This posting, let's focus on the wine of Northern Rhône, where you will find planty of pepper fragrance....
When northern Rhône is mentioned, name such as Chapoutier, Guigal, Paul Jaboulet-Ainé came immediate to mind. However, there are many quality conscious, wine of equal sublimely producers, due to their size and limited resources, were unable to reach out to a larger audience and compete in the same league with those giants. I hope my following efforts could somehow give those guys a chance to regain their well deserved recognition.
Côte-Rôtie (the roasted hillside) is probably the most famous area of northern Rhône. It is one of French's oldest vineyard that was first initiated by the Romans during the first century. The same terrances and steep hillside where the vines were grew have remained unchanged over the last 2,000 years. One of the world's steepest hillside vineyards are from here (about 1,000 feet in height with gradient between 30-55 degrees), which were subsequently divided into two main slopes, Côte Blonde and Côte Brune. Among this two main slopes, there are some five dozen of lieux-dits (sub-plot).
The Côte Brune, the northernmost slope that is marked by clay and iron, making wine of firmness, power, with noticeable tannin and obvious weight. The famous lieux-dit includes, Yves Cuilleron's La Viaillère, Guigal & Rostaing's La Landonne, Guigal's La Turque, JM Gérin & Cluse;-Roch's La Grandes Places, Jamet's Le Truchet.
Côte Blonde on the other hand consists of more sandy, granite soils. Wine here tend to be more fragrant, rounder and supple. Noticeably more acessible than those of Côte Brune. Lieux-dits such as La Mouline (owned solely by Guigal), Lancement (owned by Stéphane Ogier), La Garde (managed by René Rostaing) are all found here.
In Côte-Rôtie, up to 20% of Viognier is permitted to be added to the Syrah blend, which this highly aromatic white has credit for contributing part of the majestic bouquet of Côte-Rôtie. Since Viognier does not flourish in the heavy clay-and-iron-based soils of Côte Brune, almost virtually, all viognier in Côte-Rôtie is planted on the Côte Blonde side.
As controversial as Bob Parker these days, no one should diminish his early contributions for the Rhône valley. If John Livingstone-Learmonth was to be credited for his introduction of Rhône wine to the outside world, then, it was Parker who responsible for the popularity of this once unknown quality region of France.
I often think that both northern Rhône and Piedmont share many similar aspects and undergo same kind quality revolution. Besides the fact that, both regions are made predominantly from one grape variety (Syrah for northern Rhône and Nebbiolo for Piedmont), both regions share the similar background of long historical track in making wine and are both guarded with traditional winemaking practiced that oenologist and modern winemaking gadgets almost none exist.
Thanks to Parker, the iconic figures of this two areas, Angelo Gaja for Barbaresco and Marcel Guigal for Côte-Rôtie were discovered and later, flourish. Their success has inspired many of their previous grape suppliers to bottle their own and take on the same path in introducing more single-vineyard crus and aging their wines in small new French oak barrel. In addition, the increased lucrative business also saw some youngsters returning to their family winemaking root. Those open-minded, well-traveled, educated young winemakers with their continual pursued for excellent have injecting a new force in this two increasing popular wine growing regions.
In northern Rhône, there are mainly two schools of winemaking - traditionalists & modernists (similarly in Piedmont). Traditionalists aimed to preserve the tradition on how Côte-Rôtie should be made and taste like. For them, wines should be austere in their youth and achieve fullness and depth with age. They often do not destalk (or partially destemmed) and neither the wines sees any new oak, but instead, they can spend up to 30+ months in large wooden foudres. Old vine is essential for them and their wines can take up to a decade to shad away their early formidable personality. Gilles Barge, Albert Dervieux-Thaize (father-in-law of René Roasting), Marius Gentaz-Dervieux (vineyard leased to René Roasting now), Robert Jasmin, René Roasting (for me, he is not entirely traditionalists nor modernists, but somewhere between. However, his style shows little of wood influence and generally as austere as those old-school in it youth) are some fine representative from this school.
Like Angelo Gaja, Marcel Guigal pioneering in introducing small new oak aging for northern Rhône and are among the first to release his luxury single-vineyard cuvée Côte-Rôtie La Moulin, La Landonne and La Turque. Modernists like Guigal prefers to pick late in order to obtained a riper fruit. In the cuviery, they adopt the practiced of elévage bourguignon, with pre-fermentation cold soak, 100% destemming, whole cluster fermentation, pigéage, aging and malolactic in 100% new oak cask. Their Côte-Rôtie generally are profoundly rich, even at their early age, with burgundy-like texture that contrast with those edgy, rustic traditionalists. Equally, they are marked by obvious ripe fruit richness and succulent, sexy personalities.
When northern Rhône is mentioned, name such as Chapoutier, Guigal, Paul Jaboulet-Ainé came immediate to mind. However, there are many quality conscious, wine of equal sublimely producers, due to their size and limited resources, were unable to reach out to a larger audience and compete in the same league with those giants. I hope my following efforts could somehow give those guys a chance to regain their well deserved recognition.
Côte-Rôtie (the roasted hillside) is probably the most famous area of northern Rhône. It is one of French's oldest vineyard that was first initiated by the Romans during the first century. The same terrances and steep hillside where the vines were grew have remained unchanged over the last 2,000 years. One of the world's steepest hillside vineyards are from here (about 1,000 feet in height with gradient between 30-55 degrees), which were subsequently divided into two main slopes, Côte Blonde and Côte Brune. Among this two main slopes, there are some five dozen of lieux-dits (sub-plot).
The Côte Brune, the northernmost slope that is marked by clay and iron, making wine of firmness, power, with noticeable tannin and obvious weight. The famous lieux-dit includes, Yves Cuilleron's La Viaillère, Guigal & Rostaing's La Landonne, Guigal's La Turque, JM Gérin & Cluse;-Roch's La Grandes Places, Jamet's Le Truchet.
Côte Blonde on the other hand consists of more sandy, granite soils. Wine here tend to be more fragrant, rounder and supple. Noticeably more acessible than those of Côte Brune. Lieux-dits such as La Mouline (owned solely by Guigal), Lancement (owned by Stéphane Ogier), La Garde (managed by René Rostaing) are all found here.
In Côte-Rôtie, up to 20% of Viognier is permitted to be added to the Syrah blend, which this highly aromatic white has credit for contributing part of the majestic bouquet of Côte-Rôtie. Since Viognier does not flourish in the heavy clay-and-iron-based soils of Côte Brune, almost virtually, all viognier in Côte-Rôtie is planted on the Côte Blonde side.
As controversial as Bob Parker these days, no one should diminish his early contributions for the Rhône valley. If John Livingstone-Learmonth was to be credited for his introduction of Rhône wine to the outside world, then, it was Parker who responsible for the popularity of this once unknown quality region of France.
I often think that both northern Rhône and Piedmont share many similar aspects and undergo same kind quality revolution. Besides the fact that, both regions are made predominantly from one grape variety (Syrah for northern Rhône and Nebbiolo for Piedmont), both regions share the similar background of long historical track in making wine and are both guarded with traditional winemaking practiced that oenologist and modern winemaking gadgets almost none exist.
Thanks to Parker, the iconic figures of this two areas, Angelo Gaja for Barbaresco and Marcel Guigal for Côte-Rôtie were discovered and later, flourish. Their success has inspired many of their previous grape suppliers to bottle their own and take on the same path in introducing more single-vineyard crus and aging their wines in small new French oak barrel. In addition, the increased lucrative business also saw some youngsters returning to their family winemaking root. Those open-minded, well-traveled, educated young winemakers with their continual pursued for excellent have injecting a new force in this two increasing popular wine growing regions.
In northern Rhône, there are mainly two schools of winemaking - traditionalists & modernists (similarly in Piedmont). Traditionalists aimed to preserve the tradition on how Côte-Rôtie should be made and taste like. For them, wines should be austere in their youth and achieve fullness and depth with age. They often do not destalk (or partially destemmed) and neither the wines sees any new oak, but instead, they can spend up to 30+ months in large wooden foudres. Old vine is essential for them and their wines can take up to a decade to shad away their early formidable personality. Gilles Barge, Albert Dervieux-Thaize (father-in-law of René Roasting), Marius Gentaz-Dervieux (vineyard leased to René Roasting now), Robert Jasmin, René Roasting (for me, he is not entirely traditionalists nor modernists, but somewhere between. However, his style shows little of wood influence and generally as austere as those old-school in it youth) are some fine representative from this school.
Like Angelo Gaja, Marcel Guigal pioneering in introducing small new oak aging for northern Rhône and are among the first to release his luxury single-vineyard cuvée Côte-Rôtie La Moulin, La Landonne and La Turque. Modernists like Guigal prefers to pick late in order to obtained a riper fruit. In the cuviery, they adopt the practiced of elévage bourguignon, with pre-fermentation cold soak, 100% destemming, whole cluster fermentation, pigéage, aging and malolactic in 100% new oak cask. Their Côte-Rôtie generally are profoundly rich, even at their early age, with burgundy-like texture that contrast with those edgy, rustic traditionalists. Equally, they are marked by obvious ripe fruit richness and succulent, sexy personalities.
Domaine Jean-Michel Gérin
Gérin aged his Côte-Rôtie in 100% new oak casks. His top cuvée, Les Grandes Places spend up to 20 months in barrel. I have several experiences with his Champin Le Seigneur and Les Grandes Places. I witness little cold soak influenced on his cuvées and his wine can be quite tannin in their youth. However, it is more textured and denser on the palate than most traditionalist. The concentration combined well buffered tannins can somehow resemble those of Bordeaux.
Domaine Jean-Paul & Jean-Luc Jamet
Jamet's style reminded me a lot in common with Joseph Roty of Gevrey-Chambertin. Both are very intense and punchy. Concentrated and marked by dark raspberries, cassis, charred new oak-licorice, with spice intertwined with sweetness. Quite velvety but tangy at the same time. This house-style is not shy at all and clearly to me, one of the more powerful example from Côte-Rôtie. The pain grillé and spicy nose is quite a knockout experience.
Jamet's style reminded me a lot in common with Joseph Roty of Gevrey-Chambertin. Both are very intense and punchy. Concentrated and marked by dark raspberries, cassis, charred new oak-licorice, with spice intertwined with sweetness. Quite velvety but tangy at the same time. This house-style is not shy at all and clearly to me, one of the more powerful example from Côte-Rôtie. The pain grillé and spicy nose is quite a knockout experience.
Domaine Stéphane Ogier
I am proud to be the first to discovered the beautiful and sexy Côte-Rôtie made by Ogier here before everyone else start to include them in their wine list. The family owned just 2.5 hectares (slight over 6 acres) in Côte-Blonde and has a significant holding in lieu-dit, Lancement. Previously, the family were just grape growers and supply their fruit to Marcel Guigal and Max Chapoutier. Michel, father of current winemaker/owner, Stéphane Ogier, started to bottle his own and market commercially some 15 years ago. Prior joining his father, Stéphane received his education in viticulture and wine making at Beaune in Burgundy. He subsequently worked in Rhône and south Africa before returning to his family operation in 1997. The winemaking style here is quite modern, with 100% destemmed, 15-day cuvaison, 18-24 months of aging in small oak casks. However, with Ogier, his wood handling is as masterful as those of bourguignon. Rarely noticeable, but rather, came as a supporting role. You always can count on his classic "white pepper" note, which is partially contributed by the viognier's fragrant. Then, you get this subtly build sweetness (quite candied), that slowly rise to a crescendo and linger throughout the palate. It reminded me so much like Comte de Vogüé Musigny, but only this time, is from Syrah grape. Ogier sexy, suppleness Côte-Rôtie is equally vibrant and precise. Perhaps, stylish is best word to descript this charming juice. (P.S. sorry to over throw with such wavy praises on this film. Each time when I drink Ogier, I seem to discover more reasons to like them.)
I am proud to be the first to discovered the beautiful and sexy Côte-Rôtie made by Ogier here before everyone else start to include them in their wine list. The family owned just 2.5 hectares (slight over 6 acres) in Côte-Blonde and has a significant holding in lieu-dit, Lancement. Previously, the family were just grape growers and supply their fruit to Marcel Guigal and Max Chapoutier. Michel, father of current winemaker/owner, Stéphane Ogier, started to bottle his own and market commercially some 15 years ago. Prior joining his father, Stéphane received his education in viticulture and wine making at Beaune in Burgundy. He subsequently worked in Rhône and south Africa before returning to his family operation in 1997. The winemaking style here is quite modern, with 100% destemmed, 15-day cuvaison, 18-24 months of aging in small oak casks. However, with Ogier, his wood handling is as masterful as those of bourguignon. Rarely noticeable, but rather, came as a supporting role. You always can count on his classic "white pepper" note, which is partially contributed by the viognier's fragrant. Then, you get this subtly build sweetness (quite candied), that slowly rise to a crescendo and linger throughout the palate. It reminded me so much like Comte de Vogüé Musigny, but only this time, is from Syrah grape. Ogier sexy, suppleness Côte-Rôtie is equally vibrant and precise. Perhaps, stylish is best word to descript this charming juice. (P.S. sorry to over throw with such wavy praises on this film. Each time when I drink Ogier, I seem to discover more reasons to like them.)
René Roasting
Among the new generation winemaker in Côte-Rôtie. No one can claim to be more experience than René Roasting. He learned his traditional winemaking techniques from his father-in-law, Albert Dervieux, and uncle Marius Gentaz. Along with that, he also inherited some of the most prized old vines of Côte-Rôtie - La Viaillère (90-year-old), La Landonne (Marius Gentaz's 70-year-old). There are no rules in Roasting's winemaking approached. For him, man should adapt to what the nature has to offered and each year, the weather is different and thus, they yield different fruits. Roasting has a strong emphasis in cellar sanitation. His primary fermentation took place in stainless steel fermenters that attach with automatic pigéage, similar to those I have seen in Château Haut-Brion. His decision on destemming lies on the vintage and the parcel of lieux-dit. Over the years, he has slowly moved away from new oak cask and instead chosen to use the larger demi-muids, which he is convinced, are the best size of oak vassels to age his Côte-Rôtie. It you are looking for immensely profound, sexily succulent, lush Côte-Rôtie? This film is not your cup of tea. Roasting's Côte-Rôtie required age to bring out it full potential. In addition, in his winemaking, he stressed freshness, vibrancy, delineation above everything else. His wine is always elegant, with adequate natural acidity, which give purity and transparency to the wine. However, in their youth, it can be quite edgy and chewy at the same time. Given time, one will untimately be rewarded with more velvety, seductively smooth, flavorful Syrah that can only came from one planet earth - Côte-Rôtie.
Among the new generation winemaker in Côte-Rôtie. No one can claim to be more experience than René Roasting. He learned his traditional winemaking techniques from his father-in-law, Albert Dervieux, and uncle Marius Gentaz. Along with that, he also inherited some of the most prized old vines of Côte-Rôtie - La Viaillère (90-year-old), La Landonne (Marius Gentaz's 70-year-old). There are no rules in Roasting's winemaking approached. For him, man should adapt to what the nature has to offered and each year, the weather is different and thus, they yield different fruits. Roasting has a strong emphasis in cellar sanitation. His primary fermentation took place in stainless steel fermenters that attach with automatic pigéage, similar to those I have seen in Château Haut-Brion. His decision on destemming lies on the vintage and the parcel of lieux-dit. Over the years, he has slowly moved away from new oak cask and instead chosen to use the larger demi-muids, which he is convinced, are the best size of oak vassels to age his Côte-Rôtie. It you are looking for immensely profound, sexily succulent, lush Côte-Rôtie? This film is not your cup of tea. Roasting's Côte-Rôtie required age to bring out it full potential. In addition, in his winemaking, he stressed freshness, vibrancy, delineation above everything else. His wine is always elegant, with adequate natural acidity, which give purity and transparency to the wine. However, in their youth, it can be quite edgy and chewy at the same time. Given time, one will untimately be rewarded with more velvety, seductively smooth, flavorful Syrah that can only came from one planet earth - Côte-Rôtie.
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