rosa, stepson of Nicolo Incisa delle Rocchetta of Tenuta San Guido's Sassicaia, introduces the "The Father of Modern-Day Italian" - Giacomo Tachis as the estate consultant (also the created of Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia, D'Alceo). Tachis has help to create the flagship wine of Argiano - Solengo (Syrah/Merlot/Cabernet blend), which credits the early popularity of this estate since the Cinzano regime. The recent move of bringing in, Hans Vinding-Diers (son of Peter Vinding-Diers of Chateau Rahoul in Graves and cousin of Peter Sisseck of Dominio de Pingus) as the new winemaker for Argiano has once again created headlines in this conservative, close community town (in the town of Montalcino, everyone seem to know everyone!). Obviously, the stylistic of Argiano's wine has changed over the years. One is not difficult to notice that, the amount of new wood treatment has increased over the year, the fruits are tasted much richer and riper. According to Argiano former director of sale, Dr. Pepe Schib Graciani, they are moving to further improve the quality for the estate most important wine - Brunello di Montalcino. The crop size will be further reduce to some 20-30% in order to make stricter, more rigor selection, and only the finest fruit, will go into the Brunello. Two weeks ago, I have tasted their 2001 Brunello di Montalcino over a course of 5-6 hours. Obviously, the current bottling shown more evident of new wood aspect (mocha, sweet-oak) and the palate also displays more modern-Brunello liquorous texture (more lush and seamless). However, after some 2-3 hours aeration, more typical Sangiovese's dusty, smoky elements have emerged, and the wine density to last for such a long period of aeration is clearly contributed by the prime vineyard site and old vine, low yield.
Much as everyone was chasing for all the super-Tuscan, where any wines that ended with the "aia" will be both ultimately expensive and quality assured. In a remote, quiet hillside of Montalcino, south-western of Siena, a wine called "Brunello" (literary mean, little brown one) was quietly making some of the best wine in the region known for their quality and aging ability. Long before the arrival of the highly fashionable super-Tuscan, before so called the quality revolution in Tuscany, before Chianti used to drink like a diluted ribena (blackcurrant syrup), Ferruccio Biondi-Santi already successfully created a super-Sangiovese clone, that had smaller, more rot-resistant berries, which he later called it, Brunello. The big bang of this "little brown one" began in 1888 vintage. Since than, it was regarded by the local as their finest product, their pride that not least than the Barolo for piedmontese.
The Italian wine authority, Daniel Thomases of Veronelli once mentioned in his article, "Sardinian kidnapping gangs once hide their victims in the forests of Montalcino and remain under cover for months". Montalcino is a isolated place with wild land and thick woods that's completely cut off from the rest of Tuscan. In the late 1960s, there were fewer than 150 acres of vineyards and no more than six or seven labels on the market. It has rose to 4,893 acres of vines with 135 different producers today. Despite much report has credited the 1990 vintage to be the vintage that draws the world wine audience into Montalcino, however, it was the 1997 vintage, when Wine Spectator declared (or assumed?) this year to be the "vintage of the century" that Brunello became the overnight hot commodity. My memory of that year remained fresh, it was 2001, and out of sudden, all my 1997 Brunello in my shop at Orchard Tower (I know, a place otherwise known for something else!) were snapped off! What a phenomenon from the influence of the press! (history has otherwise thought us - never sue a press!)
With all the new producers emerging, many less favorable vineyards were cultivated, and mostly, with younger vines. Making buying Brunello a difficult task. These days, there are many Brunello in the market place, with their raw materials being less sounding and are consistently being cosmetically enhanced, or should I say, masked with new French oak barrels. One can be easily fooled by those highly attractive sweetness that derive from the new oak and lushness from their early "baby-fat". Much like those beautiful Hollywood actresses before and after their makeup! However, overtime, the weakness will unveil. I also happen to disagree with those who try to make, bigger-the-better, California-and Australia-big-fruit-style. Those wines despite well loved by the American press, it was however lacking in finesse and distinction. Let's hope the situation will improve, as previously, this region was dominated by one wine consultant, but recently saw Luca D'Attoma (Poggio San Polo), Alberto Antonini (Col d'Orcia), Franco Bernabei (Lisini), Carlo Ferrini (Casanova di Neri), Stefano Chioccioli (Fanti) all taken on the consulting role in this area. Hopefully, that in turn, will translate better diversity.
Montalcino area, due to it's dry and hot climate, generally harvest their grape much earlier than in Chianti. The stylistic of Montalcino largely influenced by two very distinct zones - the north zone, which surrounds the town of Montalcino. The soil here tends to be rich in galestro (marl-like, similar to those best vineyard sites in Chianti Classico) than clay. Combined with the high altitude here, resulting wine with natural high acidity and leaner more austere style that required long aging to bring out their fullness. In the southern, Sant'Angelo area, the warmer weather combined soil that is dominated with clay and limestone, produces fuller, richer, more accessible wine in their youth. One of the finest vineyard in this area is, Argiano, which enjoy the higher plateau of 350 metres above sea level that benefit from the idea cool night, warm day.
The historical estate of Argiano (historically date back to 1570) is currently owned by Comtessa Noemi Marone Cinzano, the same family that previously owned the famous Italian aperitif - Cinzano. The early director of this estate, Sebastiano Rosa, stepson of Nicolo Incisa delle Rocchetta of Tenuta San Guido's Sassicaia, introduces the "The Father of Modern-Day Italian" - Giacomo Tachis as the estate consultant (also the created of Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia, D'Alceo). Tachis has help to create the flagship wine of Argiano - Solengo (Syrah/Merlot/Cabernet blend), which credits the early popularity of this estate since the Cinzano regime. The recent move of bringing in, Hans Vinding-Diers (son of Peter Vinding-Diers of Chateau Rahoul in Graves and cousin of Peter Sisseck of Dominio de Pingus) as the new winemaker for Argiano has once again created headlines in this conservative, close community town (in the town of Montalcino, everyone seem to know everyone!). Obviously, the stylistic of Argiano's wine has changed over the years. One is not difficult to notice that, the amount of new wood treatment has increased over the year, the fruits are tasted much richer and riper. According to Argiano former director of sale, Dr. Pepe Schib Graciani, they are moving to further improve the quality for the estate most important wine - Brunello di Montalcino. The crop size will be further reduce to some 20-30% in order to make stricter, more rigor selection, and only the finest fruit, will go into the Brunello. Two weeks ago, I have tasted their 2001 Brunello di Montalcino over a course of 5-6 hours. Obviously, the current bottling shown more evident of new wood aspect (mocha, sweet-oak) and the palate also displays more modern-Brunello liquorous texture (more lush and seamless). However, after some 2-3 hours aeration, more typical Sangiovese's dusty, smoky elements have emerged, and the wine density to last for such a long period of aeration is clearly contributed by the prime vineyard site and old vine, low yield.
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