I did not attend this year en primeur campaign in Bordeaux. However, I have done the research based on the weather report from Bill Blatch of Vintex (almost everyone in the field uses his vintage assessment), 2006 Bordeaux reviewed by Parker , James Suckling and Jancis Robinson to providing the following overviews of this quality-mixed vintage.
There were several events that took place which characterized the vintage of 2006. First of all, this is a weather-delayed vintage, which generally produces more classic-Bordeaux style of restrained, elegant, tannin wines. This vintage has started-off optimistically and look to be another return of the glorious 2005 quality. Since the vines has still not recovered from the previous drought years of 2003, 2005, the vine recognized to keep the same output as last year in order to fight for another possible drought for survival. So, the potential yield has been low from start, which indicated from the number of embryo bunches. 2006 winter is the cooler of the last 25 years, which results in late, but healthy budding. The spring rainfall was lower than average, but the longest heatwave that lasted 19 days looked as though it was another return of the extreme weather of the exceptional 2003. The véraison (grape changing of color) started early, especially for the early-ripening Merlot, however it was blocked and spun out longer than usual due to drought where the vine naturally shut down the vegetative circle. It has result in uneven ripeness of grapes, which account for some greenness found in some 2006s. The best 2006s are those with well-financed Châteaus that can afford to do severe sorting. However, August changed things dramatically. The gloomy August swelled and weakened the grapes with its cool and damp weather. The best Châteaus are those that work hard throughout August to do de-leafings, crop-thinnings, preventing the risk of rot as well as reduces the crop load in order to encourage better ripeness. After a moist August, the early September saw the weather changed, the hot and dry September helped to build up the grapes sugar levels, which also explained some exceptional dry graves being produced due to their early ripening. The earliest Merlots in Pomerol and Graves that picked before the heavy rain of September 11 have been the most successful category of 2006 reds. From September 11th-25th heavy rain fell across the region, exception for Cabernet Sauvignon, which resisted well with the rain, however, both Cabernet Franc and Petit-Verdot struggled to ripe. Cabernet Sauvignon has further concentrated when the return of ideal warm weather in late September, early October. In general, Cabernet Sauvignon also fared better than the Merlots, particularly for the late-picked Merlots in St.-Emilion, which appears to be the wild card in this vintage, according to Parker.
Here are some remarks from famous Bordeaux vignerons during the recent interview by James Suckling;
"This is a year when great terroir (in this case referred as vineyard) triumphed" said Denis Durantou of L'Église Clinet.
"Only producers with great vineyards who worked seriously made serious wines...it wasn't a great year," said Jean-Philippe Mascles, cellar master of Haut-Brion.
"If we had this year 10 years ago it would have been a very average year, but these days, we have the resources to make excellent wines now in such vintage," said Thomas Duroux of Château Palmer.
"The 2006 is a great classic but in a modern way. It is not closed, like the old classics. They are more dense and open," said Paul Pontailler of Château Margaux.
" I would have loved a little more fun in this wine. It is a little serious," said Frédéric Engere of Château Latour.
"These are not modern wines by any means, they are wines that are going to need lots of aging," said Charles Chevalier of Château Lafite
For those who are keen about the latest Bordeaux scene, I am pleased to update you the following changes. L'Arrosee of St.-Emilion has changed ownership, new owner Roger Caille has hired oenologist Gilles Pauguet (same consultant for Cheval Blanc & Figeac) as their consultant; Pierre Seillan and Californian vintner, Jess Jackson St.-Emilion project has released their first debut of Lasseque from St.-Emilion; Montrose has welcome the new winemaker onboard, Jean-Bernard Delmas, former winemaker of Haut-Brion, La Mission; Pichon Lalande after acquired by Roederer Champagne has seek advise from Hubert de Boüard of L'Angélus as consultant; La-Tour-Haut-Brion has ended their production this year. All the fruit of this once famous Château will eventually goes into La Mission Haut-Brion and it second wine.
There were several events that took place which characterized the vintage of 2006. First of all, this is a weather-delayed vintage, which generally produces more classic-Bordeaux style of restrained, elegant, tannin wines. This vintage has started-off optimistically and look to be another return of the glorious 2005 quality. Since the vines has still not recovered from the previous drought years of 2003, 2005, the vine recognized to keep the same output as last year in order to fight for another possible drought for survival. So, the potential yield has been low from start, which indicated from the number of embryo bunches. 2006 winter is the cooler of the last 25 years, which results in late, but healthy budding. The spring rainfall was lower than average, but the longest heatwave that lasted 19 days looked as though it was another return of the extreme weather of the exceptional 2003. The véraison (grape changing of color) started early, especially for the early-ripening Merlot, however it was blocked and spun out longer than usual due to drought where the vine naturally shut down the vegetative circle. It has result in uneven ripeness of grapes, which account for some greenness found in some 2006s. The best 2006s are those with well-financed Châteaus that can afford to do severe sorting. However, August changed things dramatically. The gloomy August swelled and weakened the grapes with its cool and damp weather. The best Châteaus are those that work hard throughout August to do de-leafings, crop-thinnings, preventing the risk of rot as well as reduces the crop load in order to encourage better ripeness. After a moist August, the early September saw the weather changed, the hot and dry September helped to build up the grapes sugar levels, which also explained some exceptional dry graves being produced due to their early ripening. The earliest Merlots in Pomerol and Graves that picked before the heavy rain of September 11 have been the most successful category of 2006 reds. From September 11th-25th heavy rain fell across the region, exception for Cabernet Sauvignon, which resisted well with the rain, however, both Cabernet Franc and Petit-Verdot struggled to ripe. Cabernet Sauvignon has further concentrated when the return of ideal warm weather in late September, early October. In general, Cabernet Sauvignon also fared better than the Merlots, particularly for the late-picked Merlots in St.-Emilion, which appears to be the wild card in this vintage, according to Parker.
Here are some remarks from famous Bordeaux vignerons during the recent interview by James Suckling;
"This is a year when great terroir (in this case referred as vineyard) triumphed" said Denis Durantou of L'Église Clinet.
"Only producers with great vineyards who worked seriously made serious wines...it wasn't a great year," said Jean-Philippe Mascles, cellar master of Haut-Brion.
"If we had this year 10 years ago it would have been a very average year, but these days, we have the resources to make excellent wines now in such vintage," said Thomas Duroux of Château Palmer.
"The 2006 is a great classic but in a modern way. It is not closed, like the old classics. They are more dense and open," said Paul Pontailler of Château Margaux.
" I would have loved a little more fun in this wine. It is a little serious," said Frédéric Engere of Château Latour.
"These are not modern wines by any means, they are wines that are going to need lots of aging," said Charles Chevalier of Château Lafite
For those who are keen about the latest Bordeaux scene, I am pleased to update you the following changes. L'Arrosee of St.-Emilion has changed ownership, new owner Roger Caille has hired oenologist Gilles Pauguet (same consultant for Cheval Blanc & Figeac) as their consultant; Pierre Seillan and Californian vintner, Jess Jackson St.-Emilion project has released their first debut of Lasseque from St.-Emilion; Montrose has welcome the new winemaker onboard, Jean-Bernard Delmas, former winemaker of Haut-Brion, La Mission; Pichon Lalande after acquired by Roederer Champagne has seek advise from Hubert de Boüard of L'Angélus as consultant; La-Tour-Haut-Brion has ended their production this year. All the fruit of this once famous Château will eventually goes into La Mission Haut-Brion and it second wine.
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