Friday, May 18, 2007

Aussie Shiraz

Vintage Reports
2004 – This vintage was earlier said to be a repeat of 1998 glory, but failed to live up to the high hope, according to Jeremy Oliver. High yield was the major issue and concern. Big cluster and higher in juice to skin ratio, which meant concentration could be compromised. 2004, in general is an easier vintage to deal with for grower compared to the freakish, drought threat 2003 crop. A near perfect growing condition to kick start, follow by some scorching temperatures. The rest of the ripening season was without any major threat of rain or disease except for Tasmania, in which Botrytis was widespread. South Australia suffered more of the heat spell in the early growing season than other regions. The hilly Mclaren Vale was spared and less affected compared to those flatland of Barossa Valley. Particularly, Langhorne Creek, where Noon is from, made one of their finest vintages. The elevated vineyard of Adelaide Hills and the ocean maritime influence of Coonawarra were both performed well. Victoria in general has more even result except for the northern regions where reds suffered from heat. Both Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula enjoyed a good season that produced some flavorsome reds that are well-buffered with sound acidity. Meanwhile, Western Australia, was said to produce the most successful vintage of all regions of Australia - making some very fine and elegant wines.

2003 – This is clearly one of the most challenging vintages for wine growers in Australia. It was a year that both extremes met. Cool spell during flowering that caused uneven formation of buds that led to a reduction of potential crop size. The low crop vintage of 2003 also pushed the growing circle and ripened earlier than usual. Many well-drained, less fertile soils were seriously affected by drought. March brought in rains and to many observers, is the key saver for South Australia Shirazes by slowing down the rapid growing. In general, the Shiraz performed better than Cabernet Sauvignon in Barossa and McLaren Vale. Further south, Coonawarra and Padthaway came up with similar results except for Langhorne Creek, which was considered by Jeremy Oliver as the star of the vintage.

My Thoughts
Despite my palate these days shifting toward a lighter, food-friendly style of wine, I have continued to admire the consistency of quality from the downunder year-after-year.

Unlike Syrah from Santa Barbara, which personally, I have found them to be less exciting and lacking the personality beyond the facile sweet oak and lushness. Old vines Shirazes from Australia on the other hand are unique and translate more of the climate and regional personality. For instance, the southern Australian Shirazes generally are richer and more powerful compared to those of Victoria, which come across as being more elegant, more pronounced in acidity and details of cooler-climate berry fruits. In addition, the practice of wood aging also separates the style of these two areas with Barossa general preference to age in stronger, more obvious toastiness of American oak and the Victorian-like subtle French oak that enables their wines to highlight its regional distinction.

The arrival of “Parkerization” in Australia has opened a new window of opportunity for the sale of Australian wines in the US. It has also influenced a group of emerging young producers trying to emulate the palate of Robert Parker, making outsized, gigantic, overriped, sometime port-like style of wines. The domestic wine writers of Australia have largely criticized wines of such new found style, saying it has no real fruit (or dead fruits) and wines coming across as too raisiny. Many also penalized wines of such are high volatile acidity and brettanomyces.

Like Piedmont and wine regions such as Spain, I have witnessed similar style changes with the invasion of powerful American critics. Regions like Piedmont was once criticized for excessive use of new French oak treatment, losing traditional benchmark and falling into “internationalization” style of wines. Over the years, and I have said that on my last article, the Piedmontese have evolved - today, their wines not only found balance between the traditionalist and modernist but their unique style has further strengthened with the demand that was not seen previously. This scenario could well be repeated for Australian wines in years to come.

Last week, I hosted two tastings for two distinctive wine producers of Australia - Tony Brady’s Wendouree and Ron Laughton’s Jasper Hill. Wendouree is a unique style of wine from northern extreme of South Australia – Clare Valley. This estate is quietly making one of the purest, age-worthy reds that are admired by a group of discerning consumers that buy regularly from the producer’s mailing list. At its best, the wine unveiled the elegant, purity, often red-fruits quality in addition to the Piedmont-like earth, tightly-core personality, which is both unique and rare for Australian. Clearly, the style has more in common with European wines rather than Australian. I have previously encountered wines of such style like Mount Mary “Quintet”, but honestly, I am not convinced and clearly, both wines cannot be compared in the same league as Wendouree has far more depth and precision than the latter wine.
It was so kind for the Laughton family to visit my office and to host a launch of his 2003 vintages (please log on to our website www.apfw.com.sg for photo gallery of this tasting). Ron came across to me as a more European vigneron rather a winemaker from downunder. He stressed the importance of vineyard and considered that man should come after the vineyard. In other words, man should do as little as possible to influence and to preserve the uniqueness of the vineyard or terroir. He added, “You cannot add anything that already existed in the vineyard, you can only subtract them”. This statement clearly echoed what Allen Meadow’s of Burghound said early, “ The best wines are made by those that simply try and stay out of the way, to make their touch as invisible as possible.” Surely and clearly, Jasper Hill’s two wines, with names deriving from Laughton’s two daughters, Emily and Georgia, are distinctly different style of wines. Georgia is a 100% Shiraz aged in mixed of both French and American oaks (Ron has the intention to eventually age Georgia in 100% French oak barrel). Only about 20-25% of new woods are utilized to avoid over powering the fruits. Georgia came across as a more accessible, softer wine with wonderful rich fruits that is neither overbearing or off-balance. The underpinning acidity that is hidden under the lush personality ensures a well delineation of the wine. Emily, on the other hand is clearly a different wine all together (as Emily stressed “We both sisters are very different”). The wine is tightly wound, more elegant and perhaps, a touch more refine. The obvious acid profile of this wine has shown more detail and definition compared to Georgia. One could also easily spot the mid-palate intensity which clearly coming from a mature vineyard - the interestingly “sous-bois” nuance, which is more in common with wines coming from cooler climate and particularly, Bordeaux. I suggested my thoughts to Ron that it could have been due to the Cabernet Franc blend in this wine - Ron replied with a smile

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